Workbench Top Options

[Anthony Whitesell]

I'm beginning to plan my options for upgrading my workbench. My current workbench is a piece of countertop I was given and is bolted rather securely to the wall. The drawbacks to this are two fold. First, laminate coutertops have a drip edge on the front side (a slight rise as you reach the each to help keep drips on the counter and off the floor). Secondly, the backsplash uses up 1 1/2" of workbench/floor space that could be better utilized. I don't have the floor space to have the bench set where I can't walk around it or work from all sides. This is a good thing and a bad thing. The bad side, being that I can't walk around it or work from all sides. The bright side is that I don't think I need to have a very heavy workbench as it will be secured to the wall.

Luckily, I'm right handed as the bench is in a corner with walls on the right and back), placing the bench vise on the left side. I'll also be installing round bench dog holes. The bench will be a small one to fit in my small shop, about 25" deep and 60" long.

I see all these nice workbench made from heavier and more expensive woods (magohany, maple, oak, etc.). I never see any made from pine or fir (although I did see one made from Southern Yellow Pine). What would be the drawbacks to using 2x KD material for a workbench after I re-joint and re-plane it myself? Assuming there are no large drawbacks to this plan, how would you build a workbench from 2x material? I have concieved a few ideas but don't know which is best or if there's a better option. My options include:
1. 2x4, jointed, planed, and face glued.
2. 2x4 jointed, planed, and edge glued, with a removable plywood, plywood and hardboard, or MDF top
3. 2x6, jointed, planed, ripped in half making 2 2x3's, and face glued (this would be slightly thinner than option #1 and slightly cheaper)

[keith ouellette]

MDF or Luan with a formica laminite works really good. Thats what I think you have now but the shape of it needs to be changed.

the problem with the pine or 2x material is that it is soft. It qouges and dents to easily. My work table is plywood and formica. Glue comes right off the top and it doesn't nick or dent. It doesn't say WOOD WORKER lives here like a solid oak or maple bench but it works great and doesn't warp or bow over time. Even the rails and legs of my table are made out of plywood. two 3/4" thick by 6" wide pieces of common plywood laminated together to form a 1 1/2x 6" rail is pretty strong. and it stays the way it was made with little movement. I did trim it with maple because I wanted it to look more wood than plywood.

[Don Morris]

Do a "search" under workbench materials and other similar headings, you'll get a couple threads that talk about this topic.

[John Schreiber]

First suggestion. Read Christopher Schwarz's book Workbenches: From Design And Theory To Construction And Use (http://www.amazon.com/Workbenches-Design-Construction-Popular-Woodworking/dp/1558708405). It's the best out there to help you think through your workbench. He makes it clear how to use inexpensive southern yellow pine (SYP) to build a good bench.

Second, if you are going to use construction grade lumber, get the 2x10 or 2x 12 size. They are almost always better wood with fewer twists, knots and pith. At the saw mill, the best wood is used for the biggest pieces and the worst for 2x4s and 2x 6s. If you stick to the larger sizes and pick through the pile at the lumberyard, you can find very good wood at a good price.

All that being said, SYP can be a pain to work with because some of it is light and clear and other bits in the same board can be super hard, heavy and soaked in resin. But the price is right.

Many here have built benches following Schwarz's advise using SYP.

[Ken Garlock]

Hi Anthony. I also recommend Chris Swartz' work bench book. I learned more from his book than I did from the other two I have. Toward the end of the book he has a complete making and assembling of a work bench. That is worth of the cost of the book in itself.

Yes, Chris is a big advocate of SYP. However, if you want a pre-made top McMaster&Carr sell series of Boos brand restaurant/kitchen tops that make excellent bench tops.

Good luck with your new project,
Ken

[Anthony Whitesell]

Thank you for the posts, but I've read most of that in the other threads. Unfortunately, most of what I have read (other posts and Chris' book) don't apply to my particular situation. I can't make a free standing bench and around here 2x material is cheaper than SYP.

The table has to be in the corner, I know the height (based on Chris' book, threads, etc.), the length will be about ~60" or it will be too close to the doorway, the depth will be ~25" similar to the counter top that's there now. My only issue is what to actually make the top out of. I was thinking of combining a few of the ideas posted in this thread. Use a 2x8 (maybe 2x10) and rip it into thirds and face glue it together, apply a formica laminate to a piece of 1/2" MDF, and screw the MDF to the base from below making the top will be replacable. To make the dog holes, I was going to drill the from the bottom. First a 1" diameter hole 1/4" deep, then with the router outfitted with a 1"OD guide bushing and a 3/4" spiral bit to drill the rest of the hole. The 1" shoulder in the bottom of the bench dog hole will allow be to re-drill the 3/4" dog holes in the top when it is replaced later on.

Any other do's or don'ts are greatly appreciated,

[Tom Gojmerac]

I used left over engineered Brazilian Cherry flooring over recycled plywood from a bookshelf I tore out. Cost was little to nothing and the material is very durable and glue drips etc. are easily cleaned.
I also have a workbench with a pre made laminate top, and its up against a wall where the backsplash keeps small items from falling off the backside

[Anthony Whitesell]

Hmmm. :rolleyes: I saw laminate flooring remnants on sale some where recently.

[Jeff Dege]

I don't know exactly how well it's going to work, yet. but I'm in the process of building a bench using two layers of 3/4" MDF and and a 3/4" panel of edge-glued hardwood one of my local home centers cells for table construction. My plan is to laminate the two sheets of MDF, then edge them with 1/2" hardwood, then to laminate the hardwood panel to the set - so that the top spans the hardwood edging of the MDF layers.

[Jim Becker]

Any work surface I would build right now would be a double or triple layer of 3/4" MDF with a replaceable 1/4" hardboard "topper". While I love the idea of the "art" around benchtop construction, I'd rather put more energy into my furniture/cabinetry projects at this point since shop time is so precious. And these "modern" materials, if properly supported can be dead flat and stay that way over time while having limited seasonal movement.

[Brad Shipton]

The main disadvantage to 2"x_ stock is the moisture content. #1/#2 can be up to 19% moisture content. If you have time to dry it, it will work. I leave my scrap bits of 2x_ stock in the basement and usually plane/joint it once it is dry. Works fine, but a 2x4 will typically only yield about a 1"x3" piece by the time I am done fixing the kinks. Lots of time and waste, but it sure is cheap. Some of the crap being sold as framing lumber now is pretty awful.

As far as durability goes it sure is not the best. I used a spruce glulam for my top and after two years now it does have quite a few gouges. It still does the job just fine. A arborite skin will be great for glue, but will not improve the durability much.

Brad

[Chris Padilla]

I don't know exactly how well it's going to work, yet. but I'm in the process of building a bench using two layers of 3/4" MDF and and a 3/4" panel of edge-glued hardwood one of my local home centers cells for table construction. My plan is to laminate the two sheets of MDF, then edge them with 1/2" hardwood, then to laminate the hardwood panel to the set - so that the top spans the hardwood edging of the MDF layers.

I have plans along that line as well, Jeff, but plan to put a maple top but then again, my workbench is constantly changing and never starting so....:o

[Jonathan Spool]

Thank you for the posts, but I've read most of that in the other threads. Unfortunately, most of what I have read (other posts and Chris' book) don't apply to my particular situation. I can't make a free standing bench and around here 2x material is cheaper than SYP.

The table has to be in the corner, I know the height (based on Chris' book, threads, etc.), the length will be about ~60" or it will be too close to the doorway, the depth will be ~25" similar to the counter top that's there now. My only issue is what to actually make the top out of. I was thinking of combining a few of the ideas posted in this thread. Use a 2x8 (maybe 2x10) and rip it into thirds and face glue it together, apply a formica laminate to a piece of 1/2" MDF, and screw the MDF to the base from below making the top will be replacable. To make the dog holes, I was going to drill the from the bottom. First a 1" diameter hole 1/4" deep, then with the router outfitted with a 1"OD guide bushing and a 3/4" spiral bit to drill the rest of the hole. The 1" shoulder in the bottom of the bench dog hole will allow be to re-drill the 3/4" dog holes in the top when it is replaced later on.

Any other do's or don'ts are greatly appreciated,


Anthony,
Your idea to have a replaceable top, and using 1" shoulder holes in the bottom as a guide to redrill 3/4" benchdog holes later has merit. However, I would want the top to be at least 3/4" thick to give better support to whatever you use in benchdog holes.

Its good to think out of the box. I am recently thinking that an awful lot of what we consider necessary for workbench construction is based upon very old material limitations. Modern materials can provide us with a superior bench, albeit the bench will lack that classic character we all love.

[Rick Potter]

Anthony,

I vote for two layers of particle board (harder than MDF), banded with a hardwood of your choice to protect the edges. Use an oil finish or poly to protect the PB against moisture, and then enjoy. When it gets too beat up, reverse the top layer and start over.

You can beat the daylights out of this and it will stay flat, as long as you don't get it wet.

Rick Potter

[Ken Higginbotham]

Anthony,

I vote for two layers of particle board (harder than MDF), banded with a hardwood of your choice to protect the edges. Use an oil finish or poly to protect the PB against moisture, and then enjoy. When it gets too beat up, reverse the top layer and start over.

You can beat the daylights out of this and it will stay flat, as long as you don't get it wet.

Rick Potter

The table I just built has a drop in 3/4 pc of pb with three coats of poly. So far so good...

[phil harold]

I use solid core doors for benchtops

I pick them up at the Habitat Restore or the bull pen at the lumber yard

You can cut them to any size and then add 3/4" hardwood edge to them

Makes a fast durable work surface for little money