Upgrade G1538 band saw or buy new

[Josh Rudolph]

I have a Grizzly 16” Band saw G1538 that I bought used about 4 years ago. It is an early 90’s saw and has 1 ½ HP motor. It has served me well for what I have been doing with it. However I am hoping to get into more detail oriented work and plan on using some more expensive wood. My #1 reason for the change is to begin resawing.

I am all for upgrading when it makes sense, but I am worried with everything I would like to do, it may not make sense by the time I invest time and money into the saw. I do not use the saw to make a living, so time is of a little less importance than the money. However it is time working on a machine rather than making something.

The guides on the current saw are the weak point of the saw. If I were to keep the saw, I would plan on upgrading with a set of Carter Guides. The set for this saw is $179. The second thing would be to “beef up” the table mounting mechanism. The table comes out of alignment more than it should and I have to reset it more than I would hope. I am not sure of what it will take to better stabilize the table. I do have access to a Mill and Lathe and have the option of making some things myself.

My thoughts are to sell it and buy a new band saw. Some of the newer one’s out today appear to be very nicely built.

Keep the saw and upgrade:
1) replace guides
2) beef up table mount mechanism
3) Add brushes to clean the wheels
4) Add some stabilizing braces for the wheel covers (they rattle when the saw is in use)
5) Possibly add a quick tension lever

Or Buy New

Anyone have this saw that has done any of these things?

What would you do?

Thanks,
Josh

[John Bailey]

I've never used this saw, but the ones I've seen looked pretty good to me. Having said that, by the time you've paid for the changes you're proposing, I'd be looking at one of the Grizzly 17" models. They have all the features you're looking at adding without a whole lot more cost, and aggrivation.

John

[Andrew Joiner]

Hi Josh,
Any saw with a cast iron frame over 14" is getting rare. Some say a cast iron frame is better, but I can't verify it.
Does your saw have cast iron wheels? If so that's a plus.

I had an old delta 14" with 4 knobs to hold the doors on. That alone was a pain. It made changing blades more of a chore.

You might want to keep it set for curves and buy a saw for resawing only.

[Josh Rudolph]

Wheels are aluminum die-cast. Not sure if that is a plus or not.

This saw has 4 knobs which is a pain, that is also where the rattle comes from that drives me crazy. :eek:

I have thought about keeping it as a second also, but would still likely want to do some of the upgrades to make it a better machine. So I I would be out the cost of a new one and then at least some of the upgrade cost.

I am assuming the cast iron frame provides better rigidity?

[Rod Sheridan]

Wheels are aluminum die-cast. Not sure if that is a plus or not.

This saw has 4 knobs which is a pain, that is also where the rattle comes from that drives me crazy. :eek:


I am assuming the cast iron frame provides better rigidity?

Hi Josh, the rattle isn't caused by knobs, the rattle is caused by a vibration in the saw.

Out of round or unbalanced pulleys, drive wheels, poor quality v belts or unbalanced motor are the most likely suspects.

If you determine what's causing the problem, you may be able to fix it.

Welded steel bandsaws are great, they're stronger per pound than the cast iron machines, and work very well.

In my opinion the cast aluminum wheels are a negative.

If you purchase a Euro saw, you won't be dissapointed.

The issue of repair/replace is always a personal decision, however I would opt for replace with a higher quality/greater capacity machine.

Regards, Rod.

[Andrew Joiner]

This saw has 4 knobs which is a pain, that is also where the rattle comes from that drives me crazy. :eek:

I have thought about keeping it as a second also, but would still likely want to do some of the upgrades to make it a better machine. So I I would be out the cost of a new one and then at least some of the upgrade cost.


If it was me I'd keep a 1/4" blade in the old saw for curve cuts and pad the area that rattles. Buy a new saw and leave a wide blade in it.
Less changing blades and guide fiddling.

[Josh Rudolph]

The rattle comes from the flimsy sheet metal covers used for covering the wheels. They have warped and do not sit/lay flat like they should. So any excess vibration causes them to rattle.

It's like that rattle you hear in your vehicle, some times it is there, some times it isn't. It just annoys you when it is there.

Rod...I am leaning towards getting the new saw, it will just depend on my finances after I buy the cyclone (still deciding on that one also).

Do most people buy larger machines and leave them dedicated to one purpose or do they use them for multiple functions?

[Rod Sheridan]

Rod...I am leaning towards getting the new saw, it will just depend on my finances after I buy the cyclone (still deciding on that one also).

Do most people buy larger machines and leave them dedicated to one purpose or do they use them for multiple functions?


Hi Josh, I purchased a General International 17" bandsaw for my wife a few years ago. It mostly is used for roughing bowl blanks, ripping rough stock prior to jointing/planing and resawing.

I use 1/4" to 3/4" blades depending upon the job, however a 3/8" blade is normally left in the saw as it's an OK compromise for the occasional job.

If I were to replace it, I probably would purchase a Minimax machine.

Good luck with the cyclone, I've owned an Oneida for many years, best purchase I ever made.

Regards, Rod.

[Montgomery Scott]

After years of using an old Rockwell 14" saw like yours when it was time to upgrade I knew I only wanted to buy one saw. After due diligence in researching saws I ended up buying the latest design of the MM16.

The fence is rather rudimentary and the miter fence seems to be an afterthought. There have been a few times I found the 16" resaw height to be limiting, but you'd have to go to a much bigger saw to get more. Overall I'm very satisfied with the saw and would buy it again. Just don't expect to use it with very narrow blades.

Consider that you give up a week's pay to get a lifetime of satisfying work out of the machine. It's well worth it IMO.

[David Winer]

After years of using an old Rockwell 14" saw like yours when it was time to upgrade I knew I only wanted to buy one saw. After due diligence in researching saws I ended up buying the latest design of the MM16.

The fence is rather rudimentary and the miter fence seems to be an afterthought. There have been a few times I found the 16" resaw height to be limiting, but you'd have to go to a much bigger saw to get more. Overall I'm very satisfied with the saw and would buy it again. Just don't expect to use it with very narrow blades.

Consider that you give up a week's pay to get a lifetime of satisfying work out of the machine. It's well worth it IMO.

I don't understand Montgomery's caveat about narrow blades. I have used narrow and wide without difficulties. I did snap a narrow blade in use once but that was operator error due to too much tension.

If your new larger band saw is for resawing, do consider a Highland "Wood Slicer" wide blade.

[Josh Rudolph]

I would love MM16, but finances won't allow for that right now. If I were to save and buy that, I would likely save a little more and get my Sawstop on my list. :D

As of right now I am planning on buying a new one and probably keeping the old one for curves and such.

From quickly glancing around, the 17"-19" Grizzly's seem to be getting good reviews. I would also consider a Steel City or Jet of the same size. Though I would have to likely wait a little for them.

Grizzly is giving free shipping on a lot of machines and then I could get 9% cashback. Really helps the pocketbook.

Anyone have any experience with the Grizzly, Steel City or Jet's in the 17"-19" range?

Thanks for all the help and advice guys...I learn so much from this forum.

Josh