How to cut opening for router plate?

[keith ouellette]

I can't remember how I did my last one and even if I could remember I want it to be better this time.

I have a 9" by 12" phenolic plate and a 3/4" mdf top covered with formica.

I have a flush trim bit with the bearing at the top but that sonly useful if I had a second router plate to trace.

[Myk Rian]

Lay the insert where you want it. Take 1 by strips and double-backed tape them to the table next to the edges of the insert plate. Tape another piece of 1 by in the center for the router to ride on. Rout out 3/8" or whatever you need for the plate thickness, leaving room for leveling screws. Use a 1/2" bit with top bearing. When finished, use a jig saw to remove the center portion, leaving the lip.

[Joe Scharle]

Make a frame that fits snuggly around the insert. Double tape it to the table top where you want the opening. Rout a groove around the inside of your frame a little deeper than the insert is thick (allows some adjustment). Use at least a 1/2" top bearing bit. Jig saw the interior waste leaving the routed shelf.

[Dewey Torres]

Myk got you the way I would/have done it. It also helps if you carefully chose the size router bit to match the corner radius of your router plate.

[Myk Rian]

Myk got you the way I would/have done it. It also helps if you carefully chose the size router bit to match the corner radius of your router plate.
Most all I've seen are 1/2". The Rousseau plate has an available template for about $20 or so. Comes with a 1/2" bit and bushing to make it real easy.

[keith ouellette]

I said it backwards. My flush trim bi has the bearing at the bottom, or opposite the shank.

Does that mean I need to buy a different flush trim?

[Jamie Buxton]

I said it backwards. My flush trim bi has the bearing at the bottom, or opposite the shank.

Does that mean I need to buy a different flush trim?

If the template is on the same face of workpiece as the router, yes, you need a flush-trim bit with the bearing at the shank end. However, if you can put your template on the other face, your existing bit will work. A nice thing about putting the template on the bottom face and the router on the top face is that you can screw the template to the workpiece, with no worries about whether the double-stick tape is going to let go.

[Jim O'Dell]

I said it backwards. My flush trim bi has the bearing at the bottom, or opposite the shank.

Does that mean I need to buy a different flush trim?

Yes. ;)

The Woodpecker plates use a 5/8" radius on the corners, so uses a 5/8" bit. I got one a few years ago at one of the woodworking shows I went to. Jesada. Seems it was about 16.00. Jim.

[Gary Kvasnicka]

Keith,
You will find a pattern bit like this very useful for lots of applications.
https://www.grizzly.com/images/pics/jpeg288/c/c1306_det2.jpg
http://www.grizzly.com/products/C1306/images/2

[Dave Falkenstein]

...However, if you can put your template on the other face, your existing bit will work. A nice thing about putting the template on the bottom face and the router on the top face is that you can screw the template to the workpiece, with no worries about whether the double-stick tape is going to let go.

Ummm - I cannot visualize how to cut a rabbet (lip) for the plate to sit in if you use a bit with the bearing at the bottom (opposite the shank) of the bit, and a template on the bottom surface. You would have to cut the hole first, then trim the hole precisely smaller than the plate using a template, and then use the edge of the hole as the template to cut the rabbet from the top. It would be easier and the results would be better to buy a top-bearing bit (like Gary's photo) of the correct diameter.

[Heather Thompson]

What Jim O'Dell said, Woodpeckers sells a 5/8" template bit (24.00 Whiteside), they also sell a template but that is not needed. When I did my first one I did a test in a scrap piece of MDF to make sure I was not going to bugger the real deal. ;)

Heather

[Stephen Edwards]

Keith,
You will find a pattern bit like this very useful for lots of applications.
https://www.grizzly.com/images/pics/jpeg288/c/c1306_det2.jpg
http://www.grizzly.com/products/C1306/images/2

I agree, very useful bit. I would recommend that you get one with as long a cutting edge as you can afford, that is the same radius as the corners of your plate. MLCS has a nice selection of decent bits at affordable prices.

If you do get a longer bit, you might have to use taller pieces of wood for the pattern.

[Matt Day]

I just did this recently and it's a pain! remember that if you use a template bit like is above (with the bearing on the shank side), you may need to raise your template up to match the length of the bit. In other words, if the cutting length is 1 1/2" and your template is 1/2" plywood, you'll need to raise up your template by about 3/4" so your bit doesn't cut all the way through your mdf top.

Since I didn't want to spend the money on a 3/4" bit (the radius of my router plate) with the bearing at the shank end, I used the only bit I have with bearing at the shank end. this bit is about 1" diameter and 1 1/2" cutting length. So what I did was make a template with the radius already on it. I traced the plate onto a scap piece of mdf, I cut the straight lengths on the table saw with plunge cuts, then rough cut the radiuses with a jigsaw and finished them off with a 1 1/2" diameter sander on the drill press.

After making the template, I put 3/4" shims (scap mdf) under the template to account for the length of my router bit. Then simply routed the 3/8" (heavy to account for the height adjustment screws) deep groove. Then I used a jigsaw the cut out the excess.

It ended up working pretty good but it took me some time to do but I'm happy with the results. And I'll keep the template so I can do it quicker in the future, after my top wears out and I want to replace it.

[Anthony Whitesell]

This is a link to a how-to of the method I used to cut the opening for a Rousseau plate

http://www.woodmagazine.com/dgroups/index.jsp?plckForumPage=ForumDiscussion&plckDiscussionId=Cat%3a8068d542-84e7-4789-9133-cb8743c46c54Forum%3a8fe7d6c2-8c46-4913-9d3a-73930f41a8d6Discussion%3a2dd1f1c7-59d1-4b65-b618-aa23b6ba9cdd

Pictures and all.

I also like the idea of cutting it from the bottom so the template can be screwed down instead of taped. Thanks.