**** or SharkGuard

[Dustin Powers]

So just this weekend I picked up a very lightly used Grizzly G0444Z. I've got to wire up a 220 outlet before I can start using it. Does anyone have a recommendation about the best safety upgrade I could make.
I'm looking at either the SharkGuard:
leestyron.com/gallery.php

or

the **** a bolt on riving knife that is aftermarket:
WalnutAcreWoodworking.com

[Mike OMelia]

What did you mean to say that got filtered? ****? I am not sure why that gets filtered, but there may be liability issues here with maker of that tool... you should PM the mods.

[Dustin Powers]

Ok I meant Bolt On Riving Knife, the acronym for that is being blocked for some reason.

[John Jendro]

I'm confused are we not allowed to talk about the **** on here?

I would go with the Shark guard if you want to be able to collect dust at the blade.

John

[Dustin Powers]

I am buying a dust collector so the dust collection is leading me to the SharkGuard. I've barely used a tablesaw and that was 10 years ago. What types of cuts will the Sharkguard not work with, do you have to remove when doing a dado?

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi, the Shark guard cannot be used for non through cuts so for me that makes it a non starter.

I added an Excalibur overarm guard and Merlin splitter to my saw, and I am extremely pleased with both.

I suggest that you look at overam guards, and various removable splitters or riving knives.

You can also make your own overarm guard if you're handy with simple metal fabrication.

The important thing is to use a guard at all times. If you can't use a guard, you need a different design of guard, or you need to use a different piece of machinery to do what you are attempting.

The tablesaw isn't a shaper, shapers are ideal for rebates and grooving, and of course have proper guards for that sort of operation.

There is a tendancy in NA to think that the tablesaw is an all purpose machine, however as you've found, it's only designed by the manufacturer to perform through sawing cuts. That's why the guards that come with the TS don't allow dadoe, rebate or grooving operations.

Enjoy your saw, use your guards........Rod.

[Dustin Powers]

I'm having trouble finding the Excalibur Blade Guard can you point me in the right direction?

[Chris Rosenberger]

Excalibur is now part of General International.

http://www.general.ca/excalibur/pagemach/ang/50_EXBC.html

[Dave Falkenstein]

I also like the Excalibur overarm guard, because you can use the guard on virtually every cut. I use a Biesemeyer removeable splitter, which must be removed for non-through cuts. I replaced the guard cover on my Excalibur with the Shark Guard cover, and get better visibility.

[Bill White]

You're gonna love your 0444Z. Bought mine from a Creeker who really set it up properly. I do not have an above the table collector, just the standard splitter and guard.
Bill

[Prashun Patel]

The last issue of Shopnotes had plans for a dust collecting blade guard that mounts to an auxiliary rip fence.

[Edward Warren]

I have read up on DCs extensively over the last year, but have little experience of my own. I am still finishing my shop (one bay of a 3-car garage) and DC set-up which includes a sharkguard with a 4" port. I am amazed at how dustless the cuts are. I've modified my Grizzly 2hp DC a bit, as well as my Steel City TS. The TS now has a 5" port on the cabinet combined with the 4" shark guard.

As I said, I am still building my shop, and have not even sealed all my joints yet. Not only is there virtually no dust whatsoever, but this afternoon a 1.5" wide piece of 3/4 ply that was only about 2" long went right up the stack instead of out the back of the cut. I was amazed to hear the racket in the DC (a single-stage), but impressed with the power sucking a piece that big up the 2' to the horizontal run.

Next is a Thien baffle in the DC separator once I finalize my piping runs.

Very impressed with the Sharkguard.

[John Stevens]

[QUOTE=John Jendro;1082382]I'm confused are we not allowed to talk about the **** on here?/QUOTE]

Well heck, we probably cant say **** either, without it getting filtered. Don't they want us to have any fun?

Regards,

John

[James Hart]

I'm confused are we not allowed to talk about the **** on here?

I would go with the Shark guard if you want to be able to collect dust at the blade.

John

Look it up at urbandictionary.com. Learn something new every day.

[Mike OMelia]

Well, I went to the urbandictionary page and it took getting to the second page to find anything mildy offensive... and that was a stretch. No, I have reason to believe that **** has more to do with advertising and liability then any of that. This is ****ing silly.

Mike

[Keith Outten]

I submit it isn't silly at all. When the majority of the Members here decided that they wanted free access and we were forced to convert to the current advertising based model there had to be some changes. We cannot allow anyone to advertise here for free, if we do there won't be any paid advertising, hence there will be no free access.

Many months ago there were a couple of threads that were started to advertise the product in question. There was considerable dissent from the owner of the product so the ban was put into place.

You may have noticed that lately we have been getting a bit more conservative about links we find in public forums here. As our advertising has been decreasing do to the bad economy the efforts of some to obtain free exposure has increased. This is why we have been tightening up lately, if we don't then free access for woodworkers will suffer.

Ya can't have it both ways folks, if you want free access then somebody else has to pay the bills.
.

[Jim Kirkpatrick]

I also like the Excalibur overarm guard, because you can use the guard on virtually every cut. I use a Biesemeyer removeable splitter, which must be removed for non-through cuts. I replaced the guard cover on my Excalibur with the Shark Guard cover, and get better visibility.
Dave, I have the excalibur guard and am unhappy with the cover. Can you post some pictures of your excalibur with the shark guard cover? Did you have to modify it? Thanks

[Mike OMelia]

I was trying to be funny... poor attempt.;) No offense intended and I am sorry if it was taking that way.

I said I suspected it had to do with advertising because at one point that **** fellow contacted me off list about his item and told me (through a third party) he was not welcome here (or something to that effect).

I agree with you Kieth. Free advertising hurts and is not fair. I would also suggest that if a potential buyer of his device must sign a liability waiver (and one does), then one should shy away from that.

Now, having said all of this, I wish the major manufacturers would come out with riving blade kits.

Mike

[Matt Meiser]

I haven't seen either in person but I'd choose the SharkGuard. It appears to be a well-refined product where the **** looks more homemade and seems to rapidly be evolving to overcome issues and I saw a recent post where he was making previous buyers pay for the fix. I'm really unimpressed with the attachment method (hose clamps) especially considering how close it mounts to the arbor and blade.

I have a Biesemeyer overarm guard and the Delta removable splitter. It works well enough, but has occasionally gotten in the way of my saw-mounted router table. Replacing it is low on my list, but I've occasionally been checking out these two options.

[Mike OMelia]

Hose clamps? Are ya serious?:eek: No wonder there is a liability waiver. No way would I put a hunk of loose metal near a saw blade.

BTW, I second the positive affirmations on the shark gaurd... don't have one, but it looks well built. AFAIK, no signed liability waiver either.

[Edward Warren]

Here are some photos of my Sharkguard install/DC mods.

You can see the Modified DC in the closet in the background. I've modified it by making the blower mount directly underneath the separator. This gives me a small enough footprint for it to slide into the closet, and still accommodate shelves for the kids' junk. It also help to make a straight shot with 6" ducting to the impeller. Along the wall behind the DP and BS I built a "manifold" with blastgates for the other machines...yet to be completed. It's all really a work in progress that I have only tried to finish in earnest over the last two months – so please excuse the mess.

[Mike OMelia]

Would someone be kind enough to remind my why the shark is better than say the standard splitter/guard/palws that came with my Jet Super Saw? DC is done from the bottom of the saw, btw. That would be one feature I do not believe I would need.

Mike

[Chris Padilla]

Under the table collection is best done with a shroud in place--like the SawStop and Powermatic 2000 table saws have however one really needs both...even with a shroud.

The Sharkguard allows a 4" DC pipe which is quite a bit of airflow potential for above the table collection.

[Edward Warren]

Most dust is definitely down in the cabinet, but there is still quite a bit up top too without the Sharkguard exhaust operating. I am surprised at how well it works considering it's fairly open on the back-side. It comes with a second taller riving knife for thicker cuts. I don't remember if I paid extra for that or not. Also, I did wait a long time for it. I was told there would be a wait when I placed my order, and I wasn't charged until it was completed.

The 4" pipe on the sharkguard was an option when I got mine. I don't remember what the standard size is, but I didn't want a reducer on the line.

I am still re-working inside my saw's cabinet to make it work better as per the Bill Pentz site's recommendation. It is the Pentz site that promted me to put the 5" on the cabinet and the 4" on the guard.

One problem I do have that I didn't think would be an issue is that boards get sucked down to the table. Perhaps I need to make another duct in the cabinet to provide some make-up air to keep it all flowing properly.

[John Jendro]

I submit it isn't silly at all. When the majority of the Members here decided that they wanted free access and we were forced to convert to the current advertising based model there had to be some changes. We cannot allow anyone to advertise here for free, if we do there won't be any paid advertising, hence there will be no free access.

Many months ago there were a couple of threads that were started to advertise the product in question. There was considerable dissent from the owner of the product so the ban was put into place.

You may have noticed that lately we have been getting a bit more conservative about links we find in public forums here. As our advertising has been decreasing do to the bad economy the efforts of some to obtain free exposure has increased. This is why we have been tightening up lately, if we don't then free access for woodworkers will suffer.

Ya can't have it both ways folks, if you want free access then somebody else has to pay the bills.
.


Makes sense to me, thanks for clearing that up Keith.

John

[Chris Padilla]

One problem I do have that I didn't think would be an issue is that boards get sucked down to the table. Perhaps I need to make another duct in the cabinet to provide some make-up air to keep it all flowing properly.

Ed,

I'm confused here...*where* do boards get sucked down? I am assuming you have a ZCI (zero clearance insert) around the blade?

Maybe you've sealed up your saw a bit too tight?

[Edward Warren]

Actually I don't have a zero clearance insert in at the moment, just the stock one. It acts like the boards get hung up between the fence and the blade/riving knife, but it only happens when the DC is switched on. Mind you, it's not locking the board down, just feels like too much "drag" if you know what I mean.

[Monte Milanuk]

Hi, the Shark guard cannot be used for non through cuts so for me that makes it a non starter.


Yes, it can. I have one on my BT3100, and the top portion where it holds the blade guard clamps to the riving knive - and is removable in fairly short order.

[Edward Warren]

My SG was supplied with a ratcheting/quick release lever to replace the bolt that holds the riving knife in place. That too makes it really easy to switch things around as needed without the need for tools, just like removing the shroud if needed.

Of course this can be done without the SG too.

[Mike OMelia]

Under the table collection is best done with a shroud in place--like the SawStop and Powermatic 2000 table saws have however one really needs both...even with a shroud.

The Sharkguard allows a 4" DC pipe which is quite a bit of airflow potential for above the table collection.

Right, I have a shroud underneath and a 4" pipe. So is that it? DC?

mike

[Maurice Ungaro]

Just got my Shark (Thanks LEE!), and love it. I've done a lot of ripping and hate the amount of dust thrown by the blade as it exits the workpiece. The Shark takes care of that with a 4" hose attached to my DC. The splitter is also a really nice design, and VERY quick to remove/change out.

[Dave Lewis]

I have Sharkguard on a Unisaw w/ Unifence:

hooked up to a cyclone via the 4" hood and overhead hose
hood is easily removable
paws are removable
long wait for product ~ 3-5 months last year; maybe quicker now.
Works good for my ripping and cross-cuts.