Bed Rail Hardware Question

[Edward Garrett]

I am working on building a loft bed for my daughter. I am making each rail out of 2 pieces of poplar 3/4" thick x 6" wide x 78" long laminated together to make each rail 1 1/2" thick each. I plan to use this hardware to attached the rails to the frame:
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?Offerings_ID=10

This is my firt bed, and I have few questions I was hoping to get some help with...

#1 Because the rails will be laminated, when I attach the harware to the end of rail (by screwing in to the end grain) I will essentially be screwing into the center of the lamination where the boards are glued together...is this a concern? (I am using Titebond III wood glue).

#2 Any suggestions on how to make the mortise in the end of the rail to receive the hardware?

Thanks!

[Chuck Hayes]

Edward;

I just used these on a bed. You are best to use a cross dowel on the rails so the screws have some long grain to bite into. I put 3 dowels in from the back side of the rail, not going all the way thru, but I have seen a single dowel from the bottom of the rail as well.

I used a straight bit in a router with an edge guide to create the mortise in the rail. I also attached a scrap piece of lumber to the rails with stops so I did not get too close to the top and bottom edges. Then clean up the morise with a chisel.

Chuck

[Jamie Buxton]

Chuck's suggestion of a cross dowel is an excellent one.

You can use a wood dowel, glued in, or a metal dowel like http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=367&filter=sex%20bolts. These take 1/4-20 threads, so you could use standard flathead machine screws instead of the ones shown on the page.

[David DeCristoforo]

I have used these many times and they work very well. The suggestion to use dowels to increase the holding power of the screws is good. But there is one other "mod" I have made which is to take the piece with the hooks to a welding shop and have them weld the hooks to the plate (on the back side). The hooks are just peened over where they come through the plate and they can get loose over time. It just takes a few seconds to weld them and then they will be solid and tight forever

[Dave Verstraete]

Edward
Here are a few pics of the jig I used to mortise for similar Woodcraft hardware.

I used the jig without the rail on it to do the bottom board and mounted the rail on it to do the ends of the bed rails.

[Edward Garrett]

Once again gents, you have given me great guidance and avdice....THANK YOU!!

[Mike Circo]

I may be too late to the party, but I'd like to offer an entirely different viewpoint.

I used a set of hardware from VanDykes (www.vandykes.com)
http://www.vandykes.com/product/02284211/ to attach the side rails. This set utilizes a wedge shaped design that has two nice features. First it continuously tightens itself as weight is applied to the bed. This assures no squeaks or loosening. Also they are easy and nearly foolproof to install. I got their jig and the installation took all of 20 minutes for all four corners. (I highly advise doing a test bed out of 2x4s and scrap to get a feel of how they work).

Most important for your situation, they are surface mounted on the rails and posts, so no special mortises need to be cut. The rail pieces attach to the inside face of the rail and avoid the issue of screwing into the weaker end grain. I highly recommend these connectors. The bed is absolutely rock solid, no flex at all, even when tugging on the tall headboard. However, they came with 3/4 inch long square drive screws that I felt were too short. I got some longer screws from McFeelys to be sure they remained tight. Don't use drywall screws, they are too brittle for such a critical use.

After 8 years the bed is rock solid.
(No connection with either vendor, Just a satisified customer)

[Edward Garrett]

Thanks Mike, you make a good argument, and I am seriouly considering these....my only concern is thet they will show after th bed is assembled. Have you had any issu with them interferring with the mattress? How far do they protrude once installed?

Thanks faking the time to post the info....

[Mike Circo]

They lay pretty flat... Actually very flat. Most mattresses won't get anywhere near them. You can sort of see them when looking straight down from above, but frankly I don't expect many people to look from that angle.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3594/3361253697_803572903f.jpg?v=0

(Excuse the dust, I'm not much of a housekeeper :o )

[Chris Kennedy]

I used these from Lee Valley http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.aspx?c=2&p=40444&cat=3,40842,41269&ap=1

Pretty much equivalent to what Mike suggested. They are rock solid, and probably have a tad smaller profile (but again -- I don't expect people to be looking straight down at it).

Cheers,

Chris