Fix infill chip breaker

[Ian Coop]

Morning all, I need to check with those of you with experience working with cast steel. I was given a beautiful Spiers rosewood infill plane a while back. In between projects I decided to flatten and sharpen the blade. The problem is that the chip breaker seems bent, leaving almost a 1/16th gap along one side of the iron. As well, the original screw and the threaded hole seem at an angle to the face of the breaker and iron. When tightened, the screw only seats on one half of its circumference. I would appreciate any advice about how to proceed to straighten out the breaker. Does the hole need to be redrilled and tapped again and a new screw found? Thank you for your help.

Ian

[Ian Coop]

A couple of shots of the smoother for those who like such things.

Ian

[Phillip Pattee]

Ian,
Thanks for the pics, we do like that around here. Beautiful plane. I have no idea how to properly fix your chip breaker, so I will not even offer a suggestion or speculation. But, I am confident that you have come to the right place to find out.:)

[David Keller NC]

Ian - You've a couple of routes to fixing this problem. One solution (perhaps the easiest from a technical sense, but the most elbow grease) is to grind the arris on the cap iron out so that it mates across the width of the iron.

One thing to check is if the iron itself is flat along the back. If it's not, then you may perhaps want to purchase a replacement Hock infill iron from The Best Things (to my knowledge, they're the only ones that carry the Hock infill replacement blades).

Regarding re-drilling and re-tapping the cap iron screw. While theoretically possible, it will be exceedingly difficult to get a new, proper square-head cap iron screw - they aren't made anymore. You could perhaps get someone like Johnny Kleso (on SMC) to make you a new cap iron screw.

Perhaps the best solution is if you know someone that's an antique tool dealer. Many of these dealers buy "box lots" of irons at auctions, and might let you pick through their stash to find an antique iron/cap iron combination that will fit your plane. If the iron/cap iron you have is original to the plane, this may be the best solution, as it preserves the value of the plane as a collector's piece.

[Ian Coop]

Thanks David, the iron and cap are indeed original to the plane. The screw would be very hard to find around where I live. I don't mind the elbow grease part as I flattened the back of the iron by hand over a period of several days using only waterstones. I guess it will be slow work, put possible to reshape the cap iron to match the plane iron when the screw is tightened. This was my first inclination, however, I wanted to make sure I wasn't missing anything easier to do. Oh well, back to the stones...thanks again.

Ian

[David Keller NC]

Ian - If you're careful about it, you can do the necessary metal removal on a belt sander. What I'd suggest is to remove a little metal from the side that mates, re-assemble and check, remove a little more, etc... until you've a good fit.

However, the chipbreakers on infill planes aren't usually hardened steel, so you should be able to cut it with a file, which is worlds faster than waterstones and even a belt sander.

By the way - what I meant by "original" is a little more nuanced than just "the iron and cap iron that came with the plane". Most Spiers planes from earlier vintages have fitting numbers stamped on the infill, the iron, and the cap iron. If these numbers match, you most likely have the original blade and cap iron, which is a rare thing in a Speirs. If they don't, then you've a "period replacement", which considerably lowers the value of the plane to a collector (and considerably raises the value as a user, as you're not "using up" anything rare or irreplaceable).

Later Spiers planes (the ones with the script-style logo on the lever cap) generally did not have fitting numbers, though that's not universally true.

[Ian Coop]

Thank you David for the information. I might try the slow bench grinder to establish the edge closer to parallel with the iron's back, then sneak up on a nice fit by hand.

The plane has a squarish stamped logo, not the script kind. The infill is stamped with a number, however, the cap iron and blade are not original. Ibbotson and Sorbey. I am not a collector and intend to care for the tool properly, but use it well. I like the plane alot because of the beautiful infill and the nice tight mouth. Not to mention that there is no damage to the body or tote whatsoever, which I understand can be a problem with the old infill planes. Blame Garrett Hack and his book on planes! As well as having handled some of Sauer and Steiner infills at local tool shows - incredible.

Anyway, after I get the cap iron fitted, I'll post some pictures of the plane in action against my faithful Veritas bevel-up smoother. Thank you again for your interest and time. Regards.

Ian

[george wilson]

It was common in the old days for a workman to have 3 or 4 plane irons for a plane. In the morning he would sharpen them up,and not have to be interrupted sharpening blades the rest of the day. A Sorby blade should be as good as any.Hence the non original blade.

I can't tell what is wrong from your picture,but could fix it if you want to send it to me. PM me if you want.Possibly,all you need to do is clamp the lower end of the chip breaker in a vise,one with wooden jaws,and give it a little twist to lay it flat. Is the blade twisted? That would be unusual,but the chip breaker would be soft.The iron blade is soft,too,except for the steel bit welded in for the last 2" of the cutting end. You can see the different steel if you look carefully,if the steel is clean,not rusty.

I wouldn't go grinding on it. Best to twist it some.If you grind it,you may likely find that the chip breaker's edge is no longer parallel to the blade's cutting edge.

[Barry Vabeach]

Ian, form the Spiers that I have seen for sale, and those that I bought, I thought that a broken and repaired handle was standard - I didn't think they came any other way. Good luck getting the cap iron sorted out. As George suggests, you may need to give it a little more bend one the high side, then flatten it on some sandpaper or coarse stone. Barry

[Ian Coop]

Thank you everyone for the responses. I will try to bend it a wee bit before grinding. As George states, I want the edge of the cap iron parallel with the blade edge. The blade is dead flat and polished, so it is a suitable reference. Placing the cap iron on a granite plate shows the cap to be bent back a little on one side. If I can bend it back, then adjust with some stones, it should work. I will let you know how it turns out.

Ian