show me your hollowing tools

[curtis rosche]

i am going to make a real hollowing tool, i bought a 4ft peice of 5/8 round stock. i want to make one of those tools that has a "U" bend in it that puts the cutter 90 degrees from the handle. and i want to make one that is for the rest of the hollowing process, a straight one (im guessing)

can you show me your tools? i want to see what size the curve should be for the first tool.

also can you show me a close up of how the cutting bit is held into the tool?

thank you

[Bernie Weishapl]

Curtis are talking about a hook tool? Here is a webpage if that is what you are looking for. Alan Lacer tells ya how to do it.

http://azwoodturners.org/summer_2005_basichooktool.pdf

Here is another site.

http://www.aroundthewoods.com/hooktool.shtml

[Leo Van Der Loo]

Here's a couple of pictures Curtis, nothing fancy, as I use what I happen to have laying around, HTH
The close-up shows the gooseneck with just a small rod where the tool bit would go, just to show, as it didn't have a bit in it.

[curtis rosche]

http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=5023 kind of like this one, but with a sharper curve

[curtis rosche]

actualy more like this one, but with the cutter 90 degrees from the handle instead of 65 like the first one
http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/store/util/enlarge_popup?Args=&imgsrc=/products/large/pro-pro-forme_l.jpg

[Bernie Weishapl]

Gothcha Curtis. For my hollowing it won't do much good to show you pictures as all I have is the Monster hollowing rig. I used to have the set of 5/8" keltons but just to hard on these old arms.

[curtis rosche]

does it matter what size the curve is? i was thinking of a curve that would make it able to cut up to 4.5 inches deep, and the distance from the tool rest to the cutter would only be 3 inches max.

how do you attatch the tool bit? i was thinking of taking the files and making "blanks" for cutting bits. but i dont know how to attach them. i was thinking of using set screws but that would make it unable to change the angle of the cutter in relation to the tool

[Ben Gastfriend]

how do you attatch the tool bit? i was thinking of taking the files and making "blanks" for cutting bits. but i dont know how to attach them. i was thinking of using set screws but that would make it unable to change the angle of the cutter in relation to the tool

I think Leo's second picture above shows what you should do.

The process involves getting a machined piece of round steel, and drilling two holes in it, one to accept a small screw that holds the round to the tool shaft, and another that allows a cutter to be inserted (where Leo has the rod) perpendicular to the tool shaft. The second of the machined holes I describe should not be entirley surrounded by metal, but should be open along the bottom side, so when the screw holding the round to the shaft is tigtened, it not only secures the angle of the bit, but also clamps the bit in place.

Hope you can understand this jibber-jabber.

[curtis rosche]

i understand it Ben. thanks, i couldnt tell how the circle held the bit, but know it makes sense thanks

[Art Kelly]

Here are mine. The cutter on the right is a Pro Forme from NZ, and the other is a well-used homemade from O-1 drill rod. It's since been reformed and rehardened.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=108471&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1233258741 (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=108471&d=1233258741)



With regard to the goose neck dimensions, if the cutter projects more than 1/2" or so from the main axis of the shaft, try to add a stabilizing handle at right angles to the main handle. You hold this handle in your right hand and tuck the main handle under your elbow. And Bernie is right--they beat you up, especially if there are knots, etc., in the work, and way worse when dry.

Art

[Leo Van Der Loo]

Curtis the way I have made the gooseneck bit holder is with a disk cut from a shaft, so that makes it easy, then the opening for the tool bit is just so big that the bit is hammered into the hole, that way I can use the disk to hold it when sharpening the bit, but you could use a disk with the opening for the bit partially outside the disk, the disk would hold the tool bit tight when tightened down, but it makes the sharpening a little harder to do on a short thin tool bit, that's why I went this way, easily changed if you don't like it.

The end of the bit should be inline with the shaft, if it doesn't line up there will be torsion forces that you have to work against at all times, much easier to get a catch that way also, so make your curve to fit to that end.

The disk with the bit in it, is held at the angle you need to do the cutting and can be easily changed by just loosening the screw and turning the disk.

You could use a round disk from hard steel like I have on the outrigger tool in the first picture, it is made from a planer blade, and I drilled a hole through it with a carbide bit at low speed and lots of cooling oil and high pressure, it will drill that way, there are a few more bits wired to the tool, the flat disk works fine for fine scraping, but I never use them for hollowing.