Laquer Method and Type

[Paul Rains]

what type and method of applying laquer do you suggest on cherry bowl?

[Ben Gastfriend]

I'm a Minwax poly person, myself, but I have a feeling people are going to tell you to go with Deft laquer. Somebody else will have to fill you in on the application techinque... I'm interested as well.

[Paul Rains]

What are the opinions on the aerosol laquer products???

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Bernie Weishapl uses rattle can spray on lacquer IIRC. I use Deft brushing lacquer and just friction it on. Later after it has had time to cure, I Beall buff it.

[Paul Rains]

No need to sand again?? Do you take it to 320 spray and buff? What about the guys I have heard use multiple coats, what do they do in between?

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Paul...I don't sand between coats. Lacquer and shellac are different than varnishes. Lacquer and shellac actually dissolve and become part of the coat. So you don't have multiple coats like varnishes. With varnishes and poly when you apply multiple coats...you have just that...multiple coats and you have to worry about sanding through them. With shellac or lacquer, the coats just become part of the "coat"....


BTW...I don't spray...I brush on with the lathe running at a slow speed...then bring the lathe up to a medium speed and friction both lacquer and shellac...which ever I'm using.

It works for me. And it's not the only way.

[David Walser]

Paul,

My method is a little different than Ken's. Here's what I do. After sanding to about 320 grit, and while the bowl is still on the lathe, I apply a coat of Deft's lacquer with a brush and let it soak in for about a minute. Then, I wipe off the excess with a paper towel, turning on the lathe to "burn" the lacquer in after I've gotten most of the excess wiped off. I then let the lacquer cure for 15 minutes or so, before cutting the lacquer back to the bare wood with 320 grit sandpaper or 0000 steel wool. The purpose of this first coat is to serve as a sanding sealer.

I'll then sand up through my finish grit and then apply 2 - 4 additional coats to build up the thickness I want. I apply each coat as described above, except I won't sand between coats unless some dust has stuck to the surface or there's a run in the lacquer. If I want a high gloss finish, then I'll be using high-gloss lacquer for all coats. Else, I'll use semi-gloss. After the last coat of semi-gloss, I'll generally cut the gloss back a little more with 0000 steel wool, lubricated with Johnson's paste wax. If I want a high-gloss finish, I'll buff after the final coat of lacquer has cured -- usually after a day or two it's safe to buff.

Note: I live in Mesa, Arizona. It tends to be dry and warm here. It may take a coat of lacquer longer to set and cure in other parts of the country.

HTH

[Jeff Nicol]

Paul, If you think about a lacquer pot from Japan, they put many mant coats of lacquer on and the depth the achieve is incredible! I use the deft spray as I think for the price it goes on the best out of the rattle can. I do have a can of it that I will thin down and use a finish sprayer with the air compressor if I have a lot of things to coat. But make sure you use lots of ventilation and a resperator, because the lacquer thinner is bad for the body! The advantage of using the air compressor and spray gun is that I can put on many very fine thin coats fast and build up the thickness I want. After a few coats I will let it dry for a few hours and come back and sand it with 600-800 grit to get any impefections out. Then give it a few more fine coats. With lacquer each coat will melt into the preceeding layer and bond to it. Even with the rattle can lacquer I sand inbetween coats and get rid of any orange peel or dust bumps. Then let it dry for a few days to a week and buff to a high gloss. If you are not satisfied add some more or sand it back and put a coat of semi-gloss or satin on to change the look. It all takes time and what I, or Bernie do may not be what you like. So play around with it and you will see all of what lacquer can do!

Have fun,

Jeff

[Bernie Weishapl]

Paul, Jeff pretty much said it. I pretty much do the same thing. The nice thing about lacquer is if you have a finish room that is pretty clean you don't have to sand. I use a synthetic pad to go over mine to clear any dust nibs, etc. The lacquer doesn't have to be sanded because it melts into the layer that is already on it unlike poly which needs some scuffing. Lacquer is a easy to use finish and you can put 3 or 4 layers on in 1 1/2 to 2 hrs. I wait 30 minutes between coats. Just make sure you put light coats on so it doesn't run. Have fun and experiment.

[Mike Peace]

The guy that taught me how to turn switched from Deft spray can lacquer to Krylon acrylic spray from Kmart. He says it is cheaper, harder and drys faster. I have had little experience with either as I tend to rely on Minway Antique Oil.

[Scott Conners]

I use deft from a can, just keep adding coats until it's as built up as you want. Then I hit it with 0000 steel wool or 600g wet/dry then buff to a high polish. I'll also hit it with steel wool/sandpaper in between coats if I get a run or bad orangepeel/texture/dust. Rattle cans spray a much thinner coat than a good gun, so it takes more coats to build up a really deep finish. Let it cure for a week or three before buffing/rubbing out.

[Don Robert]

Some time ago I switched to water-based lacquers and varnishes. So if you have a facility to finish off the lathe, you might try it. I really like it. Burns in just like solvent based lacquers, sands very well and dries in almost as short a time. Much more environmentally friendly, and much safer (although you should still use a respirator).

[Richard Madison]

Same as them but different. Wipe on one coat of Qualalacq or Deft sanding sealer with paper towel, two coats for open grain wood. 0000 steel wool if it has nibs or whatever. For small pieces, multiple coats of Deft rattle can lacquer. Gets expensive for bigger pieces, so one or two coats of Deft brushing lacquer. Let set up a few days and 0000 steel wool or 600 paper to level the surface if needed. Finish with two coats of Deft rattle can. Let set up. Buff or whatever as desired.

[Maylon Harvey]

Paul, If you think about a lacquer pot from Japan, they put many mant coats of lacquer on and the depth the achieve is incredible! I use the deft spray as I think for the price it goes on the best out of the rattle can. I do have a can of it that I will thin down and use a finish sprayer with the air compressor if I have a lot of things to coat. But make sure you use lots of ventilation and a resperator, because the lacquer thinner is bad for the body! The advantage of using the air compressor and spray gun is that I can put on many very fine thin coats fast and build up the thickness I want. After a few coats I will let it dry for a few hours and come back and sand it with 600-800 grit to get any imperfections out. Then give it a few more fine coats. With lacquer each coat will melt into the preceding layer and bond to it. Even with the rattle can lacquer I sand in between coats and get rid of any orange peel or dust bumps. Then let it dry for a few days to a week and buff to a high gloss. If you are not satisfied add some more or sand it back and put a coat of semi-gloss or satin on to change the look. It all takes time and what I, or Bernie do may not be what you like. So play around with it and you will see all of what lacquer can do!

Have fun,

Jeff


Don't mean to hijack this thread but Jeff and others, how do you hold onto your bowl to spray on your finish to be able to get both inside, outside and bottom without lap marks or over spray if your only doing one part at a time or the whole thing at a time. Hope that is not confusing.

[Richard Madison]

Maylon, bottom finished first, upside down on manually operated home made turntable. Top finished second a day or two later, right side up of course. Work always supported so the spray cannot reach the contact between the work and its support (block or whatever, on the turntable). Always a challenge to get nearly full, wet coats without runs. Many thin, rather than one or two thick.