grinder jig setup part 2 with pics

[curtis rosche]

here are the pictures of the grinder with the jig. i realized it is not really that far off, and that the jig desnt need to be centered, yeah it will change the grind slightly but the main thing is that i can make a consistant grind with it so that the cutting results will always be the same.

it is now covered with metal filings from the tool project.

[David Walser]

First, to Curtis: I don't think I'd be satisfied with the jig off center. Yes, you can "make it do". But, you didn't pay good money to get something that's "okay" did you? Besides, having the jig off center will make it more difficult for you to use the entire width of the wheel -- causing the wheel to wear out more quickly. Not a big deal, maybe, but not a situation I'd be all that please with.

Second, to everyone else considering a jig of this type: The Oneway Wolverine is a great jig and it's clearly the market favorite. Another system is from Woodcut. Both systems will do a good job helping you sharpen your tools. But take a look at the pictures Curtis posted. Notice the long square tube that forms the base of the Wolverine system and compare it with the slides from the Woodcut system (picture posted below). (I got the picture from CSUSA's website. Hope they don't mind.) The Woodcut's slides are half as long as the Wolverine's slides. This means the Woodcut's jig takes up less room on your bench and requires less room in front of the grinder to use. It also isn't as "thick" as the Wolverine -- meaning it's easier to fit under the wheels of your grinder. Just something to consider.

[Gary Chester]

Sorry if this was suggested in your last post... I'm too lazy to go back and check...

If it were me, I'd raise or lower the jig enough to get it centered. But then I have a thing for symmetry.

I think that's more important than the height of the jig in relation to the wheel. I could be wrong, but in my mind the only difference the height would make is where the tool would come in contact with the wheel. The angle of contact would still be determined by the position of the bar. If you lowered the jig, the bar would less extended than "normal". This all assumes the height change isn't so extreme that the guard interferes with the tool.

Then again... maybe you're tired of messin' with it... and again, I could be wrong.

[George Guadiane]

I had the same problem. I put the grinder up on a block of wood and set the bases directly under the wheels. The vertical difference can be compensated for without sacrificing the grind or the grinder.
I DID have a struggle with how to hold the grinder in place, I used "L" shaped wood blocks as clamps and screwed them to to the base.

[Dave Schell]

It looks to me, from the picture, that the grinder base has a triangular point out each side, and that if you were to grind that off and drill a new hole, that you could slide over the jig base enough to center it. That preserves the 6.5" spindle height.

[Dick Sowa]

I guess I am just dense, or am missing something in this discussion. But it seems to me that this really is a non-issue...assuming you do one thing. And that is to put your grinder up on a platform so the base is above the level or your jig. It would mean having to cantilever the base out over the jig, and might be require some finagling to get it bolted down, but it's doable. The way I see it, grinding the edges off the base of the grinder, or buying a new grinder isn't really necessary.

The whole point of using the jig is to have your tool touch the wheel at a particular angle...whatever you happen to choose. That very same angle can be achieved by merely adjusting the extension on the slide bar of your jig...regarless how far it happens to be below the base of the grinder.

Because the wheel you use for grinding is a circle, if the wheel is an inch higher, all you need to do is bring the jig slider in a fraction of an inch, and it will meet the wheel at the exact same angle as before. The only consequence, is that by raising the grinder on a platform, your tool will need to touch the wheel at a slightly more vertical angle.

[curtis rosche]

i fixed the problem, i undid the back bolt on the jig and moved the back end till it created an angle that put the v arm dead center of the wheel. this will work for a long time unless i get a new bowl gouge or change the grind, both of which are unlikely