Help with cracks in sycamore vase

[Mark Burge]

Hello all, I haven't posted much yet, but I have been busy lately on this vase. I am having trouble with some cracks developing around the opening. I tried to hold things together with some CA but they are still very noticeable. Does anyone have any suggestions about how to address them at this stage?

I am about at the point of saying, "well, that's what wood does sometimes" and leaving them as is. This wood has done the same thing to me on other pieces but less noticeably so.

This is actually, one of my first HFs. It is about 7" tall and 4" diameter. As I said above, it is sycamore that I got from a downed tree in Kentucky about a year ago. I am rather pleased with the form, but my inside technique needs a little work. The sides are a little bumpy inside and the finish on the wood is rough (a lot of torn grain). At the bottom, I couldn't get my hooked tool to reach right (I don't have a straight hollowing tool) and my bowl gouge was hard to use because I couldn't quite tell what I was doing and I feared a catch. I wished my round nose scraper was a little longer.

Oh, yeah. I should add that it has one coat of Walnut Oil on it now. I am planning on finishing with a wipe on gloss poly.

[Bill Bolen]

Afraid there is not a whole lot to be done. Fill with sycamore dust and CA sand as smooth as possible and call her done. Good looking piece and an interesting mouth treatement!..Bill..

[Dick Strauss]

Mark,
I think Bill's suggestion has you on the right path. You may also want to put a finish on soon to slow the drying.

Based on where the cracks are, I think these were stress cracks that were in the original log. In the future you may want to go past where the visible cracks end and keep turning/cutting another 1/2-1" or so just to make sure you get rid of the suspect material.

[Bernie Weishapl]

I just did a bowl today that was cracking on me. I mixed up five minute epoxy with sanding dust. I filled the cracks and let it dry. I then finished it.

[Dick Sowa]

I agree..probably stress cracks. However, even after a year, a block of wood can hold quite a bit of moisture. If you could rough turn it, so walls and base are about an inch thick, then let it sit for another 6 months, it would probably dry enough to prevent cracking from moisture loss. But it would probably warp some.

I've not tried it, but several folks prefer using epoxy mixed with sawdust for crack filler. It can fill pretty large cracks and is hard as nails when cured.

[curtis rosche]

when hollowing with a bowl gouge, you just have to stop and check with your hands every once and a while

[Mark Burge]

I think you are right. These cracks were there in the log. I tend to not cut back far enough when I have an idea that needs more wood. I'm just going to have to settle for smaller pieces from this wood, I think. I don't think that epoxy will go into these cracks because they are so small, so the CA route seems to be the best one. I'm going to try it this evening and then put on the poly. They maybe I can finish off the bottom tomorrow and be done with it.

Curtis, I would have been checking by feel if I could have reached much inside the form. I was giving it the finger as much as I could.

Thanks again.

[Dick Strauss]

Mark,
I've had good luck thinning down epoxy with xylol (xylene). It helps the epoxy to penetrate and has no adverse effects as far as I can tell. A retired Ford employee (paint dept) friend turned me on to it.

I didn't mean for my previous note to sound like a lecture though I think maybe it did. I think we've all been there trying to save every last inch of wood when we first start turning. After a while you will realize it isn't worth taking a chance unless it is a very special piece of wood (or you are willing to live with the cracks).

Happy turning,
Dick

[Mark Burge]

Dick: No offense taken at all. I appreciate your help. I had not heard of thinning epoxy. I'll keep that trick on file for the next one.