Question on superglue finish on turning a pen?

[Tom Henry]

I am new to this pen turning addiction and watched a youtube video and he used superglue to finish the pen. How and is the glue a special glue??? Help:(

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Tom....It's really not a special CA glue. There are several types of CA (Superglue) and basically the differences deal with setup times and viscosities. You will see many arguments and discussions on which is better..thick or thin...but it works well but is relatively expensive.

The finish I like to use is a superglue (CyanoAcrylate= CA) and BLO (Boiled Linseed Oil) finish. It goes on quick and easy for me. The important thing is to find a method that works for you and use it. And ...don't be afraid to try something new once in a while.

Here's a link to a video at the IAP website where Russ Fairfield demonstrates how to appy CA and BLO finish. http://www.penturners.org/forum/showthread.php?t=319

[Bernie Weishapl]

Tom I go to Wal-Mart and buy the 4 pack of super glue in the black/yellow bubble pack. I quit using the BLO because it really doesn't do anything for me anyway. I just use CA straight.

[Tom Henry]

Should I be using a special clothe to apply? I tried this with regular superglue and it didn't seem to work. I applied a small amount to a clean clothe and applied like I watched on the video. It didn't seem to give me an even finish.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Tom...I put mine on with a folded paper towel.

[Dean Thomas]

Yup, paper towel. Or you can use those great foam packing sheets. The CA finish is as much about timing as it is anything else, IMHO.

When you use quality CA glue that's fresh, you can get a fair amount of it on your pen in a single swipe. You put it on, let it harden and then sand that sucker flat. The spelling is cyanoacrylate. It's important because you can then see acrylate is related to acrylic. You're dealing with a true acrylic pen. Sand the wood smooth, like to 400 or 600 grit. Put on your coat(s) of CA, gently sand between, add more, sand more, add more, sand and then micromesh to high gloss.

Most folks seem to fail with this finish because they try to skimp on the CA or because they get their timing wrong. When you apply thin, you are going to get only one pass, maybe two really quick ones. When you apply medium, you'll get a couple more and with thick even more, maybe 5 or 6 swipes. If you try to make the coats thin, you don't get enough material on the pen to work with. If you try to take too many swipes to get it smooth to save sanding, you end up messing up the surface completely.

That's kind of the late night digest version of my own experience in learning the CA finish. Only other tip is watch out for oily woods. Wipe them down with acetone before trying the CA finish. Hope it helps.

[David Walser]

Tom,

There are many different methods to apply a CA finish. Understand that very few get it right the first time or two. You are working with glue, after all. You need to develop the right feel. Too much pressure and the CA glue will set too quickly -- binding the application pad (and your fingers) to the pen blank. Too little pressure and you won't get a smooth finish -- and you still might get stuck to the blank!

Don Ward, of Red River Pens, has a good step-by-step tutorial on his method of applying a CA finish. Here's a link to his articles page: http://redriverpens.com/articles.htm. His CA finish article is currently listed as article number 1. Feel free to look at his other articles. There's lots of good info!

Note: Don's method works for him. I do something similar that works for me. With practice, you'll find the method that works for you.

Good luck!

[David Walser]

Dean wrote:
When you use quality CA glue that's fresh, you can get a fair amount of it on your pen in a single swipe. You put it on, let it harden and then sand that sucker flat. ...

...When you apply thin, you are going to get only one pass, maybe two really quick ones. When you apply medium, you'll get a couple more and with thick even more, maybe 5 or 6 swipes. ...I'm quoting Dean, not because I disagree with his method, but because I think it illustrates how each of us develop a different method that works for us. My method is almost entirely different than Dean's method. I don't "sand that sucker flat" between coats -- unless something went wrong and the coat has a lot of ripples in it. I also don't get only 1 or 2 swipes with thin CA. Instead, I find I can get a smooth surface by keeping my applicator pad moving and rubbing firmly. I get several passes this way and pull the applicator off just before the glue grabs the pad out of my hand. (That takes a lot of practice!) In this way, I can apply several coats and only sand after application of the final coat -- starting with micro mesh.

Again, my method is NOT better than Dean's! I'm sure he gets a great finish on his pens. So do I. His is what he prefers and mine is what I prefer. In this case, your mileage absolutely will vary!

Good luck!

[John Staerk]

The procedure demonstrated in this video works well for me. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=orcgOf4siqc

[Chris Barnett]

Does the CA pop the grain as well as the BLO?

[Tom Henry]

Aahhhhh!!!! I tried again tonight on a piece of Cocobolo and no luck! Had to sand and finish...I will try again...also had some problems with the epoxy and the tube inserts...they wouldn't adhere...OMG...it still turned out awesome...but I am still pissed I didn't get the CA to work...:mad:

[Dean Thomas]

Chris,

Remember that BLO has a yellowish cast to it. It is going to impart a little bit of color to the wood. In many woods, that little bit of yellow will impact the grain and maybe cause at least the appearance of "pop". I've done pens with and without BLO. For me, it's mostly an extra ingredient and an extra mess that I can frankly do without and still get really pretty pens.

I have not done a head to head comparison of BLO/CA on one half of a blank and just CA on the other half. Might be a worthwhile test.

[Gordon Thompson]

Does the CA pop the grain as well as the BLO?


no, not in my opinion. i use blo and ca.

[Dean Thomas]

Aahhhhh!!!! I tried again tonight on a piece of Cocobolo and no luck! Had to sand and finish...I will try again...also had some problems with the epoxy and the tube inserts...they wouldn't adhere...OMG...it still turned out awesome...but I am still pissed I didn't get the CA to work...:mad:
Did you wash the cocobolo down with acetone before you tried? Remember that cocobolo is one of those that fits into the oily/waxy wood clan. Very seldom will you get finish on them that doesn't end up separating. Very...

And with the epoxy & tubes, did you use some sandpaper to scuff the tubes? Some recommend 220 grit. I use 100 grit, lightly. And remember that you need to sand AROUND the tubes, not ALONG the tubes. Wanna guess why I know that?

[Tom Henry]

Chris,

Remember that BLO has a yellowish cast to it. It is going to impart a little bit of color to the wood. In many woods, that little bit of yellow will impact the grain and maybe cause at least the appearance of "pop". I've done pens with and without BLO. For me, it's mostly an extra ingredient and an extra mess that I can frankly do without and still get really pretty pens.

I have not done a head to head comparison of BLO/CA on one half of a blank and just CA on the other half. Might be a worthwhile test.


Big help...these are things I guess I am going to learn the hard way teaching myself...:(

[Mark Hix]

Most of us have been thru all this when we were starting. Keep trying. Practice on scrap a couple of times before you do the blank. The learning curve is fast.

It has already been said that there is a different technique for every turner....I just started experimenting with a new one. Instead of micromesh, I apply the CA, when done, sand w/ 600, lathe on and slow; then off along the axis of the blank; then switch to the buffer, EEE and White diamond...
I saw this at a penturner meeting and it was SO much easier and faster than going thru the levels of MM. So far, I like it.

Enjoy yourself and post pictures.