4/4 Walnut, thicker than expected

[Jack Porter]

So I was at the hardwood dealer and grabbed about 70bf of 4/4 walnut. It looked a little thicker than typical but I didn't pay much attention. The majority of the boards actually measure out to over 1-1/4". So, I don't want to plane that much wood down (most stock for the piece is 3/4" finished) and I don't want to change the thickness of any members for the piece. Am I pretty much at the point of resawing all the boards?

I guess I can have worse problems, but I think the extra thickness is just making more work. I guess I just have to find another project needing some walnut veneer.

Any other thoughts?

[John Keeton]

I would make sure it is good and flat before I took any off. If you run it across the jointer and get a good clean cut, then one might consider resawing a little veneer or thin stock - but me? Unless I had some use for the veneer or some 1/4" stock (about what you would end up with after planing all surfaces) I would just crank up the ol' planer for that amount of wood. Just call me lazy:D

[Jack Porter]

I would make sure it is good and flat before I took any off. If you run it across the jointer and get a good clean cut, then one might consider resawing a little veneer or thin stock - but me? Unless I had some use for the veneer or some 1/4" stock (about what you would end up with after planing all surfaces) I would just crank up the ol' planer for that amount of wood. Just call me lazy:D

John, your not lazy at all, I think I'm just cheap and hate to see that much walnut in my cyclone hopper:). I did run a few boards through the jointer and they were pretty flat, only needed to take off about an eighth max, (most of the pieces I need are less than 3 ft long).

[David Freed]

Dry lumber that measures 1 1/4" is 5/4. I would check the moisture before you do anything with the lumber. If this lumber was dried in a batch of 4/4 lumber where the majority was not miscut, this thicker lumber may not be dry. If it was actually sawed and dried as 5/4 and for some reason is being sold as 4/4, you should be ok.

[Jack Porter]

Dry lumber that measures 1 1/4" is 5/4. I would check the moisture before you do anything with the lumber. If this lumber was dried in a batch of 4/4 lumber where the majority was not miscut, this thicker lumber may not be dry. If it was actually sawed and dried as 5/4 and for some reason is being sold as 4/4, you should be ok.

thanks dave, the MC is about 7-9, so it should be pretty stable. Might have just been a case of selling 5/4 as 4/4, but I find it hard to believe. The dealer is usually rather careful about his stock.

[Rick Moyer]

Take it back and tell him you want an equal BF of 4/4. 20% gain!:D

[Rob Price]

I had a similar "problem" with my last project. I just left the wood a little thick, the main thing for me is that all the pieces are the same thickness and flat. It was a big piece of furniture where a robust look worked, probably not for a smaller piece.

I was able to get a 1" thick top. The panels for the doors had to be 3/4, so I planed those down a bit more.

If you get greedy and resaw a bit too much you're left with too thin stock, which, to me, would be a bigger problem.

[John Keeton]

I try to cut up my rough stock into oversized pieces that approximate the cutlist, let it set for a few days, and then joint/plane it. Seems I get better finished stock when I do that.

[Gary Herrmann]

If nothing else, you could have a boat load of book marks.

[george wilson]

Never hurts to wait between thickness reducing processes.

[Anthony Whitesell]

Like John had suggested. I would joint the face and an edge and then a pass or two through the planer to just remove some of the rough and then see what thickness your have. I have been doing some resawing lately both thick and thin cuts and found that with an 0.025 kerf bandsaw blade, I need to alot about 1/8" of width for the cut and the clean up on both pieces. In you situation, if the board is 1 1/4" and need 3/4", then there is 1/2" available for the for jointing, planing, resawing, and clean up. The resawing will use 1/8" and best case another 1/8" for each of the jointing and the planing operations. That leaves only a 1/8" thick piece to go in the veener pile (1/2"-1/8" jointing -1/8" planing-1/8" resawing and clean up=1/8" veneer). This is assuming that the board is straight enough that only 1/8" is required in each of the jointing and planing operations. That 1/8" and quickly get eaten up by a cupped or bowed board and a few extra passes on the jointer.

I would try to go for it as the veneer would be free, but don't be surprised if the planer gets a little extra work.

[Chris Padilla]

Uhm, what are the dimensions of your walnut and potential veneers you might slice from them? I have been resawing walnut like a mad dog to get 1/16" veneers after drum sanding them for my Tansu (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=92396) project. :D

[Chip Lindley]

Ok...let me get this straight!....During these *Hard Times* Jack is complaining because he got MORE than he Paid for! That is UnAmerican!! OR is it?? We have become such a nation of WHINERS that any discomfort or inconsistency is magnified mega times in proportion to it's real importance. As Don Henley sang, "Get Over It!"

[Joe Hardesty]

Sue 'em!

Use the thread as evidence of the lost time required to rectify the grievous action.

[Brad Shipton]

I agree with John. Unless you have a need for the veneer, it can tend to be a pain to store unless you have a dedicated veneer storage area. I too have felt guilty planing almost 5/4 to 3/4, but when I look at the pieces wasting space in my storage bin, I usually get over it.

Brad

[Robert Parrish]

All the lumber I buy is always thicker than advertised. I received some 4/4 yellow heart today that was 5/4 and last week I received some 8/4 Paduak and Purple heart from Wall Lumber and some of it was 10/4. I resaw where I can and plan down to thickness where I can't. I used to feel bad about planning lumber down to get the thickness I needed but I'm too old to worry about it now. My time is more valuable now besides what law says you need to used only 3/4" lumber, plans are for modifying!

[guy knight]

i find it faster to resaw a slice or two then planing it down with multiple passes i guess it all depends on what bandsaw a you have and what blade i am always finding use for veneer and it is easy to store

[Jack Porter]

Ok...let me get this straight!....During these *Hard Times* Jack is complaining because he got MORE than he Paid for! That is UnAmerican!! OR is it?? We have become such a nation of WHINERS that any discomfort or inconsistency is magnified mega times in proportion to it's real importance. As Don Henley sang, "Get Over It!"

Chip, my goodness, I didn't realize that I represent a nation of whiners.
Not complaining, just curious what other do with oversized stock and looking for a little help with what direction to take (resaw or plane).

At least you ended you post with a quote from really swell musician.:rolleyes:

[Wilbur Pan]

I'd resaw the thicker boards, so you'll have your 3/4" stock and be left with 1/4" boards. I can't believe you won't be able to find a use for 1/4" walnut in some project later on. Use it for inlays, decoration, heck -- you can make really fancy looking jigs as well! ;)