How many Hobbyists have a Drum Sander?

[Chris Tsutsui]

I see them in shops and being used all the time, but as a hobbyist I don't think I would get enough use out of one.

I was curious how many people had them and what they come in handy for.

[Eric DeSilva]

Do you count the open frame sanders as "drum sanders"? If so, I've got one... Comes in handy for sanding down end grain cutting blocks and other glue-ups that I don't want to run through my planer...

[kazek supinski]

i use my all the time every broad comes off the planner goes threw the drum sander at 120 grit then finish with 220 by hand

[Chris Tsutsui]

Yeah, open frame ones count. Any sander with a drum that flattens wood similar to a Planer, but results are smooth.

The ones i would buy would be anything I see on craigslist from time to time. There's no way I would get one of those big ones that could fit a door of course...

I'm thinking that one thing to do is you could resaw a veneer or inlay piece on the band saw, then drum sand it smooth and to the right thickness. Correct?

I'm not quite sure how thin a piece of wood can go into a drum sander though...

[Bill Wyko]

22-44 DS. I use it more than my table saw. Necessity sums it up.:D

[Mike Heidrick]

I have one. I use it whenever I need it. Just ran a glued up top for a book case through it Sunday night.

[Don Morris]

I classify myself as a serious hobbyist, and space in my small basement shop doesn't allow for another major piece of equipment. So no drum sander here. Would be nice though, like a 12" jointer vs my 8" jointer, etc. At some point, it's just a hobby.

Don M

[CPeter James]

I have a General 15-250 double drum sander and find it very handy. While it may not be the most used tool in the shop, there are some things that it will do that nothing else will do as well. For panels, it is hard to beat. They come out flat as a piece of plate glass.

CPeter

[Brian Kent]

Almost 2 years ago a woodworking friend sold (almost gave) me a Delta 18-36 drum sander and a Grizzly 8" jointer. I confess that I have never used the jointer (someday I will, but my lumber supplier sells really flat wood). I use the sander at least weekly. I have no planer, so I sometimes make multiple passes in place of a planer. It is one of my favorite tools.

Brian

[frank shic]

i love using my performax for flattening raised panels.

[Aaron Berk]

I'm a SERIOUS hobbyist who's car has never been in the garage of any house I've owned and I've even got lumber stored out in the garden shed, under my back porch, and some in the house. I eat sleep and breath sawbust (which maybe isn't a good thing:D)
So like I said I don't have a drum sander, but that's only because I haven't found a good deal on one yet. I'll buy one the moment I find one that meets my budget and quality standards. And a nice wide belt edge sander too, a woodworker can't have to many sanding machines, there like clamps never to many:D

[Peter Scoma]

Ive been eyeing the Grizzly baby drum sander for a while, however, even with such a small unit I can barely fit it in my shop. My supplier has a drum sander that they charge a small fee for using.

PS

[Paul Johnstone]

I see them in shops and being used all the time, but as a hobbyist I don't think I would get enough use out of one.

I was curious how many people had them and what they come in handy for.

I have one, and just about every piece of hardwood goes through it.

It's a big time saver, and honestly does a better job than if I went through the ROS on every grit.

[Jim Becker]

I did have one; found I wasn't using it that much; sold it to free up the space. It was a very nice machine (Performax 22-44 Plus) and is now in another 'Creeker's shop getting a lot of use.

[Bob Luciano]

I picked up a 22-44 for $200 on a fluke. Can't tell you how much time I have wasted without out it Makes sanding almost pleasurable. Dust collection is required not optional.

[Chris Tsutsui]

K, I will probably just pull the trigger if I come across a deal.

My garage can only fit one compact car. The other half is filled with woodworking tools. I'd say I have enough space for one more machine on a mobile base. :)

I was debating between a drum sander or an oscillating spindle sander. I'm thinking the drum sander would be used more for my projects.

[Chris Tsutsui]

I imagine dust to be crazy.

For maintenance, I would just use compressed air to clean out dust and then a rubber cleaning "eraser" stick.

[Dewey Torres]

I imagine dust to be crazy.

For maintenance, I would just use compressed air to clean out dust and then a rubber cleaning "eraser" stick.

No you have to hook these up to a DC... there really isn't another option. Without the DC your paper will clog in a matter of minutes and dust will be every where. To include your feed belt.

[Jason Beam]

No you have to hook these up to a DC... there really isn't another option. Without the DC your paper will clog in a matter of minutes and dust will be every where. To include your feed belt.


What he said.

No way in heck would I run my 16/32 with even 6" wide veneer without the DC. It clogs FAST even when i just forget to turn it on for a few seconds. Clogging means burning and ruining of the sandpaper.

They should sell these things with a DC built underneath it, man, it's that crazy :)

[Anthony Whitesell]

I have one. First because it accepts pieces only 3" long (opposed to the planer which requires 14"). Second, to cut down on sanding time.

[Bruce Page]

I use my Woodmaster on everything.

[Keith Outten]

I own a Performax 10/20 which is more like a bench top drum sander. It is a solid beefy machine and will do the job nicely and stay out of the way when it's not needed. I used to own a large 24" dual drum sander that I rarely ever used so I traded down to a size that better fits my shop work. The little 10/20 will sand small plaques that are only 6" long and will go down to 1/8" thickness. I have mine on a hydraulic table so I can park it under my ShopBot.
.

[Chris Padilla]

I'm thinking that one thing to do is you could resaw a veneer or inlay piece on the band saw, then drum sand it smooth and to the right thickness. Correct?

I'm not quite sure how thin a piece of wood can go into a drum sander though...

This is PRECISELY why I bought my used Delta 18-36. See my Tansu (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=92396) project. :) You can go extremely thin on this. I've gone only to 1/16" but I'm sure it'll go further. However, the height-adjustment on this is horrible and I wouldn't use this machine if I had to constantly adjust the bed height in large increments even though it'll do like 4". It has worked perfect for my veneering project(s), however.

DC is a must...do not even consider sanding anything without adequate DC. Go ahead...try it...then you'll be convinced! ;)

[Aaron Berk]

K, I will probably just pull the trigger if I come across a deal.


I was debating between a drum sander or an oscillating spindle sander. I'm thinking the drum sander would be used more for my projects.


Oscillating spindle sander:D Yet another cool toy on my list of needs, yes needs not wants hehehe

[george wilson]

Oscillating sander might be better for belt life,but I don't think I'd care for the zig-zag sanding marks they leave.

[Loren Blount]

I debated for over a year whether or not to buy one. I Finally pulled the trigger on the Jet 22-44 oscillating drum and have been very happy with it. I use it to flatten glued up panels and remove planer snipe.

Loren

[John Eaton]

I've got an older Performax 16-32 that works exceptionally well.

-- John

[Scott Rollins]

Every thing runs through my 16-32 at 120 grit. ROS to 220 like others. It is a real time saver. Wait for a good deal on CL. or other auction sites.

[keith ouellette]

I have a performax 16/32. I have only used it a little but can think of many ways it would be useful when i get a little more advanced. I bought it used. Otherwise I would have waited.

[Allan Froehlich]

I'm thinking about getting one.

Question: Do they leave anything on the board like snipe?

[Jim Tobias]

Use my woodmaster for everything from sanding panels to tsanding highly figured woods to thickness (instead of planer). I also use it quite a bit getting uniformm thickness on strips for edge banding veneered pieces.
It would be difficult to live without.

Jim

[Charlie Jones]

I built my own. I use it for boards under 3 feet long as it doesn't have a power feed (yet). It works great for door panels.

[Anthony Whitesell]

If you don't support the outfeed side well enough they can. The outfeed tables/support just need to be level with the feed belt. Not lower or higher like one would adjust planer tables to reduce the snipe.

[glenn witgen]

I purchased a older 16/32. Sand great but I cannot get the belt to track. It always tracks to the right side(motor side). I can run it with the left side ajuster nut loose and it still tracks to the right. I replaced belt and also switch the belt 180 deg with no improvement. I like how the unit sands but am frustrated with the tracing.

[Stephen Edwards]

I don't have a problem with snipe on my Performax 16-32 and it doesn't have any infeed our outfeed tables. I'm just careful as I run boards through it. Primarily I use it for preparing boards that would otherwise have a lot of tearout if ran on a planer.

Last year I did my first laminations useing the DS, pieces like 11 by 17. I used the bandsaw to resaw a board smooth and flat on both sides. Then, laminated the thin boards to the core material, smoooth side to the core. Then, ran it through the DS until I had about 1/8 laminate. Works great.

[John Carlo]

Wood reviewed the choices this month. If you decide to buy, check it out. I have the Performax 22-44.The review tells the minimum thicknesses able to be sanded without a backer board. I use mine on every project. A few minutes with the ROS takes out the straight line scratches. Do check out the new Jet with oscillating action. Good luck.

[Steven Dupree]

Glenn,
I have the Performax 25x2, and I have the same tracking problem. I think I have the problem narrowed down to the drive shaft on the feed roller that fits into the motor. The shaft is bent. If you watch your motor while it's running, you will see it gently oscillating. Unfortunaltey, I haven't figured out how to fix it yet.:( I've thought about taking it to a machine shop to see if they have any ideas. Supermax/performax has the replacement roller, but it cost $444.:eek:
If you figure yours out, please post your fix.
As to the original question, I use it ALL THE TIME. Even with the tracking problem, I still use it, and when it tracks far enough over that it starts to rub the motor, I loosen everything up, slide it back over and start again. I love my drum sander.

[Jerry Todd]

I would not be without my 25 inch Woodmaster Drum Sander. It seems that it gets a workout from me and my woodworking friends. If you are glueing edgejoints to make larger panels the Woodmaster Drumsander provides a great finish.

[Rod Sheridan]

Workshop in the basement of a townhouse equalls no room for one.

My scraping plane and cabinet scraper take up less storage room.

Regards, Rod.

[Marty Paulus]

A friend and I are looking at completing the shop in my garage. We are discussing the need and funding for a method of sizing and smoothing resaw lumber. I am of the opinion that we need a DS. As was stated in here, it can be used for thickness and smoothing. My friend thinks a planer is a better choice. My logic is with the DS the sanding is very limited. With a planer you will have to sand. What is the way to go? Funding and space is not available for both.

[Tim Malyszko]

While I don't have one yet, I want a 22-44. Now that I've been getting into more inlay/segmented/veneer work, a drum sander would make it much easier. When working with solid wood exclusively, I can get by without one.

[Anthony Whitesell]

As mentioned in a previous post, one of the reason for my purchase of the DS was to finish rough stock too short for my planer. Once upon a time, I was to get 1 sq ft scrap pieces for $1 each. Mostly maples and oaks, but occassionally an exotic mahagony or zebrawood. The performax has some aggressive papers available down to 36g. But unfortunately you don't know how deep the sand marks will be so, only a few passes can be made at the courser grits before moving up. You can't get as close to the final thickness as quickly with a DS as you can with a planer. If I'm not getting tear-out when using the planer, I'll plane down to final thickness plus 0.050 or so, before heading to the DS. I leave extra thickness is I'm getting tear out, so the DS can sand it out for me.

I would opt for a good planer with a bunch of blades so you can keep then sharp and reduce your hand sanding.

[george wilson]

Do not rely on a drum sander to act efficiently for thicknessing wood. It won't. The better choice is a good thickness planer,and sand the wood afterwards.

[Chip Lindley]

Woodmaster is THE drum sander by which most others are still compared IMO! (And they are made in USA!) I have a pre-owned Grizzly 24", which is *ok* after some tweaking and rebuilding. It was the only decent drum sander available when I had the cash to buy one. DC is a MUST, and the Grizz suffers! Although it captures most airborne dust, a huge pile is dumped off the outfeed constantly. It has its cheap drawbacks. Worst of all is conveyor tracking. A JOKE! My rebuild with *real* take-up bearings fixed that! It is adequate until I can trade-UP to a Woodmaster 38" or shop-build my OWN!

I have scrounged up everything I need to build a BIG DS except the conveyor belting--a big ticket item! The only other expense to me will be machining the large *steel* drum of 6" i.d. pipe, on a 1.5" shaft. I scarfed up a *like-new* Baldor TEFC 10hp single-phase motor years ago for just this purpose, and have some heavy duty Square-D electricals. So......maybe one day......

[Chris Padilla]

Do not rely on a drum sander to act efficiently for thicknessing wood. It won't. The better choice is a good thickness planer,and sand the wood afterwards.

Fully agree. It is a sander...not a thicknesser. If you use it like a planer, you are sure to be disappointed. Besides, if used as a planer, the going is mind-numbingly slow for good results.

[Chris Padilla]

Glenn,
I have the Performax 25x2, and I have the same tracking problem. I think I have the problem narrowed down to the drive shaft on the feed roller that fits into the motor. The shaft is bent. If you watch your motor while it's running, you will see it gently oscillating. Unfortunaltey, I haven't figured out how to fix it yet.:( I've thought about taking it to a machine shop to see if they have any ideas. Supermax/performax has the replacement roller, but it cost $444.:eek:
If you figure yours out, please post your fix.
As to the original question, I use it ALL THE TIME. Even with the tracking problem, I still use it, and when it tracks far enough over that it starts to rub the motor, I loosen everything up, slide it back over and start again. I love my drum sander.

My Delta 18-36's feed/conveyor belt also has tracking issues. The tracking motor also gently oscillates but I don't think that is the problem. The problem is conveyor belt and tensioning it correctly. I think I have finally nailed mine as it now more slowly tracks to the right (to the open end of the DS). It used to track much more quickly. I have a good routine down now in sliding the belt back over in under a minute so it is less bothersome that it was in the beginning...but still annoying overall. :)

[george wilson]

Anyone with a Delta: Be sure to file down the corners of the steel straps holding the rollers. They will snag and ruin the conveyor belt if you don't. A little filing will get them below where they can cut the belt.

[Chris Padilla]

A friend and I are looking at completing the shop in my garage. We are discussing the need and funding for a method of sizing and smoothing resaw lumber. I am of the opinion that we need a DS. As was stated in here, it can be used for thickness and smoothing. My friend thinks a planer is a better choice. My logic is with the DS the sanding is very limited. With a planer you will have to sand. What is the way to go? Funding and space is not available for both.

Marty,

They are different machines designed to do different tasks. I don't think it is a question of either/or. I think it is a question of what you plan to do in your shop. A planer is one of the 4 main large tools in one's wood shop (TS, J, and BS are the other 3).

For example, I resaw lottsa lumber to 3/32" veneers and then drum sand them down to 1/16". I can't reliably do that with a planer, IMO, but my planer (and jointer) is used to clean up rough stock to get it ready for the bandsaw.

[Chris Padilla]

Anyone with a Delta: Be sure to file down the corners of the steel straps holding the rollers. They will snag and ruin the conveyor belt if you don't. A little filing will get them below where they can cut the belt.

Ah! Good idea. If one could get the tracking just so, this shouldn't be an issue but tracking on some of these things is painful to deal with.

[Anthony Whitesell]

I only found it slow because of the constant paper changes. You'd be surprised how fast 36 grit sandpaper will remove material. The DS was much faster and cheaper than the glue-the-runner method of making short boards long enough to fit through the planer.

If you are using the DS to as a planer on a regular basis on material suitable for a planer, then as I mentioned, get a planer and keep the blades sharp.

[Mark Singer]

General 24" double drum ....really great machine

[Chris Padilla]

I only found it slow because of the constant paper changes. You'd be surprised how fast 36 grit sandpaper will remove material. The DS was much faster and cheaper than the glue-the-runner method of making short boards long enough to fit through the planer.

If you are using the DS to as a planer on a regular basis on material suitable for a planer, then as I mentioned, get a planer and keep the blades sharp.

You know, as we all eventually find out, there are many ways to skin a cat. You are correct, the coarser grits can and do hog off decent material and for shorty boards, you have an excellent point.

[Paul Johnstone]

I'm thinking about getting one.

Question: Do they leave anything on the board like snipe?

Yes, it is possible to snipe with a drum sander if you do not use proper technique.

Buy the outfeed/infeed support boards if your Drum Sander has them available.

Also, much like a planer, when you are doing long pieces, you want to slightly lift the outfeed end so that when the infeed roller lets go, the infeed end of the board isn't thrown into the roller.

[Jerome Hanby]

I built my own. I use it for boards under 3 feet long as it doesn't have a power feed (yet). It works great for door panels.

Any pictures? Advise?

I'm collecting goodies to build mine. Will mount and be powered off my Shopsmith Mk V

[mreza Salav]

I have a 29" drum sander that I made. It's powered by a 2HP main motor and another DC gear motor for power feed. The thread is the following:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=87536


112769112770112771112772

I love the way it works and I wish I had built it much earlier.
Some of the cases that it comes real handy is to smooth those thin resawn boards or the rings prepared in segmented turnings (two of the things I couldn't do without it).

[Eric Roberge]

(Serious enthusiast) oscillating spindle sander here. Love mine.

Depends on your application as to a drum or OSS.

Happy wood working!

[Chris Padilla]

I have a 29" drum sander that I made. It's powered by a 2HP main motor and another DC gear motor for power feed. The thread is the following:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=87536

I love the way it works and I wish I had built it much earlier.
Some of the cases that it comes real handy is to smooth those thin resawn boards or the rings prepared in segmented turnings (two of the things I couldn't do without it).

Mighty impressive, Mreza!

[Chris Tsutsui]

mreza, that drum sander is crazy. I don't think I could pull something like that off... heh

As far as dust control. I know not to operate a DS unless I have something more than a shop vac to control the dust. :)

Here's what's currently on my local CL:

Performax 16x32 DS (no price, make offer)
Performax Pro 5HP 210V double drum sander (used 1.5 hrs) $1950 OBO
Ryobi Drum Sander WDS1600: $250
Grizzly G1066 DS: $895 price negotiable
Woodmaster model# 2675 220v: $1500 delivered

I do have an open 50A - 220V outlet in my garage.

The problem is I'm not sure that if I got a 220V DC in the future, would I be able to run it at the same time as a 220V DS... I have to add up the current draw on the two units I guess... Either that, run an extension cord to the kitchen into an electric stove outlet. haha

[Chris Padilla]

Chris, you are likely to not need more than a 240V/20A circuit to handle the DC and to handle a DS. 50 A is for a welder. You almost (maybe) could turn that 50A circuit into a subpanel...if you have a neutral wire...and appropriate space...and probably a few other things I can't think of.

[Chris Tsutsui]

Thanks, that sounds about right.

An interesting find is I measured itwith a multi-meter and it read 249-252V.

I'm not an electrician, but I'm guessing this is normal to measure that voltage.

If i subpanel that out, I will probably get more use out of it. Right now it's just sitting there. I believe it has an electric dryer type of 3 prong outlet. The weird part is the outlet travels via metal conduit up to the rafters in the garage "attic space".

[Byron Trantham]

I have Griz 18/36 DS and a Jet OSS. I use them both. They have their place. :D

[Leigh Betsch]

Woodmaster 38". Industrial quality. Buy used, and don't look back, you won't regret it.

[Christopher Pine]

I use it a gooD BIT. I would have never bought it but... http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=68510

Chris

[Chris Tsutsui]

Yeah I would have pulled the trigger on that too.

I'm waiting for something like that... Or sadly enough.. a cabinet shop goimg out of business getting rid of an industrial model.. sigh*

All too common nowadays.

[Marty Paulus]

Chris,

I understand better now the need for a planer, jointer and drum sander. We have none of them currenly since we currently buy s4s lumber and resaw from there. Based on that I am not sure the planer is the right tool. The DS seems to be more of the right choice for our current needs. However the need for a dust collector is becoming more and more apparent for our small 'shop'. In fact a BS would also help with our resaw work. Another tool I am trying to convince some folks we need. Thanks for your insight on this!

[Jerry Todd]

I would not be without my WoodMaster 25 inch Drum sander. Every time I do a panel glue-up I am reminded how much I use it. Also, a few of my good woodworking buddies bring their glue-ups to my workshop to use the drum sander.

[Chris Padilla]

Chris,

I understand better now the need for a planer, jointer and drum sander. We have none of them currenly since we currently buy s4s lumber and resaw from there. Based on that I am not sure the planer is the right tool. The DS seems to be more of the right choice for our current needs. However the need for a dust collector is becoming more and more apparent for our small 'shop'. In fact a BS would also help with our resaw work. Another tool I am trying to convince some folks we need. Thanks for your insight on this!

So I assume you are resawing on a table saw right now? What is your goal for resawing? Veneer? Breaking down thicker stock? However you resaw, how are you cleaning up the resawn surface right now? ROS or handplane or something?

I buy wide rough lumber whenever I can. Right there, you need a jointer and a planer to handle that but let's skip ahead and assume that I've gotten my rough lumber S4S'ed (face planed, planed, edge-jointed, ripped other edge: S4S) so now you and I are at the same place with our lumber. Once you start resawing (on a bandsaw), you are going to create two rough surfaces. Since I'm creating veneers resawing, I'll drumsand one of the rough surfaces smooth using the planed surface as a reference. Now my previously S4S'ed lumber has 1 rough face. At this point, I send it through the planer again to smooth it out...resaw again...plane...resaw...plane. All my veneers will have one smooth surface doing it this way. If I am very careful with my bandsaw set up and resawing technique, I shouldn't have to plane much off to make a new smooth surface. Of course, I could drumsand instead of planing to create a new smooth surface...but it will be slower.

So after all that, it sure sounds like you could do ok with a drum sander or widebelt sander instead of a planer.

And, YES, you must have good dust collection with any powered largish sander but the same is true with a planer so you need it either way.

[Stephen Edwards]

I worked for years without a drum sander. Now that I have one I'd sure miss it if it were gone. As others have said, it's generally not a thickness planer. But it's great for its intended purpose.

I work quite a bit with eastern red cedar, which has very irregular grain patterns and subject to blowout on the jointer or planer when face planing . Most of the cedar lumber that I buy is from a local mill that resaws cants with an industrial sized BS. When I order 1 1/8" thick boards, I get 1 1/8 boards, right on the money, end to end. (You should see that saw spit the boards out. Amazing to watch!).

I sticker them and let them air dry. When they're dry and I'm ready to do a project I cut the boards to a rough length and rip to a rough width. Hardly ever do I use more than a 48" inch length. So far, they're always flat enough that I don't have to face plane a face to begin prepping the boards. This is where the drum sander is a BIG help for me. I'll surface one side of the boards with the DS. Then put that side against the fence on the bandsaw using tall feather boards and resaw to the finished thickness plus appx 1/16 or 1/8. Then it's back to the DS to get it down to the finish thickness. I can resaw 12".

Yes, it's slow. Get a stool to sit on and something to read while you're sanding the boards! The upside is that I no longer have blowouts and voids to deal with when working with cedar. I've heard that OP use their DS for the same purpose when working with other highly figured woods, which I have little experience with.

I use my jointer and planer more than I do the DS. But for certain species I've found it to be invaluable.