is there an equivalent to the 5-cut test for rip fence?

[Tyler Davis]

I have used a dial caliper to align the blade to the mitre slot. Then checked the mitre gauge using the 5-cut method. Then I aligned the fence to the mitre slot using the caliper. I would like to check it with a test cut. Is there any way to magnify the error on a pice of wood to determine its tolerance?

[Rod Sheridan]

Yes, rip a board, then rip it again 1/2" smaller using the same side against the fence.

If your rip is parallel, and there isn't any burning, you're OK.

I set the fence out a few thou at the outfeed end........Rod.

[Brian Kerley]

It's not really needed for a rip fence because you are making a cut parallel to your reference face. As long as your rip fence is straight, you're cut will be parallel. It may go through the blade, slightly skewed, but it'll be parallel, not to mention that most guys like to have their fence kicked out a little at the end to mitigate kickback. The reason you need to do the 5-cut for the miter gauge is not to make sure that you are square to the blade, but to make sure the fence of your miter gauge is 90 degrees to the miter slot. If the miter slot is not parallel to the blade it won't affect anything except for cut quality, and even then you'd have to be out by a bunch to make it affect anything. I'm convinced that products like the TS aligner are not really needed. As long as your slot is fairly parallel (which can be done with a regular ruler) with the blade, you'll be ok.

[Nissim Avrahami]

You can try this method
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=89490

Works perfect for me

Regards
niki