Pardon my Ignorance by I have a couple of Plane(r) questions

[Michael Parr]

I see a lot of discussion about the different makers of hand planers and I understand the difference between the expensive and the cheap ones. I want to explain what I want to use a plane for and the basic step I know I have to take:

I am going to order a Work Sharp 3000 system. I know with this system almost sharpen any blade can be made scary sharp (or at least attempt to)

Task #1
I want to have the ability to glue narrow planks together. I can use my router or even the Festool Hand Planer to edge join the boards. The problem is when we do edge plane boards we get cupping or twisting or boeing of boards. I have 0 plans of adding a thickness planner (Garage is too small and wife wants to see nothing big). What is the best type of Planer to do this singular task.

Task #2
I would like to finish most of the board without having to do a lot of sanding. I have seen talk of this but then I am not sure what hand planer to use.

I am looking for type and technique. There is almost too much information and I am looking for more of a type of planer and then I can take from the other forum posts what is the best (or we can start a new post once we answer).

[Jim Koepke]

This could depend on the final dimensions you will have after the glue up.

For smaller pieces, one might want a smaller plane.

If you are making larger panels, then a bigger plane might be better.

It also depends on the amount of distortion you get from the glue up.

Usually the boards are made flat before the glueing.

The #5 is a very versatile plane for a lot of tasks. That is why it is called a Jack plane, as in Jack of all trades.

jim

[James G. Jones]

Michael,

I would recommend you search for Christopher Schwartz's "Coarse, medium, fine" for the question on squaring up your stock. He does the best job explaining I've seen. Unfortunately, one plane doesn't do it all well. It usually takes a process of first rough squaring and sizing it, second making it flat and square, and third making it smooth. Generally this requires a fore or scrub plane (#6 or #40 by the Stanley #'s), jointer plane (#7 or #8), and a smooth plane (#3 or #4). The smooth plane does the job of your question #2, making it smooth and even.

I've got to confess, I don't frequently go the whole route of flattening by hand planes however. The thickness planer is just way too quick for steps 1 and 2 above. Make sure you search this forum though, It has been explained in detail by much better teachers than me.

Good luck,
James

[Carl Maeda-San Diego]

I would just get the #5 Jack plane. A nifty trick I picked up a long long time ago is to clamp the boards together with the face sides together and joint both boards at the same time. This way, if you accidently skew the plane, both boards will still fit together like a glove when you edge glue them together.
You can also use the #5 to smooth boards as well although a #4 or #4 1/2 will work better.

[John Keeton]

Veritas bevel up jack - most versatile plane I own! Get at least 2 blades, if not all 3. It will work very well as a smoother.