wood warps when ripped

[joe milana]

Why does every piece of birch or maple warp when I rip? If I pick out nice straight pieces of S4S and use as is, I am fine, But if I purchase wider boards and rip to width, I get severe warping. I try to pick out nice straight grained pieces, but always the same result. I'm guessing it's a drying issue or what I have heard called "case hardened"

[glenn bradley]

I occasionally get a board that "stress relieves" when cut. Generally it is mild enough to not make a problem by the time the wood is milled to finished size. If it is a regular problem as opposed to the exception I would change suppliers. The material is not being handled properly.

[David DeCristoforo]

"If it is a regular problem...change suppliers...material is not being handled properly.."

Ditto. It may be that you just got some wood from a unit that was not properly dried. If this is happening time after time with different orders from the same source, then you do need to start buying your wood elsewhere. Or at least talk to your supplier about it.

[joe milana]

I will mention it to them and see if I can get a response. The last batch of their "best" american made birch ply was not the best I have seen either. It was out of square about 3/16" across the width. Sign of the times?

[Joe Jensen]

This is why I moved to rough sawn stock and a jointer and planer. I suspect this isn't possible in your case.

If you are having this problem with all the boards, then they were not properly dried. You should try a different supplier. Also, as you select boards at purchase, look at the grain on the end. The more perpendicular it is to the face, the less the board should move when ripped...joe

[joe milana]

I'm not sure where to get the rough sawn lumber. I spend "hours" picking out the straightest grain pieces I can find. I'm surprised the straight stuff I buy stays straight If used as is, but as soon as it's ripped....forget it.

[Joe Jensen]

I'm not sure where to get the rough sawn lumber. I spend "hours" picking out the straightest grain pieces I can find. I'm surprised the straight stuff I buy stays straight If used as is, but as soon as it's ripped....forget it.

Where are you buying?

[joe milana]

Local suppliers here in KC. All have been around for a long time. I don't think any of these companies do their own drying. They order in all their hardwood/exotics and do some custom milling (molding, etc.)

[george wilson]

Sounds like the wood has been "case hardened" by kiln drying too rapidly. This releases all the stresses when it is sawn,or resawn,causing severe warping.

[joe milana]

I think you are right George, from what I have been reading but how do I know if I am not getting more of the same from another supplier? I have tried all three suppliers in my local area and seem to get the same results.

[Rick Lucrezi]

There are several ways to dry lumber. The best for quality is slow air drying of rough sawn boards. What I see alot of now is the wood is cut to dimension and then kiln dried. We have a local mill that has a quick dry kiln, the wood is all differnt sizes because they dry after its cut, and I have ripped 1x12 that literally curves off the saw. I end up planing, and jointing every piece. The same mill offers rough sawn air dried and believe it or not its the same price. I buy it anyway because its the only way I know I will get the correct size I want. Last week end I made 100 gallons of saw dust and wood chips from planning. :eek: I need to fiqure out how to glue it all up and make my own chip board;)

[Ben Cadotte]

There is a possibility all 3 of the supliers are getting their material from the same place. When I was in college I worked at a lumber yard for 3 years. We bought materials from the same suppliers as the other 5-6 yards in the same area. Small / small chain yards buy by price. When one supplier has the best price. Most people order from them. It also happens with smaller yards that they may go in together to make a larger purchase to get the larger discount. And most of the time if one has extra of something and another needs something they will sell to the other for mimnimal mark up.

I have stopped buying from normal supliers for the majority of my wood. I now go to a local farm that does their own cutting and air drying. Of course they don't have exotics. But they have a really good selection of the majority of wood I use most frequently. Their price is almost 2x less than a local wood suplier that I go to for woods I can't get from the farm.

[James Hendrix]

I purchased some Maple from Metro Woods and several pieces has the same issue. Also bought a large 8/4 poplar and was ripping 2" for table legs and the warpage is so severe I can use them for rockers now.

Where else have you been buying from? I am only aware of Shute and Paxton besides Metro.

[joe milana]

James, those are the three suppliers I have tried. I bet they all get their wood from the same sources. I have heard good things about a supplier in
Springfield but cant remember the name. I will look into it.

[James Hendrix]

If you can work with unsurfaced, there is a mill near St Joseph. I think it's called Simpson Woods. I went there about a year ago and took a look at their operations. I am planning on placing my first order next week. I will report back after I plane and rip the lumber with my results.

[joe milana]

Thanks, I may head up there tomorrow!

[Leo Vogel]

I would like to go to KC to look at some wood. Does Shute, Paxton or Metro have a open yard that you can look at the wood?

[joe milana]

Schutte and metro have indoor inventory you can pick and choose from (for hardwoods and exotics). Paxton is strictly commercial now.