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Joe Pfeifer
03-09-2009, 11:26 AM
I've been asked to turn 75 wood bottle stoppers as favors for my sisters wedding. I would like to add a flat insert (about 1 1/4" round) at the top out of white acrylic/ alternate ivory and have them engraved with the bride and groom name, date, and maybe two hearts in the center. Just taking a quick look at some sites, they are charging a set-up fee and/or custom design fees. What software programs can I use to design the layout to avoid some of that cost? Also, I don't even know if it will fit in the budget. What would be a price range for something like this? I am near Chicago, if that makes a difference. Thanks for you help!

George Brown
03-09-2009, 12:15 PM
I've been asked to turn 75 wood bottle stoppers as favors for my sisters wedding. I would like to add a flat insert (about 1 1/4" round) at the top out of white acrylic/ alternate ivory and have them engraved with the bride and groom name, date, and maybe two hearts in the center. Just taking a quick look at some sites, they are charging a set-up fee and/or custom design fees. What software programs can I use to design the layout to avoid some of that cost? Also, I don't even know if it will fit in the budget. What would be a price range for something like this? I am near Chicago, if that makes a difference. Thanks for you help!
Send the info over, and I'll set it up for you. You can pm me.

Dave Johnson29
03-09-2009, 12:46 PM
What software programs can I use to design the layout to avoid some of that cost? ... What would be a price range for something like this?

Hi Joe, Pretty much any graphics package could do this. But if you want the text curved to follow the disk edge then something like Corel is required to Fit Text To Path. I think they have had that in Corel since about version 5. Maybe you can get an early copy from somewhere for not many bucks.

Pricing: If a customer asked me for this, I would charge about $2.50 a piece for 100 including simple artwork. If the customer supplied the artwork, then $2.00 each. That would include cutting them out as well as engraving them.

The cost of the acrylic would be extra and I have no idea how much that would be.

Also, being in white, you would want to paint fill the engraving to make it clearly visible. That would add maybe another $1.00 each but that is something you could do yourself and save a hundred bucks. You could have them engraved with the protective film in place then you can easily paint fill and remove the film when the paint is dry.

Hope that helps.

Bill Cunningham
03-10-2009, 9:35 PM
Or, just use white Romark engraves what ever...(blue, red, black.. etc)

Mike Null
03-10-2009, 11:37 PM
Art should be a minimal expense for this job.

I think I would have them reverse engraved using a white second surface then just spray the color you want on the backs. You'll have the white surface and a color fill that can't be touched. It's a much classier look and they'll wonder how you did it.

Dave Johnson29
03-11-2009, 10:33 AM
I think I would have them reverse engraved using a white second surface then just spray the color you want on the backs. You'll have the white surface and a color fill that can't be touched. It's a much classier look and they'll wonder how you did it.

Mike,

I am not sure I understand this process. Is this it?

Engrave with reverse letting on clear acrylic.
Paint fill and clean off excess.
Glue a white disc to the engraved side of the acrylic.

What about skipping the last bit and spray the back white after paint filling? Would that work?

Or even easier, paint it white before engraving, engrave through the white paint, then spray the engraving with the paint fill color?

George Brown
03-11-2009, 11:12 AM
Mike,

I am not sure I understand this process. Is this it?



Good, I couldn't follow it either, but thought it was just me.

Mike Null
03-11-2009, 11:25 AM
Sorry, if you'll check the new Johnson Plastics catalog on page 59 you'll find reverse engravable stock. This is clear plastic which has been painted on the back side. You engrave the back side through the paint then spray your color fill.

The picture show an example of some labels I recently made for identifying pictures in a hospital.

Notice that the visible area is white with black lettering, Before I did the spray color fill the back was white.

Colleges, banks and hospitals have been my customers for this labeling.

Dave Johnson29
03-11-2009, 11:42 AM
This is clear plastic which has been painted on the back side. You engrave the back side through the paint then spray your color fill.


Thanks Mike,

As per my last sentence, :) once again I come up a with a good idea about 3 months after someone else is already marketing it. :eek:

Paul Brinkmeyer
03-11-2009, 12:25 PM
Mike,
How is this material as far as scratching is concerned?
Does it scratch easily or is it fairly durable.

Thanks

Stephen Beckham
03-11-2009, 1:48 PM
Joe - have you thought about the Flexibrass route or even sublimation route? You could have a 1" disc or a 1 1/2" disk sublimated with what ever on it.

On the flexibrass, you could have it cut to size and etched at the same time and it gives you all kinds of options for color.

Price? Gosh - 75 little discs? Substrate could cost pennies each, engraving not much more - you're going to run up against minimums of artwork and/or materials more than actual costs on something that small...... Just my opinion...

Mike Null
03-11-2009, 4:41 PM
Paul

I use a matte finish and the scratching appears to be minimal. My applications have all been institutional and I haven't had to replace any.

I cut them with the plastic protection still on and ship them that way.

Scott Shepherd
03-11-2009, 5:04 PM
once again I come up a with a good idea about 3 months after someone else is already marketing it. :eek:

Try about 15 years too late ;)

You guys really should get some catalogs. It is 2009, ya know? If you don't have a Johnson Plastics and JDS Plastics catalog and you're in the laser engraving business, wake up!!!!

Paul Brinkmeyer
03-11-2009, 5:56 PM
Paul

I use a matte finish and the scratching appears to be minimal. My applications have all been institutional and I haven't had to replace any.

I cut them with the plastic protection still on and ship them that way.

I have tried some reverse engrave matterial from Rowmark and did the paint fill thing, but they just did not look as clear as yours. So now I went to my IP sample book, and yes, they do look like they are clearer.
Of course the rowmark samples are glued in the book, so you can not really look at them the same way for comparisons.

I think I will order in a sheet of IP to try the next time I order in material.
Mike, what material would you recomend to trying first?

Thanks.

Mike Null
03-11-2009, 6:07 PM
I use LZR902M in both 1/16" and 1/8" thicknesses. I use the thicker material for jobs where the sign size is bigger and where they want to fasten them with mechanical fasteners. The others are mounted with tape.

Hilton Lister
03-12-2009, 1:18 AM
I have no trouble getting a clean finish when engraving reverse IPI or Rowmark with the rotary, but find that the laser gives a cloudy result unless it is out of focus by about 1mm.

Scott Shepherd
03-12-2009, 7:08 AM
You can get a near clear result, but it'll take some messing with. I do a lot of reverse engraving. I've got it dialed in fairly well so the result is almost clear. I've found that less DPI is better on my machine.

Paul Brinkmeyer
03-12-2009, 8:51 AM
I use LZR902M in both 1/16" and 1/8" thicknesses. I use the thicker material for jobs where the sign size is bigger and where they want to fasten them with mechanical fasteners. The others are mounted with tape.

Thanks Mike I would have never tried to mount with tape after painting either, but that must work too.

Thanks to ALL for the ideas.

Paul