Clamping problem

[Keith Nordyke]

I am about to complete a 72" by 24" set of shelves for a pantry door. To add more space, my wife has "commissioned" this project. The beast is dovetailed and I don't have any clamps that will span the 72". Any thoughts as to how to clamp this thing during glue up? I really need to be able to pull it together length wise so I can square it up. Thanks

[David Myers]

There was a reader's tip in FWW in the past year or two that addressed a similar problem.

The solution was to take a scrap board that is shorter than the long dimension of the cabinet, bore holes near both ends to provide enough area purchase for clamps (the illustration IIRC showed two F-style clamps), then apply pressure at both ends.

[Prashun Patel]

I am about to complete a 72" by 24" set of shelves for a pantry door. To add more space, my wife has "commissioned" this project. The beast is dovetailed and I don't have any clamps that will span the 72". Any thoughts as to how to clamp this thing during glue up? I really need to be able to pull it together length wise so I can square it up. Thanks

This may not be the purest solution, but it might work if nothing else will:

Pocket screws. For the shelves below eye height, drill the holes underneath the shelves. For the shelves above eye height, drill the holes on the top of the shelves. If the holes bug you, you can plug them.

[Robert Rozaieski]

Good fitting dovetails don't need clamping. I never clamp dovetailed cases. If you need to pull across the diagonals to square up the case, lay the case on it's back and put the long diagonal against a wall and gently push onthe opposite corner. Once the case is square according to diagonal measurements, let it sit on it's back until the glue sets. I've done cases almost 8' tall this way.

[Bill Houghton]

The solution was to take a scrap board that is shorter than the long dimension of the cabinet, bore holes near both ends to provide enough area purchase for clamps (the illustration IIRC showed two F-style clamps), then apply pressure at both ends.

You can also take a board longer than the dimension you need to clamp by enough for a cleat on one end and a cleat with room for wedges on the other. Use what the British call "folding wedges," two wedges with the same taper, driven in opposing directions, so that the net effect is a flat board of ever-increasing thickness. Those packs of carpenter's shims that every home center and lumberyard carries would be ideal (though I've found quality varies - lumberyard probably better, especially if it's one that contractors use).

[Steve Clardy]

If you have some pipe clamps, put the movable ends together.

[Robert Rozaieski]

If you really feel you have to clamp it you could also use a Spanish windlass system with just some rope and a scrap stick.

[harry strasil]

In all the old WWing Books, they show and refer to CRAMPING, which I think is where our modern CLAMPING comes from. Just take a couple of Cauls (scraps) longer than the dimension you want to put the squeeze on and fasten a short Caul 90 degrees to one end and then after cutting a scrap at an angle, screw anotherr short caul to the other end at the same angle as the wedges and then just drive the wedge in till its tight.

Cauls, Scantlings, both old terms for scrap lumber or Culls. And when using Wedges you are Cramping things into alignment.

[Roger Savatteri]

If some of the clamps you have are the Bessey K bodies,

there are "extenders" available for them that combine two K bodies together.

In the photo below I combined several old style Besey K bodies to new Bessey Revo K bodies to reach a length of just over 11 feet for a dining room table I am making for a client.

cheers,
Roger

K body extenders..... http://www.hartvilletool.com/product/12497

[george wilson]

Cramping is the English word for clamping. Scantlings can also mean measurements.

[Christopher Dowie]

What about a ratcheting strap to use as a clamp. Wrap it around and ratchet it tight. I've seen some guys make wooden corners to go under the straps to help keep the corners in alignment.

Apply pressure from all sides with each strap clamp.

Not my idea, but I bought ratcheting straps because I think it's a good idea.

Flexible to many applications.

Christopher

[Tom Adger]

Going back to the original question, get couple of sets of Pony pipe clamps. Get the 3/4" size. This pipe comes in any length you need. Make sure it is threaded on both ends. Get a couple of couplers, so you can thread together the lengths you need. I generally use the 36" length as standard, then add lengths as I need them.

[harry strasil]

Ridgid Conduit Couplings work best as the have hardly any taper and mate up full without the use of pipe wrenches.

[harry strasil]

Pipe clamp user tip, get some scraps of plastic pipe that will slide over the pipe, cut into 4 or 6 inch pieces and slip over the pipe, it keeps the pipe from coming into contact with your wood, you can also position them over glue joints to keep you pipes clean and also there is no stain from the glue and the pipe coming in contact.