Best Drill Bits - advice please

[Brian Kent]

OK, what I really need is a better drill press, but meanwhile I need some new bits. I started out buying whatever was cheapest. Last night I threw out about 50 various bits and kept the 20+ that were sharp and did not wobble.

Please check me out and give me your experienced advice

I kept a small forstner set from Rockler. What has worked for you when I need more.

Do I need spade bits if I have forstners? What has worked well for you? I have seen some recommendations for Irwins here, even though they are cheaper than others.

I have seen top recommendations for Lee Valley brad point bits, so I'll plan on building a set from them.

I see recommendations for cobalt bits for steel. I only drill metals occasionally, but in the past I have used cheap, wobbly, dull bits that just make a mess and screech loudly. What brand of cobalt bits or other bits for occasional metal drilling?

[Mike Wellner]

http://www.norsemandrill.com/Catalog_Index.html

[Daniel Thompson]

The premium brad point bits from Lee Valley are excellent. Those are my preferred bits for drilling small to medium size holes (up to 1/2 inch) in wood. I don't use spade bits much except for things like installing lock sets in doors (along with a hole saw for the big hole). For regular twist drill bits you can get good ones from a machine shop source like Enco. They sell both budget import as well as better quality domestic bits.

[David Song]

I have Porters brad points. I got them after reading an artical where it had better performed when tested. I think Porter had less runout and cleaner cut comapred to LV.

[David G Baker]

Brian,
Dewalt and some other manufacturers make pilot point bits for metal but I use them for many wood projects. I use spade bits once in a while and forstners quite a lot.
If you drill metal you need cutting oil when drilling. The oil will make the bit last longer, the drilled hole much neater, the bit will drill much faster and the noise will disappear.

[jon hamer]

I got frustrated with my set of Chinese 'titanium' peanut butter bits and bought a basic set of Triumph Thunderbits. These are HSS, not cobalt, but I've drilled many holes in steel and cast iron and have had excellellent results. They start easily (don't walk all over), cut fast and don't require much pressure. I got my set at a local Big Box (Mill's Fleet Farm). I notice they're quite expensive on Amazon, so you might want to try a Big Box instead. These bits are made in the USA.

Triumph:
http://www.triumphtwistdrill.com/products/products.asp

Jon Hamer
Southern Minnesota

[Thomas Canfield]

A set of brad point bits by 1/64" from 1/8" up to 1/2" is a good start. Rockler had a set for $20 yesterday on Deal of the Day and I ordered a set to replace a cheap set that I have been using for the last 10+ years that still do reasonably well. The brad point works really well for wood and gives a much cleaner hole than the metal bits even when they are sharp. Metal bits should be used on metal.

A set of Forstner bits is also very handy. A set by 1/8" up to 2 1/4" can be bought fairly cheap and work well for most work. I have added a set of the 1/16" fill in bits later for the times when you really need to get closer to size than the 1/8" increments allow. The spade bits still have a place. but I go to the Forstner bits for clean cut when possible especially using the drill press.

One key to using drill bits is using the proper speed for the bits. Get (or use the chart that comes with the drill) a chart showing the proper speed for the different drill bit size and type. A slow speed will not give a proper cut, and a high speed can be dangerous with the larger diameter bits. The seconds it takes to change the speed pays off with quality and safety.

[Bill Wyko]

I buy the Harbor Freight bits and a good sharpener. I loose too many to spend big money on bits and the Drill Doctor is so easy to use that I always have sharp bits anyway.

[Scott T Smith]

+1 re the recommendation for a Darex Drill Doctor. It's the best way to sharpen bits that I've found.

Re drilling steel, you do not need cobalt bits unless you're planning to drill hardened steel.

Buy bits for steel from a reputable machinist supply house. Everything that they sell should be an excellent grade. Cincinnati twist and Greenfield are two brands that are excellent. J&L Industrial Supply is a good online source. I would not recommend the "bargain" shops for a high grade steel bit (such as HF or Enco).

I have some Eppico Magnum bits that I purchased 20 years ago, and they still work great. They are good not only for mild steel but also spring steel and stainless steel - both difficult to drill materials.

[Dewey Torres]

+1 for the Rockler set
I have been on a crusade to rid my shop of crap tools of late:

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10627&filter=brad%20point%20bits


These are very sharp all the way down the length of the bit and comes in a nice case that lifts up.

Worth every penny!

[Dewey Torres]

I buy the Harbor Freight bits and a good sharpener. I loose too many to spend big money on bits and the Drill Doctor is so easy to use that I always have sharp bits anyway.

Awe come on Bill. I have seen you shop. You appear very organized on camera. I can't believe you are losing bits.:)

[Brian Kent]

I see what looks like a good starter set of Enco Cobalt bits made in USA for $22. Add some cutting oil for $10.
13 bits: 1/16" to 1/4" by 64th's.
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=890-8844&PMPXNO=3463188&PARTPG=INLMK32

Then I can get a boxed set of 12 Lee Valley Brad Points, 5/64 to 1/4" for $42.75.
I already have a couple of 3/8" brad points.

This, along with my small set of forstners from Rockler should get me started for an affordable cost.

Am I missing any obvious sizes for regular use (furniture and hand-tool making)?

[Sue Wise]

As far as spade vs. forstners, I find that depending upon what I need to drill, I occasionally need spades. For example, when I was drilling dogholes, forstners just wouldn't do the job. I just buy a cheap spade for the just job at hand when I need it.

I do have a nice set of LV and Fuller brad points. These are the bits I use the most. I also have a cheap set of forstners that will do the job, but nothing exciting. I will buy additional good forstner bits for the sizes that I use the most.

-Sue

[Pete Shermet]

I ususally wait until a major WW show if it isn't a specialized bit. But since buying them at the show even the "dull ones" cut better than some of my new unused bits. These are bits that they use in the aircraft industry, My Dad, used to work for AV Roe, Hawker Siddley, Dehaviland, MacDonald Douglas,bought out by Boeing.
Try Here.
http://www.bitlady.com/
no affilliation
Best Regards
Pete

[J. Z. Guest]

One thing some people don't know is that spade bits are meant to be used at high speed, not low speed like other types of large diameter bits. I bought a set of Irwins with sharp tips on the "wings". They cut like mad when they get going (2500 RPM with my corded drill) and they make a pretty clean hole. In a drill press, though, they are no good. They have the hex shank and the tip wobbles around probably 1/8". Save brad points for a hand drill and carpentry type work.

Forstners and brad points are more appropriate for woodworking.

The brad points I bought were the carbide-tipped ones from... (drawing a blank, the main competitor for Rockler...)

They seem pretty good, but they do require more push than a good twist drill bit. I don't know if that is inherent to the design or if these are crummy bits and I just don't know it yet. :) I had two other types of brad point bits prior to this, and neither of them worked as easily as twist drill bits.

I like the idea of cobalt or titanium-nitride coated bits. Even in wood, they won't need to be sharpened as often. The only problem is that if you break off a cobalt bit in a hole somewhere, (like into a bolt whose head you've twisted off) there's no way in hell to get it out.

[Chris Tsutsui]

I use Milwaukee 48-89-1120 20 Piece Black & Bronze Drill Bit Set. The shanks don't spin inside a chuck due to the sides flattened. In addition, the set includes a 1/2" bit.

It's 135 degree split point though I use a spring loaded center punch to start my holes.

Or the titanium coated Milwaukee drill bits are also great. These sets are on sale at Lowes/HD.

Like a lot of others... I bought the huge titanium coated Harbor Freight set and those are good for like 5-10 holes in wood, then they start to dull. I've also bent like 6 of them. It's like they make those out of soft metal or something. I'll keep them as backup bits.

Rather than a drill doctor, I use flat side of an 8" bench grinder and steady hand.

[keith ouellette]

I bought a cheap set from harbor freight. It was the 115 piece set like this one but they were coated.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=528


I do al lot of things that are not woodworking and have used a number of these bits to drill holes in steel. The have held up very well. The steel I've drilled has been in the 1/8th thickness variety and the bits stayed sharp and still drilled wood just fine.

It may seem like a lot of bits but I like to have the exact size I need when I need it.

[Myk Rian]

I have one of the Dewalt brad point bit sets. Nice drills, but you had better have the stock clamped down. They will pull right through and spin anything like a top.

[Doug Hobkirk]

Most of us can only discuss what we have personally used. It's vastly better when a whole bunch of different products are compared in head-to-head testing. FWW mag tested brad point drills - they drilled a LOT of holes! The Lee Valley set (as already recommended above) won convincingly. I haven't seen any tests on other style bits.



I find good Forstner bits essential.
I like spade bits for occasional special situations. I highly recommend spade bits that have a cutting point on the outside edge.
I was very impressed by the cobalt bit set I got many years ago from Snap-On but I haven't bought any recently, even though that set is pretty depleted now.
It's also quite nice to get a number of 1/8 and 1/4 bits in bulk - they can be pretty cheap on eBay - I often just dip into the bin rather than take a nice bit out of my drill bit sets (I toss it the first time one of these stock-piled bits doesn't cut well).
I also bought a large set of cheap brad point bits (although they did have the points on the outer edge) so I could afford to have some larger bits for those rare occasions when I want to drill a 5/8 (or whatever) hole where a Forstner wouldn't work.

[Tom Esh]

...Do I need spade bits if I have forstners?...


Aside from being cheap, spades are nice when you don't need the precision of a forstner or you need a little extra reach or just don't want to wear out the more pricey forstners. Spades with the spur cutters leave a pretty clean entry too. I'd stay away from the auger point type unless you're only drilling through-holes, like with rough-in work.

[glenn bradley]

Well let's see . . .

I almost never use split point bits anymore so even though I have been close several times, I still don't have a Drill Doctor (but they are great). I just touch these up on the grinder or with a diamond stick.

I'm in the LV brad point club. Definitely the best I've tried (but I have not tried them all by a long shot). That lipped spur is hard to beat for s clean entrance and exit.

112491

Freud is my "go to" for Forstner but I do have a cheap set that I got from Woodcraft a couple years ago and with just a few touch-ups, they are still going strong. Lowe's has stopped carrying Frued Forstners and switched to a Porter Cable badged Chinese cutter that I have not tried (or expect to).

As you can see from the many responses, once you find what works for you, it is not often that you change without a compelling reason.

[Brian Kent]

Glenn, do you often use sizes over 1/4" in the Lee Valley Brad Points?

I don't know if the set of 12 from 5/64 to 1/4 is better, or the set of 7 from 1/8" to 1/2". Same general price range.

I make furniture and tools.

Brian

[Brian Kent]

Thank you for all of your great advice.

I bought the Lee Valley set of HSS Brad Points set of 7 (1/8" to 1/2") and the 13 piece (1/16" to 1/4" by 64ths) HSS Triumph Twist Drills from Lee Valley.

If the Brad Point set of 29 goes on sale at Rocklers again someday for $20, I wouldn't mind picking it up just for the odd sizes. Likewise with the 31 piece "best buy" forstners from Grizzly for $55.

Meanwhile I have the starters on the way for my good stuff so I'll be able to tell the difference between top level and BIG BOX.

Again, thanks.

Brian

[William M Johnson]

I am primarily a machinist and have drilled many holes in metal. I use cheap bits at home with very good success. Most of that success is attributable to the Darex Drill Doctor. I also have their commerical drill sharpener. The cheap blue drill doctor is better than their expensive sharpener. I know I will step on some toes here but,,, drill bits cannot be sharpened by hand ( by anyone uner the age of 70 who hasn't been a machinist for 50 years:)). Yea they will drill a hole, but it won't be round, at least not enough for precision work.

Buy cheap drills and a Drill Doctor, it is fast, easy and precise. And it does split points easily.

Bill

[george wilson]

I sharpen drills down to 1/64",and have been doing so for many years. Making a blanket statement that drills cannot be sharpened by hand isn't the best thing to say. We do not know who all is in the forum,or what their talents may be.

I certainly do agree that it does take developed skill,and a good eye for angles,etc..

[Brian Kent]

I sharpen drills down to 1/64",and have been doing so for many years. Making a blanket statement that drills cannot be sharpened by hand isn't the best thing to say. We do not know who all is in the forum,or what their talents may be.

I certainly do agree that it does take developed skill,and a good eye for angles,etc..

1/64"? That's a short drill bit! :D

[Bill Wyko]

Awe come on Bill. I have seen you shop. You appear very organized on camera. I can't believe you are losing bits.:)



HAHAAAA you're killin me. I have a gremlin that takes scrapers, drill bits, various pieces of wood, screw drivers, chisels and the lil sucker must have a thousand pencils.:D:D:D:D:D:D

[Brian Kent]

My beautiful bits arrived - all HSS from Lee Valley - 7 Brad Point and 13 Triumph twists.

And what's the first bit needed?

Cobalt - not HSS:(.

Alas, I will go buy one lone cobalt bit to cut through some spring steel to mount a saw handle.:rolleyes:

[glenn bradley]

Glenn, do you often use sizes over 1/4" in the Lee Valley Brad Points?

I don't know if the set of 12 from 5/64 to 1/4 is better, or the set of 7 from 1/8" to 1/2". Same general price range.

I make furniture and tools.

Brian

I do but they aren't LV's. I have a cheap-o set that I got just to see what I really would use. My thinking is that they are pricey and I would just get those few that I used most.

It turns out I very rarely use anything over 3/8" and I already have a 7/16" that was for a special piece. That being said I plan to pick up an 11/32" and a 9/32" as that is what I use for pre-drilling befir I square out peg holes.

[Todd Pretty]

+1 for the LV Brad Tip bits. I started with a 1/2" to pre-drill for custom made plugs, and I was so impressed with it, that I'm buying the whole set. I've also been pretty impressed with Milwaukee's drill bits, I've got them in my truck and use them for metal and rougher drilling in wood.

I've gone away from spade tip bits, instead I use a set of bits from Irwin, I forgotten their name, but they are a combo spur bit / spade bit / auger, w/ a threaded center point. The spurs leave very clean holes, and they are ridiculously fast. I've used them for holes that are later plugged in timber framing, and I put about 200 3/4" holes through 5 1/4" LVL beams (ply beams) I thought that I'd have to replace that bit, but it is still going strong. That set goes up to 1 1/4", I think.

Anything larger then that and it is LV Forstener or Sawtooth Bits, or Milwaukee hole saws, depending on the application. The Milwaukee bi-metal is a great starter set for larger holes, as the entire set is about the same price as a large forstener bit.