Electrical Wiring EXT 60 W

[Dave Russell Smith]

Read the manual for electrical wiring on this beast and they recommend 240 v dedicated circuit, Are there any people out there running their laser on a 110 v dedicated circuit and is this a problem.

[James Stokes]

If you try to run that laser on 110 you will end up causing yourself a lot of headaches and chances are Epilog will not cover the damage you do. I would not try it.

[Dave Russell Smith]

If you try to run that laser on 110 you will end up causing yourself a lot of headaches and chances are Epilog will not cover the damage you do. I would not try it.

Ok went to Lowes and will set it up for a 240v 15amp dedicated circuit, thanks for the info

[Richard Rumancik]

I hunted for an Epilog EXT manual and found this statement in the Legend EXT manual (I assume this is the one in question):

"Connecting Electrical Power

What voltage should be supplied to the laser?
All Epilog laser systems have an auto-switching power supply that detects the incoming voltage and automatically switches itself to operate properly at any single­phase voltage between 100 and 240 VAC. The power supply will also automatically compensate for either 50 or 60 Hz.


While the 60 and 75 watt EXT models can operate on 110 volts, we recommended using 208/220/240 volt electrical power to achieve maximum performance."


I don't see anything here that would suggest damage to the equipment using 120VAC. And the phrase "achieve maximum performance" is rather vague.


Dave, if you don't mind doing the 240VAC wiring then go ahead, but it doesn't appear mandatory. I would get clarification from Epilog what "maximum performance" means. Seems to me either a 120VAC/15A line works or it doesn't; there usually isn't an in-between with this kind of equipment. A dedicated circuit whether 120VAC or 240 is certainly advantageous, and is mandatory for 120VAC. The manual doesn't actually seem to specify the actual current draw of the various models. I would estimate that a 60 watt tube should not take more than 850 or 900 watts. This still leaves quite a bit of margin left for the rest of the electronics (mainboard and motor drivers.)

Don't forget about adding power surge suppression regardless of which path you take. For 240VAC you will need an industrial style suppressor.

[Peck Sidara]

Good find Richard.

The EXT 60W can run off either 110V or 220V. If your application requires mostly vector cutting using 100% power, then we recommend 220V as you'll be pulling less amperage/less likely to pop a breaker than when compared to 110V.

Using either won't void your warranty and is safe.

[Dave Johnson29]

Seems to me either a 120VAC/15A line works or it doesn't; there usually isn't an in-between with this kind of equipment.


Hi Richard,

The problem here in the US is that most 110v outlets are rated at 15A. If there is another appliance on that circuit then it is likely that the circuit breaker will pop under heavy load as Peck has mentioned.

Most modern houses and garages (often the laundry is in the garage) now have 220v - 30A available at the back of the stove (even if it is gas) and in the laundry. That uses two 110v out of phase lines for 220v.

For my metalworking machinery in the workshop I always use 220v if the machine has a wiring option for it. A 2HP motor is pulling almost 14A at 110v and only 7 at 220v and it runs much cooler and the circuit also has plenty of available power for anything else on the same 220v circuit.

IMHO, when possible always use 220v here in the US.

[Mike DeRegnaucourt]

Hi Dave,

I have the 60 watt EXT and run mine on 110 volt without any problems. As Peck has mentioned, the machine can run on either voltage. I had to run a dedicated 110v circuit to the room where I have the machine. I also ran two other dedicated circuits as well for each of the two blowers. I've had the machine nearly 2-yrs without a single problem so far.

If I recall, when I ordered my machine, I had to tell the salesman whether I was going to run the machine on 220 or 110. I believe that was so they installed the appropriate plug/cable.

I've been thinking about switching over to 220v since it is actually more efficient.

[Dave Russell Smith]

I hunted for an Epilog EXT manual and found this statement in the Legend EXT manual (I assume this is the one in question):

"Connecting Electrical Power


Don't forget about adding power surge suppression regardless of which path you take. For 240VAC you will need an industrial style suppressor.

Is this a special Item or can I get it from HD or Lowes and what sort of price are we looking at

[Dave Johnson29]

I've been thinking about switching over to 220v since it is actually more efficient.

Hi Mike,

For your application it would not make that much difference. Since you have a dedicated 110v line you skip the problems of peaking the line under heavy Vectoring load.

Big electric motors are an inductive load and can generate quite a lot of heat so they can benefit from 220v and Amperage reduction. Unless you really want to spend the bucks I can see no real advantage in it for the laser.

Without a dedicated line, then I would automatically opt for 220v.

BUT, I have been wrong before and will be again. ;)

[Richard Rumancik]

Dave, the industrial units are usually called TVSS's (transient voltage surge suppressors) and do something similar to what the surge suppressor connected to your computer will do. But the price of the industrial models varies all over the place, depending on features and performance - but entry level is probably well over $100. I don't know if the hardware stores would have them; I doubt it. I think you would have to go to an electrical supplier. But first you need some advice on what to get. Usually you can get some engineering advice from your utility company. I'd call and get someone in the engineering department to give you some help. If they are not busy they may even come out and check your power quality.

I have a TVSS product from Innovative Technology but their website is very complicated so can't point to a good page. But it would be best to get advice for your specific situation so you don't waste money. I bought mine on eBay for less than $100.

If you search on TVSS you will get some info. Also I noticed that B.C. Hydro (a Canadian power utility) has some good info on their site about TVSS's. Search on +"TVSS" +"bchydro" and you should get it.

I see a brand new Leviton 51240-WM on eBay (search: Leviton TVSS) for $30. But again, get an EE to help you select one.

Personally, I like the idea of a battery backup in front of a laser; not so you can laser in the dark, but because it acts as a great filter for transients and brownouts. It will buck and boost the voltage level to keep it in a narrow band, and won't hiccup if you get a one-second outage. It would hold the power long enough to at least hit the pause button and/or do an orderly shutdown. But getting one for a 60 watt laser would be expensive.

[Richard Rumancik]

Dave, if you just want to price out a UPS solution (uninterruptible power supply) go to eBay and see what is for sale. For example, search on
Tripp Lite SmartPro 3000

and you should find the kind I am thinking of. I can't say you should buy this one, it is just an example. A deal at less than $400. Likely the type you would need will be rack mounted as they are used for computer servers etc. The larger ones often run at 240VAC. The lower power versions are 120VAC. If you search eBay for: UPS rack then you should find some. For your application I would tend to look for a 3000VA minimum but get independent advice before you commit to something to make sure it will handle your load. Note that it will probably need new batteries every 4 or 5 years.

You can spend a little or a lot, but you should have something. A TVSS is the bare minimum solution.

[Dave Johnson29]

Personally, I like the idea of a battery backup in front of a laser; not so you can laser in the dark, but because it acts as a great filter for transients and brownouts.

...

But getting one for a 60 watt laser would be expensive.


Hi Richard,

What I do is get a basic 150W or 200W UPS and add a battery outside the box in parallel with the battery inside. That way I can have the equivalent of a 1000W UPS for the price of a 200W+30AH gel-cell. Not as pretty to look at as a fully contained unit, but works fine for me.

My laser draws about 4A under normal running and I have about 20 minutes of backup supply.

I check the charge on the 30AH battery every month or so and if it needs a boost then I disconnect it, charge and put it back in circuit.

Being out in the boonies, brownouts or total outages for 4 or 5 hours is not uncommon. In fact I have a stand-by gen set for those times so the meat in the freezer stays good. Ahhh, Country living. :)

[Michael Hunter]

A UPS is a good idea. After 3 power cuts last Sunday, I'm thinking of getting one myself!

It needs to be fairly big - the laser machine draws about 900W when vectoring at full power/frequency and ideally the UPS should last long enough to finish a fair sized job, so around 20 to 30 minutes. (The computer can die, so long as the job isn't spoilt).

In my previous incarnation as an electronics engineer, we used to buy cheapo Chinese UPSs to go with the systems that we sold. After a few big fires (one in a petrol [gas] station!!!!), we binned the cheapo ones and bought top-name American UPSs.
Be aware that there is a LOT of stored energy in a UPS battery, and if it all comes out at once .........

[John Noell]

Hi Richard,

What I do is get a basic 150W or 200W UPS and add a battery outside the box in parallel with the battery inside. That way I can have the equivalent of a 1000W UPS for the price of a 200W+30AH gel-cell.:)
Dave that is not quite correct for most of the UPSs I have dealt with. Your battery run time will be a lot longer with the extra battery but the load that will cause the UPS to trip is not dependent on the battery, but the circuitry. The APC line of UPSs definitely will trip close to their rated maximum regardless of extra batteries. (I know because I've seen it happen personally.) And be aware that many UPSs are rated in volt-amps, not watts. They can be close - or not. The APS650 is rated for 400 watts and 650 volt-amps.

[AL Ursich]

I have a bunch of experience with Power Supplies and while at Sony in San Diego did a power supply study in the calibration lab that resulted in Sorensen coming in and doing a power supply component change on 350 power supplies used to bake the gun on a picture tube.

We were operating them on 208 Volts and they were similar to the Epilog Power Supply operating on 115 VAC, or 208, 220, and 250.

What we were having was power supply failures and I found that with us running them on 208 volts that when the power supply was used in it's higher Current Ranges as you would do with a Laser at higher power the small fuses in the power supply on the control boards would blow.

The system must have been engineered at 220 Volts as when I ran it at 220 Volts the current in the fuses that were blowing was 1 amp on a 1.5 amp fuse. Ran the same load tests to the power supply with a 208 Volt input and the current was 1.4 amps. Any power surge and the 1.5 amp fuse blew and Sorensen charged us an arm and a leg to fix it. The engineers at Sorensen Blessed the changing of the fuse.

With my study and laying out all the numbers Sorensen came in and replaced all the fuses with 2 amp board mounted fuses. That ended the cash cow for them, and gave us better reliability.

I ended up getting Engineering Employee of the Quarter for my effort.

So to sum up all that STUFF.... If you operated your Laser on 115 VAC rather than 220 Volts then when the power supply must make up the higher current Output if you operate it on 115 VAC, the power supply must WORK HARDER to generate the required current and this will stress the components leading to earlier failure.

Plus you will be drawing higher amperage with 115 Volts then with 220. If you placed a amp meter on the wall outlet and ran your laser at full power and for example the current was 14 amps. Running the Laser on 220 Volts and the current will be split between the 2 hot leads and you will measure about 7 amps on each leg.

Just my opinion.... and everyone has one. I would operate it on 220. While you are lasering and someone plugs a 115 volt Air compressor, Power Tool, Microwave, Coffee Pot or any high current draw it could DIP your power to your laser. Depends on how stable your power is entering your shop. Do the lights dim or flickler when something like that starts up?

Good Luck with your laser,

AL

[Dave Johnson29]

Dave that is not quite correct for most of the UPSs I have dealt with.


Hi John, Oops, my mistake for making a blanket statement. :)

I have several older Belkin UPS here that do not seem to care what Watts. I assume it is monitoring the 110v mains and when that dips, it kicks in.