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Mark Norman
03-07-2009, 6:43 PM
My original intention was to have a friend help me fabricate a bowl lathe using some scrap steel he/we have laying around. I posted here a request for a spindle to use for the project. I got a lot of helpful responses and one of them mentioned using concrete as a base material...As it turns out I have extensive experience with precast concrete. It is an awesome building material.

That got me thinking and I sketched up my thoughts on paper.. I calculated the weight at almost 1000# with the motor and steel bed.

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/wood/Top-44_edited-1.jpg

I plan on using a three horse three phase motor with variable speed control.

I still have not finalised the design of the headstock configuration, I wont until I have the spindle, pulley and motor in hand.

I planed on fabricating steel ways out of 3" or 4" square steel stock that will adjust vertically by bolting to some uni-strut embedded vertically into the concrete. The motor will also hang from embedded uni-strut.

I think if it is planned well with the uni-strut strategically located I would have a multitude of options for mounting up various fabricated tool rests.

What to consider??? I think the building of the concrete formwork will be a fun project in itself.

Any input is welcome.

I'm glad I found this site, there seems to be some real helpful, friendly and talented people her.. I think I'll hang around for a while.

Thanks in advance,
Mark

David Christopher
03-07-2009, 7:14 PM
Mark, dont see why it wouldnt work..I would make the body out of concrete but I would make the headstock out of 8X8 steel so would have a place to mount and/or replace the spindle bearings..but you could fill the steel tubing also.....this should be interesting

Richard Madison
03-07-2009, 7:32 PM
Should be technically feasible. Many things to consider as you get further into the project. One might be location.

Mark Norman
03-07-2009, 7:49 PM
The spindle bearings are whats giving me a hard time conceptualising. Until I have a spindle in hand I'm not sure what the outcome will ultimatly be. The structural steel box tubing is an option depending what I can find. Two pieces of heavy channel or the like may fit the bill as well.

Richard, I have a location in my shop for it and an overhead trolly crane too so casing it upside down or laying on its face is the method of choice here. I plan on using a melamine veneer for the formwork so I will end up with a very smooth surface finish...

I am determined to make it happen. I'll get pics along the way too;)

Here is a concrete shower I made for the hot tub patio a few yars back. Turned out real nice...Dont ask about "the rest of the story" I forgot to drain it one winter and the pipes inside froze and now it leaks all over..

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/101_0968.jpg

alex carey
03-07-2009, 8:25 PM
This will be a very interesting topic, we all would love to see the process and with it pictures. GL

Dick Sowa
03-07-2009, 8:34 PM
You might consider buying a stock spindle assembly from Powermatic...the ones they use for 3520b. They come with indexing holes, bearings and threaded end with #2MT. Once you had it in hand, you could design your support frame for it.

Mark Norman
03-07-2009, 8:55 PM
From a member here.
Like this:

http://www.vicmarc.com/img/lathes/016-vl100-spindle.jpg

How to embed bearing race holders into the head will be a challenge. As will the pulley and drive belt. If the belt is to be between the bearings it will make it more practical to use steel for the headstock. We will see...and I love pics;)

David Christopher
03-07-2009, 10:21 PM
From a member here.
Like this:

http://www.vicmarc.com/img/lathes/016-vl100-spindle.jpg

How to embed bearing race holders into the head will be a challenge. As will the pulley and drive belt. If the belt is to be between the bearings it will make it more practical to use steel for the headstock. We will see...and I love pics;)

Mark, I made a spindle holder (for a different project ) and to hold the bearings I got a piece of pipe, made it fit the outside of the bearing race, cut it off about 3/4" and tack welded to the frame them slid bearings in and then slid spindle through..( easier said than typed )

Nathan Hawkes
03-07-2009, 11:05 PM
My original intention was to have a friend help me fabricate a bowl lathe using some scrap steel he/we have laying around. I posted here a request for a spindle to use for the project. I got a lot of helpful responses and one of them mentioned using concrete as a base material...As it turns out I have extensive experience with precast concrete. It is an awesome building material.

That got me thinking and I sketched up my thoughts on paper.. I calculated the weight at almost 1000# with the motor and steel bed.

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/wood/Top-44_edited-1.jpg

I plan on using a three horse three phase motor with variable speed control.

I still have not finalised the design of the headstock configuration, I wont until I have the spindle, pulley and motor in hand.

I planed on fabricating steel ways out of 3" or 4" square steel stock that will adjust vertically by bolting to some uni-strut embedded vertically into the concrete. The motor will also hang from embedded uni-strut.

I think if it is planned well with the uni-strut strategically located I would have a multitude of options for mounting up various fabricated tool rests.

What to consider??? I think the building of the concrete formwork will be a fun project in itself.

Any input is welcome.

I'm glad I found this site, there seems to be some real helpful, friendly and talented people her.. I think I'll hang around for a while.

Thanks in advance,
Mark


Since its purely concept at this stage, I'd seriously consider increasing the footprint width to 30" or even more. I've heard Fred say over and over that the triangulation of the weight is the most important thing in making it rocksolid steady. That way an out of balance blank has to lift much more weight to rock the lathe---a 30" lever vs. 20". I wouldn't have thought it much difference, but he said it would move all over with narrower legs on it. Just a suggestion. I figure every detail matters at this point. I'm eager to see how it goes!! If I had the time to devote to it (I work 30+ hrs at night, and am turning almost full time as well) I would've done the same thing for a mega-bowl lathe. I'd even thought about using pieces of inverted railroad rail as the ways, and have them machined dead flat. My family has a farm that the railroad bisects--there are short pieces of rail that end up in the river all the time.

Dave Schell
03-08-2009, 8:28 AM
If you incorporated the idea of a shower into the lathe, maybe on the outboard side of the headstock, well then, you would have something truly unique! :D:D

Seriously, though - after having just finished my build, I'm really looking forward to watching your journey. The idea of a concrete is just fascinating to me. Best of luck.

Ron Lynch
03-08-2009, 11:00 AM
As David says, a tubular spindle carrier would be relatively easy to fabricate. I would suggest using "Round Mechanical Tubing" rather than pipe. RMT can be purchased in a variety of ODxID combinations that will reduce the amount of machining necessary to mount the bearings and it's much closer to round than pipe. Carry on.

Reed Gray
03-08-2009, 2:29 PM
Dang, this almost makes me want to take up concrete work again. I did high end residential work for too many years, and got to form up a lot of interesting stuff. I don't know that I would want the headstock part made out of concrete, but could easily see making a bed/frame for the metal out of concrete. Excellent at shock absorption. I would make the bed more like a standard lathe (big I beam with arched feet on either end), rather than a box because you will want to stand close to the lathe, and be able to get your feet in close to the work so you never have to bend over. Will you ever need to move the lathe, or are you going to put it in one place for ever? Pouring level on site is easy, otherwise, you will need levelers. Metal inbeds with drilled and plug welded anchors on them for holding the bed and headstock in place. You can also bend plywood for the curves, and wrap the pieces in the thin painters plastic or 2 mil plastic (staple or tape into place), and get the same smooth finish, and do use a vibrator. Probably some 3/8 rebar bent to shape. Sounds fun.
robo hippy

Mark Norman
03-08-2009, 2:56 PM
Some good thing to consider posted here... and I will.:)

The drawing is rough but I did consider being able to stand close to the work. I actually have reliefs in the base as a sort of toe space so I could get right up to it with my knees touching the body of the lathe. I will likely make it wider than the 20" shown also.

As for leveling it, I will just use grout under the 'feet'. It wont ever move once I get it in place.

As for the bearing holders in the headstock, I will look into using the round tubing. I'm sketching up some details of the headstock that will accommodate the pulleys between the bearings. Two pieces of 1' x 4" steel box tubing with holes drilled in and round stock welded in place to receive the bearing races. The critical part will be making sure they are absolutely parallel.

Thanks again, i will keep you all posted.

Ron Lynch
03-08-2009, 6:30 PM
Mark,
You should be able to align your bearing housings by assembling the set-up with a dummy shaft and bearings. That way you are assured of alignment, provided you do the welding properly.

Mark Norman
03-08-2009, 7:09 PM
Thanks for the input!
I'm still thinking of using pillow block bearings for the spindle. I'm not sure I like the idea of having the pulleys between the bearings. Having the pulleys outboard will make not only the fabrication much easier but changing the belt on the pulleys would be simple. I could also put a much bigger pulley on for real slow turning of big out of balance pieces.

I was looking around the net and found a BIG home made bowl lathe. :eek::
http://www.proserpinewoodturners.com/The_Big_Bowl.html

Now thats impressive!!!

phil harold
03-09-2009, 5:04 AM
Thanks for the input!
I'm still thinking of using pillow block bearings for the spindle. I'm not sure I like the idea of having the pulleys between the bearings. Having the pulleys outboard will make not only the fabrication much easier but changing the belt on the pulleys would be simple. I could also put a much bigger pulley on for real slow turning of big out of balance pieces.

I was looking around the net and found a BIG home made bowl lathe. :eek::
http://www.proserpinewoodturners.com/The_Big_Bowl.html

Now thats impressive!!!

Wow thats big!

I remember reading an article years ago about making a lathe from a front wheel drive axel for turning bowls
(I wish I could find that article)

Paul Atkins
03-09-2009, 11:54 AM
Using the segmented belts would solve the belt problem. I have a '62 Volvo 4 speed tranny I'm thinking of putting on my faceplate lathe which includes a reverse too.

john taliaferro
03-09-2009, 12:39 PM
cast in some big steel protruding then grind to fit the headstock and ways and weld them on. i would use ss . i would make it bigger. i i i it relly sounds like fun. john t:rolleyes::rolleyes:

Kim Ford
03-09-2009, 12:46 PM
Mark, I had plans to build a concrete lathe as well until I found my old Oliver. A few of the things I learned in researching the project were interesting.

Concrete is an excellent material in that it asborbs vibration very well, however, the mass needs to be directly connected to the spindle and the more mass you put around the spindle the better. My concept was to do have a sleeve made that was about 14" long machined to accept bearings on both ends with flat tabs on each end to bolt the bearing keepers on. The spindle goes through the sleeve with bearings on each end. Then simply pour the sleeve in your concrete headstock, such that each end was exposed. In this way any vibration goes from the spindle to the bearings to the sleeve to the concrete.

Good luck and let us know how it goes.

Mark Norman
03-09-2009, 2:15 PM
I just talked to a local machine shop.

He can fabricate the spindle to my specs. 1-1/2 or 1-3/4" shaft with 1-1/4" x 8 threads on one end and a keyway for the bushed sheave on the other and 15" long.

The steel bar stock will be $21 and an hour shop labor is $95.

I just have to decide on wether to go with 1-1/2" or 1-3/4" stock.

alex carey
03-09-2009, 2:31 PM
bigger the better I assume.

Rich Souchek
03-09-2009, 9:01 PM
Mark,
I kind of kicked this around also a couple of years ago, and have seen pictures of a few home built lathes using concrete. My then fiancee asked what was I doing, already having gone through 2 lathes within a year. Told her, and she replied for me to go find the one lathe I really wanted, then go buy it, and don't replace it for 10 years or so.
A 3520B came home really soon and I love it. I want to turn, not make another compromising killer lathe. I would have done the headstock in steel, bolted to embedded steel reinforcement. Steel ways also seem the way to go.
With that said, it is the little things that the Powermatic and Oneway lathes have that make using them a joy and seem effertless. Have not used other fine lathes so don't mean to criticize them. I design steel oilfield equipment for a living, and yes, a lathe is not that hard to build. But it IS hard to get all the nice little improvements and things that just feel and work right incorporated into that design. The Oneway and Powermatic lathes have been developed over decades of designs, development, and little improvements. Nobody's first, second, or third lathe will ever get the little good stuff. And that is what still thrills me about my Powermatic 3520B lathe.:)
However, I do have an old long bed 12" Rockwell that is going to become a 1.5 hp variable speed pen lathe with a 16" long wood bed............ :D
Rich S.

Mark Norman
03-09-2009, 9:28 PM
But what did the PM 3520 cost ya? over three grand I bet. and you are limmited to turning a 20 blank. Up the machine to a PM4224 and yer looking at 5 grand for a 24" blank.

I want to turn big bowls from the trees here in the sierras. The trees get real big in these parts:)

I figgure I can build this machine for about a grand if I shop wisely. I also greatly enjoy the designing and building of the machine. A big plus!!

I've been doing some more research on building my bowl lathe. I found a guy on the net that built one for his dad and he took a hundred an forty pics to document his build.(sans the concrete) :cool:

The critical part is the headstock that supports the spindle. His is overkill and I like it a lot! 2" dia shaft 18" long. The bearings are almost 3 hunnerd each :eek:

The 1-3/4" bearings I plan on using will be a few $ less than the 2" ones he used.

His album:
http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showgallery.php?cat=1058&ppuser=639

Here is the components of his headstock assembly I plan to mimick just a hair smaller and cast in concrete.. He sandwiched a bunch of layers of plywood between the bearings.
http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/headstock.jpg

Looks like a fun project..If it works out as well as planned I could see myself producing em for commercial sale.

Look forward to pics of the progress....as it progresses:p

Jim Kountz
03-09-2009, 10:31 PM
Have you thought about factoring in some way to make use of a coring attachment? It would seem like a shame to be able to turn such large bowls and have the bulk of them lying in piles on the floor. Since I got into coring I have MANY more roughed out bowls!!

Scott Conners
03-10-2009, 1:00 AM
That lathe with the plywood headstock is interesting...I'd think a nice big Parallam beam would do even better...too bad I just cut up the one I had into bowl blanks!

Dave Schell
03-10-2009, 7:52 AM
Mark, it's just pure coincidence that in the picture, your headstock is resting on an advertisement for injury law, right? :D

Travis R. Nelson
03-10-2009, 6:03 PM
Mark
I have been watching this thread develop and have posted earlier regarding the use of concrete. You are headed in the right direction, just allow me to steer you a little bit... I have a plan for a machine capable of 48" diameter that has most of the kinks worked out. My buddy is an engineer and he helped me with making sure the design would safely absorb the radial forces at play at this scale. We are still working on the tailstock, as it is currently the weak link. PM me and I will send you a scan of the working drawing. I hope this gets you a little further down the road with this build.

Regards,
Travis R. Nelson
nelsonandsons@windstream.net

Mark Norman
03-10-2009, 10:13 PM
Dave,
Do you read or just look at the pics? ;) :eek: j/k Its not my pic sittin on the phone book. But I do get the irony lol lol..

Jim,
I have seen the coring attachments and they do look interesting but I'm still working on wood bowl 101.

I'm not real interested in a tailstock at this point but I will make provisions for adding one to the ways later. For now, a faceplate and a good chuck will fit the bill.

I look forward to your input Travis. I have faith my design will develop and become a reality and any help is appreciated. The components are not cheap though so it may take a while and there is quite a bit of engineering envolved but that is my strong point.

As promised, I will keep you all posted.:) I kinda like it here in the midst of the creek:D

Travis R. Nelson
03-11-2009, 12:27 PM
You've got mail...

Kim Ford
03-11-2009, 12:39 PM
Here is the components of his headstock assembly I plan to mimick just a hair smaller and cast in concrete.. He sandwiched a bunch of layers of plywood between the bearings.
http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/headstock.jpg

:p[/quote]

Mark; look at the picture above. One of the big mistakes that is made: The spindle does not protrude out past the bearing enough to get your tool rest, chisels and sanders in to work properly if the headstock is to large. Don't under estimate this.

Travis R. Nelson
03-11-2009, 1:55 PM
you've got mail Dan as well...

Mark Norman
03-12-2009, 10:31 AM
The more research I do and the more input I get the better off the final product will be:)

Kim,
Thats a real good point about having the end of the spindle come out far enough to work the back side of the piece. Makes me reconsider using the pillow block bearings instead of the flange bearings. I would have a lot more clearance in doing so. I'm glad I haven't bought the bearings yet. Its a good reason to go with the larger dia spindle as well.

Thanks for all the input. I'm in the final design stages now and soon to buy some parts.

Travis R. Nelson
03-12-2009, 1:44 PM
I can't wait to see what you come up with!

Thomas Bennett
03-12-2009, 9:29 PM
I lifted this photo of a concrete lathe from somewhere on the net. I'm ashamed to say I don't remember where. It looks like he uses a jack shaft mounted on a frame or some bolts cast in the base. I thought it would be cool to make an outdoor version for really big blanks. Cast it right down below the frost line. God luck with yours!

Jim Becker
03-12-2009, 9:37 PM
David Ellsworth has a Jim Thompson lathe in his studio that, if I am recalling correctly, has a lot of concrete in it. But it's been many years since I visited...

Dave Schell
03-13-2009, 8:26 AM
That hurts my back to look at that picture. Whatever the final design, make sure your spindle height is at least to your elbows.

Reed Gray
03-13-2009, 12:13 PM
I never considered access to the bottom of a bowl, after it has been reversed to be any kind of an issue. Mine is finished when I reverse it. If you are trying to turn bowls down to less than 1/8 inch thick, then what little run out you get isn't enough to matter, and you can reduce that run out to almost nothing with good tool tecnique. More mass in the head stock means less vibration. The less the headstock spindle sticks out from the headstock, the less vibration there is. When your spindle is out 6 inches, you will get some induced vibration when you apply any tool, or even without tool contact, because the wood is on a longer lever arm.
robo hippy

phil harold
03-13-2009, 1:29 PM
if you want to considered access to the bottom of a bowl you could incorporate a tool rest into the head stock

just an idea...

Mark Norman
03-14-2009, 1:05 AM
Where my design is going is unheard of.

I feel as if I'm charting undiscovered territory here.

Ive been workin on the design tonight. The mechanics are pretty well determined at this point. Developing the mold fabrication design now...I'll be posting on the progress for sure.

Lot of help here...you all are makin me think..Thats a good thing:)

I'm not sure how much I want to share on a public forum.. but I'll keep ya all posted..

Thomas Bennett
03-14-2009, 4:30 PM
Comon'! Don't leave us hangin' too long.

John Fricke
03-14-2009, 4:44 PM
Seems to me if you could find a deal like this http://detroit.craigslist.org/tls/1074772551.html nearby you could scavenge many of the parts you needed for extremely cheap.


http://images.craigslist.org/3nd3ka3l9ZZZZZZZZZ93e95660446974c124f.jpg

Jeff Nicol
03-14-2009, 6:57 PM
Mark, You have to make it sleek and purty! The latest and greatest design with all the curves and stuff........OOP's my mind is wandering!!!! Just purty is good!!

Hurry we can't wait!!

Jeff

Mark Norman
03-15-2009, 7:13 PM
Mark, You have to make it sleek and purty! The latest and greatest design with all the curves and stuff........OOP's my mind is wandering!!!! Just purty is good!!

Hurry we can't wait!!

Jeff
Funny you should say that Jeff. I'm thinking the same thing. Curves are much more appealing:D
Here is an end view I sketched up yesterday...

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/Top-45_edited-1.jpg

I can't hurry this, I need to scrounge up a few bucks for the parts I need. Gonna be close to a grand when all is said and done.

Mark Norman
03-24-2009, 1:35 AM
Commited myself to a 1-3/4 spindle with 1-1/4 x 8 tpi. The bearings ran me $130.00 and a faceplate I just ordered ran me $25. (I had to order a 1/2" bowl gouge and scraper while I was at it for another $80.00.)

I plan on going with a 2 hp Baldor 3 phase TEFC motor and a VFD to match, both for about $500...

Lets talk budget...

ok so I have $500 for the motor and vfd, $130 in bearings, $200 for the spindle $25 for the faceplate, and $150 for pulley and sheath. $100 in formwork, $100 in hardware..I have re-bar...$100 in concrete..

If I can pull it off with some style, I'll have me one decent machine for under $1400.00...

Whadda ya think?

Ron Crosby
03-24-2009, 1:58 AM
Wow!! :eek:

Mark Norman
03-24-2009, 2:34 AM
I think...:p LOL:p

Jeff Nicol
03-24-2009, 8:05 AM
Mark, You are committed now and it should be a great feeling when it is all completed. I just ordered parts for my CNC router table so I know how you are feeling!! I can't wait to get it up and running just like you! Good luck and we are all waiting for the grand unveiling!

Have a great day!!

Jeff

Steve Frederick
03-24-2009, 8:46 AM
I just read through this thread..What a cool project!
I think that you have a good plan here.
Don't rush the job. Working out the bugs can be the most exciting aspect of a project. I think that the devil's in the details.
I'm looking forward to the results.

Mark Norman
03-24-2009, 9:54 PM
Mark, You are committed now....

Jeff

Boy am I ever Jeff LOL,
Just today I bought a new 2 HP 3 phase motor ($250.00) and the VFD (another $250.00) and the spindle pulley (at cost for $83.50).

As soon as I get the face plate in hand I'll visit the machine shop again and get the spindle made up.

I stopped by the home improvement center today to determine the best material to use for the form work and concrete embed anchors. I'm putting the form work together in my head and I have some ideas I really like that I'll save for later;)



I just read through this thread..What a cool project!
I think that you have a good plan here.
Don't rush the job. Working out the bugs can be the most exciting aspect of a project. I think that the devil's in the details.
I'm looking forward to the results.


Thanks Steve,
I appreciate the encouragement.
It is turning out to be a real fun project. The research here is paying off, it helps to have input from others that are familiar with what I am working on.
The devil don't hold a candle to me;):p and I will be posting more as I progress...The trials and the tribulations.....

Mark

Dave Schell
03-24-2009, 10:01 PM
Mark, what kind of VFD did you buy? If it is a Hitachi, I like to share some programming war stories with on the Vicmarc build I just completed.

Mark Norman
03-24-2009, 10:23 PM
Mark, what kind of VFD did you buy? If it is a Hitachi, I like to share some programming war stories with on the Vicmarc build I just completed.


This one Dave:
http://dealerselectric.com/item.asp?cID=&PID=400


http://dealerselectric.com/images/products/teco/n3ip20.jpg
I have a friend that programs these things all day long to help me out with any issues I might come across.
I plan on casting in a recess on the lathe just below the headstock to fit the remote control panel and I haven't decided if I will mount the VFD on the back by the motor or on a wall near-by.

Here is the headstock pulley I picked up today for about half of what a sheave and bushing would cost me. It only has a 1" center so I will have the machinist cut the spindle down to accept it and have 1"x8tpi cut on the outboard side and use a thread adapter for the faceplate.
http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/wood/18inchpulleyandpillowblock.jpg

The new Baldor motor is in the box behind it and I have a four step pulley to fit it on order and should be here in just a couple days.

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/wood/pulleyandbearing.jpg

I'll be able to turn at 50 to 500 rpm all day long. And I will have provisions to add a jack-shaft set up so I could spin at 3000 rpm:D

Dick Strauss
03-25-2009, 1:47 AM
Mark,
It is sounding good so far.

If it were my project, I would have my machinist enlarge the hole in the pulley/sheave to 1 1/4" instead of cutting down the headstock shaft to 1". It looks like there is plenty of metal to enlarge the hole and have it still be plenty strong.

With the VFD, I'd mount it separate from the lathe. Electronics can be very sensitive to vibration. It also keeps the VFD away from most of the dust/shavings. I know that many manufacturers mount them on the lathe but I think separate is the best practice.

Good luck,
Dick

Mark Norman
03-25-2009, 2:10 AM
I agree the VF drive should be mounted seperate from the machine.

I'll talk to the machinist about the best way to join the spindle to the pulley.

Norm Zax
03-25-2009, 8:51 AM
Mark - any chance for pics of the purchased parts?
We're all behind you on the project!

Mark Norman
03-25-2009, 11:50 PM
Mark - any chance for pics of the purchased parts?
We're all behind you on the project!
Just the big head stock pulley and bearing so far. I'll open up the box with the motor in it as soon as I get the vfd and step pulley for it.
And you can bet I will post pics of the spindle when I get it done. give me a week or two for that.
I went shopping for materials today for the formwork and talked with a metal fabricator extraordinaire about building a steel form so I can reproduce the machine...

More to come.....got me some engineering to do....

Mark Norman
03-26-2009, 11:14 PM
http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/wood/101_1118.jpg

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/wood/101_1119.jpg

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/wood/101_1120.jpg

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/wood/101_1121.jpg

alex carey
03-27-2009, 2:15 AM
I have that same henry taylor gouge and it's great. Looks like everything is coming along quite well. Are you getting enough sleep or is this keeping you up at night like buying a new lathe kept me up?

Mark Norman
03-27-2009, 8:13 AM
I sleep well Alex, Thanks for the concern;) I am getting anxious though. I am suitably impressed with the gouge and scraper I got yesterday. Quality stuff for sure.
I'm just waiting for a couple more parts to really get moving with the build.

Yeah I am a lil excited about it. :D

Mark Norman
03-27-2009, 9:43 PM
and made sure it fit on the motor today...
Got a cell phone pic of the pieces just for fun:

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/motor.jpg

Doing some engineering on the motor vs headstock speeds using a jackshaft and I think I have it all worked out. I decided I didnt like the big pulley being on the headstock spinning way up high like that so I decided to add a jackshaft down lower on the machine and in doing so I have come up with twelve speed ratios possible. Likely I will only use a half a dozen at the most but it gives me plenty of options. I'll scan my sketch if anyone is interested..

Mark Norman
03-27-2009, 10:10 PM
I'm thinking I could add a 1" jackshaft in the outboard upright end of the machine with a 6 and 18" pulley, I could mount the motor up high so I could run it without the jackshaft most of the time. And for the occasion I want to turn a real large piece I could add the extra pulleys for real slow speed turning.

Dont laugh but feel free to comment

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/wood/Top-45.jpg

Someone please check my math.. I was soo confused after staring at it for a couple hours last night..:crazy:

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/wood/pulleychart.jpg

Mark Norman
04-02-2009, 1:56 AM
In the way of a full scale mock up on the particle board I will be using as one of the outside forms..

It looks like the pulley set up will work just fine and I will have a dual spindle machine. The lower spindle will yield a 13" swing over the ways and use a tail stock where the upper will have a 48" swing over the ways.

I have a slick set up figgured out for the motor mounting and belt tensioning. I just hope it works like I plan.

Today I brought home a dozen 80# bags of high strength concrete and the heavy wall square pipe I will be using for the ways. I have some welding to do on em.

I havent decided if the ways will bolt to the headstock colum or be cast into the concrete but I wont be mixing the concrete for about two weeks till I have the rest of the bits in hand so no hurry on that decision..

I'll let the pictures tell the rest of todays story.

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/101_1208.jpg

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/101_1210.jpg

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/101_1211.jpg

Almost 1000# of concrete :eek:

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/101_1212.jpg

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/101_1213.jpg

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/101_1219.jpg

I have two options for the horizontal body of the machine under the ways and havent decided. Both are 8" pieces of water main pipe, one is ductile iron and the other is c-900 pvc... The iron would hold paint real well but the pvc could remain un-painted and is nice and smooth.

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/101_1214.jpg

More to come;)

alex carey
04-02-2009, 3:21 AM
this project is really starting to materialize. It's nice to see all the pictures, keep them coming. Love to see it all.

Jeff Nicol
04-02-2009, 5:20 AM
Mark, Do you feel sort of like Dr. Frankenstien building the monster from pieces and parts gathered here and there? Soon the monster will live!!!! Great work so far and you have put lots of thought and effort into making a quality turning machine. We all can't wait to see the beast spinning and curls flying through the air!

Have a great day!

Jeff

Don Eddard
04-02-2009, 5:59 AM
Looks like a fun project. I'm wondering about the logic behind using a movable bed. As much effort as you're going through to keep the spindle from vibrating, it seems you'd want the bed and tool rest to be on something more substantial than some steel hanging on Unistrut. In addition to vibration problems, I'd think there would be other issue with leveling and having the two rails coplanar. I think I'd imbed the rails in as much concrete as possible, and make or purchase as stout of banjo as possible.

Looking forward to seeing it all come together, however you end up doing it.

Ben West
04-02-2009, 10:10 AM
I'm not much of a turner (may become one someday), but I've enjoyed this thread. My dad made his lathe out of plans in a woodworking mag some 20 or 25 years ago, and he still turns on it weekly. So, I have an affection for homemade lathes.

Some of you may have seen this in another post, but I stumbled across another interesting homemade bowl lathe on Craigslist. Check out the spindle size on this sucker...wow!

http://atlanta.craigslist.org/tls/1095799846.html

Dave Ogren
04-02-2009, 11:28 AM
Mark,

Looking at your large dia. pulley got me to thinking. On a larger machine to transfer the torque from a 2 H.P. motor to the spindle shaft in the 50 to 500 R.P.M. range they use two (2) belts totaling 1 1/2" in width and it takes all of that to not have belt slip.
I just wanted you to know that so you don't build undersize.
Happy thinking.

Dave

Mark Norman
04-03-2009, 12:40 AM
Mark, Do you feel sort of like Dr. Frankenstien ...


Jeff


Yeah, kinda jeff. I have been confused with a mad scientist,,,

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/250px-Mad_scientist_caricature.png

I made some progress on the critical end form and got some pics of the progress cuz I know I like pics as much as you all do:)

All yer comments are welcome and duly noted ...

After I cut out the shape in the partical board I laminated it with 1/4 luan veneer for a smooth finish...

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/laminate.jpg

My daughter decided more ballast was in order..

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/randirelaxin.jpg


http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/101_1220.jpg


http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/101_1221.jpg

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/101_1222.jpg

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/101_1223.jpg

Glue and screws!!

Dick Strauss
04-03-2009, 1:47 AM
Dave O,
I've kind of read the same thing about belts. Then I remembered that cars used to use std V-belts for years to power things like AC compressors (that can present a 10hp+ load). These systems worked fine for many years without slippage unless the belt was worn. I suspect that the the ribbed flat belts run smoother and are more efficient but are not necessary for a build like this. Two belts would be total overkill IMHO.

phil harold
04-03-2009, 8:38 AM
Just some observations

I thought you wanted mass, now it seems like it is very narrow
and the pulley is wider than the base so you will have to incorparate some type of guard, why not make the width taper from the top to the bottom. This would provide more strength and mass and make the bottom pulley look more like a part of the design instead of an after thought

just my 2 cents

Mark Norman
04-03-2009, 10:14 AM
Yeah Phil, The big pulley was an after thought... It will be easily removable and I'm thinking I would likely do without it 95% of the time.

I am going for mass way down low to keep the center of gravity as low as possible. Looking at it from an end view it does look rather narrow now that its cut out to scale. Lets see what it looks like when its all said and done. I think it's gonna look sexy;)

I agree with you on the belts Dick, one is sufficient. At work I have a lot of belt driven machines (hvac) some have multiple belts on them but only on the 10hp and up motors.

Mark Norman
04-03-2009, 10:55 AM
Looks like a fun project. I'm wondering about the logic behind using a movable bed. As much effort as you're going through to keep the spindle from vibrating, it seems you'd want the bed and tool rest to be on something more substantial than some steel hanging on Unistrut. In addition to vibration problems, I'd think there would be other issue with leveling and having the two rails coplanar. I think I'd imbed the rails in as much concrete as possible, and make or purchase as stout of banjo as possible.

Looking forward to seeing it all come together, however you end up doing it.

The design no longer includes uni-strut Don, the first sketch was purely conceptual. I don't want to cast them into the concrete, so the two steel ways will be welded to end plates that will be held in place with some BIG bolts. That will give me the flexibilty for fine tuning them to attain level.

Dave Mueller
04-03-2009, 2:38 PM
Mark,
I really like your idea about a concrete lathe base. I built a wood lathe base and am pretty pleased with it. I wanted to build the most out of wood instead of metal, since I'm a woodworker. The three main metal parts are the headstock spindle, tailstock spindle and bed. See the attached picture.

I did learn several things the hard way. First, the alignment of the headstock parallel to the bed both vertically and horizontally is critical. Second, alignment of the tailstock to the headstock is just as critical. Without these, spindle turning or even using the tailstock to support a bown in the initial stages of turning will be a problem, and drilling using the tailstock almost impossible. I used a 16" long 2" dia round bar turned down to a 1 1/2" dia headstock spindle with 1 1/4X8 threads. It is supported by two deep groove bal bearings in spherical mounts, which I think is the critical part. This allows you to align the spindle regardless of how mis-aligned the vertical bearing supports are (within reason). Do you plan to have a hole down the center of the headstock spindle for a knockout bar or vacuum chucking? I found machinists not very interested in drilling this long of a hole.

There are a lot of other lessons learned that would be too long for this thread. If you are interested, please send me an e-mail through the forum and I'll be glad to share.

Good luck. It's not just the destination, but also the journey...

Mark Norman
04-04-2009, 10:54 AM
I'm suitably impressed. The alignment of the headstock spindle is not as critical for turning bowls. I figgure I can adjust mine by adding shims under the pillow block bearings if need be. Also the ways will have some adjustment to em.

Made a lil progress with the forms yesterday but I need a few more parts to proceed further.

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/101_1224.jpg

Both end forms screwed together book matched so they will be identical.

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/101_1229.jpg

Spent some quality time with the belt sander,,lol lol

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/101_1242.jpg

More to come...

Mike Zipparo
04-06-2009, 7:32 PM
Awsome thread. Great to see this thing evolving. I'm thinking of casting a riser block for a Powermatic Model 90.

I see you chose a TECO N3 for the VFD. Why this one over the Teco JNEV-203, which is also sensorless vector constant torque in a protected chasis? I assume that $100 is worth something but what?

Thanks,
Mike

Mark Norman
04-06-2009, 8:40 PM
Awsome thread. Great to see this thing evolving. I'm thinking of casting a riser block for a Powermatic Model 90.

I see you chose a TECO N3 for the VFD. Why this one over the Teco JNEV-203, which is also sensorless vector constant torque in a protected chasis? I assume that $100 is worth something but what?

Thanks,
Mike

Thanks Mike,
I'd like to see the riser block when you get it done. Concrete is a great building material.
I wanted the remote mount control panel the N-3 offers. That way I can mount the VFD on the wall of the shop out of harms way and still have the controls at the ready.

I would have made more progress this weekend but I'm waiting for a few parts before I proceed.

Mark Norman
04-08-2009, 10:50 PM
I spent a hunnerd bucks on some parts today..Got the bearings and intermediate (jack-shaft)...

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/bigpulley.jpg

Close up pic with the cell phone:

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/intermediateshaft.jpg

The intermediate shaft is 1" and will carry the 18" pulley as well as a 6" pulley and I will need to have a key-way cut in it and then I'll cut the shaft to length when I determine the apropriate length.

The 7/16" all-thread will go all the way through the headstock and hold both flange bearings.

I also picked up the 3/4" all-thread that will hold the ways.

Still waiting on the sheave and bushing for the primary drive on the headstock so I can have the 1-3/4" shaft made.

More to come:D

Jeff Nicol
04-09-2009, 7:50 AM
Mark,
I really like your idea about a concrete lathe base. I built a wood lathe base and am pretty pleased with it. I wanted to build the most out of wood instead of metal, since I'm a woodworker. The three main metal parts are the headstock spindle, tailstock spindle and bed. See the attached picture.

I did learn several things the hard way. First, the alignment of the headstock parallel to the bed both vertically and horizontally is critical. Second, alignment of the tailstock to the headstock is just as critical. Without these, spindle turning or even using the tailstock to support a bown in the initial stages of turning will be a problem, and drilling using the tailstock almost impossible. I used a 16" long 2" dia round bar turned down to a 1 1/2" dia headstock spindle with 1 1/4X8 threads. It is supported by two deep groove bal bearings in spherical mounts, which I think is the critical part. This allows you to align the spindle regardless of how mis-aligned the vertical bearing supports are (within reason). Do you plan to have a hole down the center of the headstock spindle for a knockout bar or vacuum chucking? I found machinists not very interested in drilling this long of a hole.

There are a lot of other lessons learned that would be too long for this thread. If you are interested, please send me an e-mail through the forum and I'll be glad to share.

Good luck. It's not just the destination, but also the journey...
Dave, Very nice job on the wood lathe! It is very good looking and the construction looks perfect. Mak is having a blast building his monster and we all can't wait to see it completed!

Mark, Keep plugging along and you will win the battle soon!

Jeff

Mark Norman
04-09-2009, 2:16 PM
On both accounts. Dave did do an awesome job on his and I am greatly enjoying the design-build process.

I hate waiting for parts though:(

curtis rosche
04-09-2009, 3:42 PM
you need to paint it. im thinkin binford colors. :D:D

Mark Norman
04-09-2009, 10:01 PM
you need to paint it. im thinkin binford colors. :D:D

Would that be like Chevy orange? I'm thinking Big Block :D LOL LOL LOL

Mark Norman
04-09-2009, 11:53 PM
Made a little progress...I am going slow because it is uncharted teritory for me. .... Measure twice...and then do it again...

I'll let the pics tell the story of todays progress...


http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/101_1248.jpg

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/101_1249.jpg

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/101_1250.jpg

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/101_1252.jpg

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/101_1254.jpg

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/101_1256.jpg

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/101_1257.jpg

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/101_1259.jpg

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/101_1260.jpg

alex carey
04-10-2009, 1:22 AM
looking good. im getting giddy.

Steve Frederick
04-10-2009, 7:20 AM
Looks great!
When is the concrete truck coming?:D:D
I like the idea of casting the sleeves in place for everything.
Good job! I'm getting inspired!

P.S. Did I miss it? What are you using to make the outer curves of the form?

Ray Pena
04-10-2009, 10:08 AM
Hi,

I have been following this thread for about two weeks now and have been interested in posting the following comment before you got too far. Unfortunately the forum moderators rejected all previous attempts to register an account. Luckily, fourth time’s the charm!!!

My background is in architecture. Architects in general do not design structure, but we have a basic understanding of the forces involved. I may be wrong but the diagram below shows my concerns. But first, Have you planned any reinforcement? I think there may be quite a bit of moment acting on the concrete, and without proper reinforcement you may be in for a nasty and dangerous surprise. At the very least the reinforcement will hold things together if there is a failure.

Concrete is only useful in compression (typically 2500 to 3000 psi for store bought mix), in this case the compression (C) side is shown on the left side of the centerline (neutral axis). The opposite side is in tension (T), for which concrete has a value of zero. The amount of moment acting on the spindle will be based on the weight, velocity and distance of the load (a lot when unbalanced).the load acting on the spindle will create a larger moment on the uprights; the further away the load is from a support, the greater the moment. Here, shear may play a more significant role than in buildings, so it may be something to consider.

Whichever reinforcement you use (you only need it for tension but an unbalanced load will put tension on both sides) you need to keep in mind that in order to build tension in the rebar, the bar needs to extend the minimum “development length” on either side of the moment point. This length depends on the tension force, compressive strength of the concrete and the size of the bar (larger diameter, longer development length). This may require you to make the foot of your lathe longer on both sides. Also for formed concrete you will need about 1.5 inches of cover over the rebar.

I am sorry, it seems that this has become a lesson in structural design. I would hate for you to go through the expense and time to build this beautiful machine only to find out that a small item was missed and it can’t be fixed; or worse. If you know an engineer, have them take a look

Good luck, Can’t wait to see it finished and the first bowl to be turned!!

Mark Norman
04-10-2009, 1:56 PM
I appreciate your input Ray,

I have extensive experience in structural concrete and am familiar with the benifits of the compressive forces for concrete as well as the moment forces acting on the column, (10 years as public works inspector;))

As for reinforcing,,, you will love this,,,It will be post-tensioned, The anchors for the pillow block bearings will extend all the way to the floor and be sleeved so when the bearing is attached it will effectively compress the whole column in the vertical axis.

You can see in the above pics I have the same thing going on for the horizontal axis by way of the 3/4 rods that will hold on the ways and 90 degrees from that I will have two rows of rods for the motor mount attachment. I will also have some steel rebar in it, hoops and stirrups. You may have noticed in the pics that I got 5000psi concrete for the project.

Just wait, You will fall off your chair when you see the steel I plan on using to hold the horizontal member to the upright. Just some left over bridge rebar thats been on the side yard for a few years... #11's lol..

I plan on casting it in three seperate pours, first is what you see here, and will be done "on its head" so to say, then I will lay it on its side after stripping the forms and cast the horizontal (the water main pipe), Then I will bring it upright and the last pour will be the small vertical support on the right end of the machine.

I called my supplier that supposed to be getting me the sheave and bushing for the headstock and apparently he is having difficulty getting a five inch sheave with a 1-3/4 bore so I told him I could have the spindle turned down to any size and to see if he could find one that is 1-1/2" or even 1" would work.

Lunch time is up, back to work...

Steve, you didnt miss nuthin, I havent disclosed it yet ;) tease tease tease....

Mark Norman
04-10-2009, 10:15 PM
I'll let the pictures speak for me:)

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/101_1261.jpg

Just so happens you can get aluminum flashin in 14" at the BORG..

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/101_1262.jpg

Just right!!


http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/101_1263.jpg

I picked up a few acorn nuts for a more finished look.

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/101_1264.jpg

Rusty steel could use sandblasting...

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/101_1265.jpg

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/101_1266.jpg

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/101_1267.jpg

Thinking....

Mock-up:

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/101_1268.jpg

alex carey
04-10-2009, 10:57 PM
That is going to be one SWEET lathe.

Richard Madison
04-10-2009, 11:20 PM
As the man who fell off the 20 story building was heard to say on the way down, "So far, so good". You have indeed considered many things (post #3) and provided much vicarious enjoyment for your readers. We can hardly wait for each new update.

Have been told (years ago) that rusty rebar actually bonds better with concrete than clean rebar. Assume you have access to more recent actual test data that may dispel this myth(?).

Looking good so far, and wish you continuing success.

Mark Norman
04-10-2009, 11:22 PM
Thanks Alex.
It's turned out to be a lot more work than I thought it would be in the begining.
It's working out well though.

I am pleased with the progress:D

Mark Norman
04-10-2009, 11:28 PM
As the man who fell off the 20 story building was heard to say on the way down, "So far, so good". You have indeed considered many things (post #3) and provided much vicarious enjoyment for your readers. We can hardly wait for each new update.

Have been told (years ago) that rusty rebar actually bonds better with concrete than clean rebar. Assume you have access to more recent actual test data that may dispel this myth(?).

Looking good so far, and wish you continuing success.
Thanks Richard.. you make me laugh...

I think too much sometimes...then I sleep on it. then Hopefully it comes together. If I can entertain along the way....all the better:)
Thanks again:)

Mark Norman
04-12-2009, 6:58 AM
http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/101_1271.jpg

The big (3/4") nuts will be recessed on the back side to keep it clean looking. I accomplished this with short pieces of pvc pipe. The washers will be embeded in the concrete.

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/101_1276.jpg

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/101_1272.jpg

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/101_1273.jpg

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/101_1277.jpg

I used gate hinges for the motor mount, many configurations are possible.:

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/101_1278.jpg

Bob Vallaster
04-12-2009, 2:29 PM
Mark,
I am in awe of your ingenuity.
This thread is packed with slick ideas and will likely spawn a bunch of 'me, too' projects.
Thanks for the inspiration.

BobV

Mark Norman
04-12-2009, 2:45 PM
Thanks for the kind words Bob. I cant wait to be mixing the concrete!:D

There is more to come...stay tuned;)

Steve Frederick
04-12-2009, 3:03 PM
Looking good!
http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/101_1278.jpg
Are you planning a way to steady the motor while running/hold belt tension?
My motor on my home built wobbled until I made it rigid.

Mark Norman
04-12-2009, 3:06 PM
Yeah Steve, I plan on having a turnbuckle, Haven't decided where to mount it just yet, above the motor or below?

Ron Lynch
04-12-2009, 3:26 PM
Mark,
Your motor mount is too flimsy for a three horse motor, should be a solid plate 1/4" min to hold the motor and there is probably too much slop in the hinge joint. Under load the motor will dance.

Mark Norman
04-12-2009, 3:54 PM
Mark,
Your motor mount is too flimsy for a three horse motor, should be a solid plate 1/4" min to hold the motor and there is probably too much slop in the hinge joint. Under load the motor will dance.
I agree, I'm not real happy with it Ron. It won't remain as it is, the round bar is just a piece of 1/2 aluminum I had hanging around the shop and used for a mock-up. I would like to find a bronze bushing that will fit the hinges and be tight on a 1/2 steel dowell or something. btw, I cheaped out and went with a two horse motor and figgure I could allways go bigger later if needed but I think two will do just fine.
I've stared at it for about an hour this morning...lol lol

Skip Spaulding
04-12-2009, 4:27 PM
Mark, this is great, like everyone else I can hardly wait to see it run! Sure looks like you're doing a fine job.

Mark Norman
04-12-2009, 5:50 PM
Thnk you Skip,
It realy has been a lot of fun. If it turns out and works well I just might market the lathe. I would invite known turners (or anyone from the creekfor that matter) to come up for a free test drive just for the reviews.
I'm thinking a web site is in order and I could even sell it in kit form.

Yes, that is an open invitation for the fine folks here, If yer ever in my neck of the woods feel free to stop by for beer and a test drive on the Monolathe :)

Ray Pena
04-13-2009, 12:09 PM
Mark,

Its coming together nicely! I didn't think of building it with an unbonded post tensioned system. Are you using standard threaded rod or did you locate some stronger material?

Ray

Mark Norman
04-13-2009, 8:43 PM
Mark,

Its coming together nicely!
Thanks Ray...

Are you using standard threaded rod or did you locate some stronger material?

Ray
I thought about it...briefly..
Carbon structural steel A-36 (standard threaded rod) has a yield strength of 250 MPa and ultimate strength of 400 MPa (or more).
250 x 145.037738 pounds-force per square inch or 63,260 yield strength per square inch.
a 1/2" diameter rod has a sectional surface area of 0.2^2"
Therefor 63,260 x .2 x 4 (#of rods) = 29,000 pounds yield strength.
or 46,400 pounds ultimate strength.

I don't think the machine will ever see 30k pounds of tensile forces acting on it do you?

I did follow up on the special order sheaves and they are due in Wednesday...Woot Woot!! I can finally get the spindle machined:D:D. With any luck the shop can have it done by the end of the week and I'll be mixing concrete next weekend.:D

I also stopped by OSH and picked up a few bronze bushings for the strap hinges today as well.. It will take a little work to make them fit the hinges but I'm capable. As well I have some steel stock to reinforce the motor mount.

Stay tuned...

alex carey
04-13-2009, 9:45 PM
2 HP should be enough unless you get REALLY serious. Until you starting turning stuff over 100 pounds regularly you should be fine.

Mark Norman
04-14-2009, 12:00 AM
2 HP should be enough unless you get REALLY serious. Until you starting turning stuff over 100 pounds regularly you should be fine.

Thats what I was thinking Alex. I can always upgrade later...

I've been fiddlin with the motor mounts tonight, ground down the bronze bushings and pressed em in the hinges. Nice precision fit:D Not 100% sure I like it but it will work till I come up with something beter. (should have got pics but its gettin late)

Nathan Hawkes
04-14-2009, 12:27 AM
I agree, I'm not real happy with it Ron. It won't remain as it is, the round bar is just a piece of 1/2 aluminum I had hanging around the shop and used for a mock-up. I would like to find a bronze bushing that will fit the hinges and be tight on a 1/2 steel dowell or something. btw, I cheaped out and went with a two horse motor and figgure I could allways go bigger later if needed but I think two will do just fine.
I've stared at it for about an hour this morning...lol lol


I think its more than just the hinge play should be considered; on my rockwell, (embarrassingly modified, but now a memory to the 3520B....) it would jump up about one-two inches when I turned it on, no matter what speed pulley I had the belt on, and very slightly when I was turning heavy blanks. I hadn't designed any way to completely lock the motor in a single plane; it was mounted on 1.5" x 12" stainless piano hinge. I had originally planned to figure something to keep it from moving, and to keep more tension on the belt than just the weight of the motor, but I never got around to it. This was really annoying, and I think contributed to some serious chatter when shear scraping. I don't have the same problems now; granted the stand on the 3520 is incomparably more stable, but I think the motor mount also contributes somewhat significantly as well.

Mark Norman
04-14-2009, 1:01 AM
Did You have a soft start programed on the VFD Nathan?
I am working on a tensioning devise for the motor....Pondering...

Nathan Hawkes
04-14-2009, 1:18 AM
Did You have a soft start programed on the VFD Nathan?
I am working on a tensioning devise for the motor....Pondering...


The rockwell had a 1phase motor without a VFD. It was definitely NOT soft starting!:D

Before I decided to just leave it, I had envisioned a plate at a right angle to the motor shelf, with an arc cut into it, and a tensioning bolt that anchored into another plate screwed to the frame. I wish I were more computer savvy---I need to learn googlesketch.

Mark Norman
04-14-2009, 1:19 AM
The inserts worked out well but I have other ideas in mind....Will do for now though..

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/101_1281.jpg

Mark Norman
04-14-2009, 1:28 AM
The rockwell had a 1phase motor without a VFD. It was definitely NOT soft starting!:D

Before I decided to just leave it, I had envisioned a plate at a right angle to the motor shelf, with an arc cut into it, and a tensioning bolt that anchored into another plate screwed to the frame. I wish I were more computer savvy---I need to learn googlesketch.
Like an automotive belt tensioner?
I'm thinking along the lines of a turnbuckle theme with spherical rod ends.

Mark Norman
04-14-2009, 1:34 AM
Turned out distorted big time...
Pounded it in the hinge....LOL LOL

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/101_1282.jpg

On my second attempt I turned the bushing down and it fit much better...

Kim Ford
04-14-2009, 1:28 PM
Mark;

I am following this closely and am very excited for you. However, and there always is a however. Share with me you plans for stablization for the x axis. (Front to back is y; left to right is x; and vertical is z.) It looks like y and z are covered and you may be planning a bed that will accomplish this but I just wanted to ask.

I assume you are going to pour some type leveling feet in the immediate spindle base as well.

Mark Norman
04-14-2009, 3:44 PM
Kim,
Reference post 86 you will see some big rebar, I will cast the body with the four pieces of rebar sticking out of the face way down low. Then ref post 61 and you will see the 8" water main pipe I plan on using for the body under the ways. Somewhere up there^^ I mention the process for casting the machine.
No, no leveling feet, I will dry-pack grout under it as needed/if needed.

And thanks for sharing in my excitement...

Back to work;)

Nathan Hawkes
04-14-2009, 7:13 PM
Like an automotive belt tensioner?
I'm thinking along the lines of a turnbuckle theme with spherical rod ends.
That's exactly what I had in mind with the auto belt tensioner. How would the spherical ends work??

Mark Norman
04-14-2009, 8:11 PM
That's exactly what I had in mind with the auto belt tensioner. How would the spherical ends work??

Hi Nathan,
The rod ends allow for misalignment in the members in which they are attached. I'll post up a pic later this evening when I get the mock up done. One of the design obstacles is the fact that the motor needs to allow for lateral movement for belt changes and so does the tensioner. I think I have it figgured out but I won't be sure until I get it mocked up and see how it all works together.

I just got home from work and soon to head out to the shop for more tinkerin:)

Richard Madison
04-14-2009, 9:35 PM
Hey Mark,
This is great fun for us watching your project evolve. Very considerate to take time to keep us posted.

Just realized I have not seen the lift eyes or slots for fork truck forks. Probably just missed that post, as am confident that you have provided for moving the lathe when complete. I think that your hinge and bushing motor mount is going to work fine.

Mark Norman
04-14-2009, 11:10 PM
Thanks Richard, I think part of the fun is sharing with you all and the encouragement you all provide me.

I'm getting a little frustrated with it tonight. The further along I get the more complicated it gets. All the things that need to be considered gets a little overwhelming.
On the surface it looks fairly simple but in three dimensions things start getting in the way of each other. I have to keep in mind the thickness of the wood forms that will go away after its cast.... I even considered loosing the jack-shaft altogether but I will work it out.

I haven't really considered lifting the machine because I don't plan on moving it once complete but I guess now is a good time to think about it (like I didn't have enough to think about :eek:) I don't think it would be real tough to attach something to the myriad of hardware I have sticking out of the concrete...lol lol Heck, I would bet you could lift it by the spindle, :eek: but I wouldn't...lol

BTW, I have an overhead trolly crane in the workshop capable of lifting a ton,,, literally... And I plan on positioning the lathe directly under one end of the hoist so I can use it to get large blanks up on the spindle as I age...:rolleyes:

I just came in the house cuz its getting real cold out tonight. 36 outside now and its April!!!

Mark Norman
04-15-2009, 12:45 AM
Let the pics speak for me...

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/101_1284.jpg

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/101_1285.jpg

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/101_1286.jpg

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/101_1289.jpg

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/101_1292.jpg

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/101_1293.jpg

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/101_1294.jpg

My trolley hoist I built into the shop when I built it..

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/101_1295.jpg

Its holding a BBC 454 at the moment..

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/101_1297.jpg


Edit...one more pic.

Cant wait till I get the sheaves tomorrow...

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/101_1300.jpg

alex carey
04-15-2009, 1:27 AM
looking great.

Mark Norman
04-15-2009, 1:44 AM
looking great.
Thanks Alex...

Feels great too...

Steve Frederick
04-15-2009, 9:23 AM
Nice solution with the tensioning device!
Will the end toward the floor get threaded LH to act as a turnbuckle?
Looks awesome!

Mark Norman
04-15-2009, 2:54 PM
Nice solution with the tensioning device!
Will the end toward the floor get threaded LH to act as a turnbuckle?
Looks awesome!

Thanks Steve,
and yes, with a lock nut.

Mark Norman
04-15-2009, 11:21 PM
I can now finalise the spindle length and have it machined. Just as I calculated at 18".

I refined the tensioning mount some tonight, I'm liking it a lot too. With any luck I can spec the spindle tomorrow and pick it up Friday and I will be mixin concrete this weekend. if not,,,next weekend it will happen. A few minor details need to be worked out but for the most part I have it all figgured out...<--famous last words...lol
Not enough progress to justify pics tonight but I have the camera at the ready;)

Stay tuned!!

Mark Norman
04-16-2009, 2:44 PM
The shop was apparently slow today. I stoped by on my morning break to order it and it was done by lunch time!!
The thing is heavy 12.25 lbs! Cant wait to get home with it and see how it all looks with the last piece of the puzzle.

The two litre pepsi bottle is dwarfed by the size of the spindle...

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/Spindle.jpg

Steve Frederick
04-16-2009, 4:53 PM
O-Baby! I'm getting excited!!
That looks great!

Mark Norman
04-16-2009, 8:25 PM
O-Baby! I'm getting excited!!

You and me both Steve!
Just got home with it and will be heading to the shop shortly. I have a bunch of other stuff to do this weekend but I think I'll find time Saturday to finish up the formwork and mix up the concrete Sunday morning.

I'll get a couple progress pics tonight and work on some details. I'm thinking of making provisions to mount the VFD on the front of the headstock column. I dont think vibration will be an issue for it....

I'll be back later with pics:D

Mark Norman
04-16-2009, 10:11 PM
I have an obsession with this stuff (building things) sometimes.
Some beef going into this thing!

Ok now for the pics....

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/101_1301.jpg

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/101_1302.jpg

The pulley (sheaves) allignment is spot on! Keep in mind the form removal will move the jackshft bearings inward about 5/8"
I'll fine tune the allignment when its all in final assembly.

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/101_1303.jpg

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/101_1304.jpg

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/101_1305.jpg

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/101_1306.jpg

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/101_1307.jpg

Chris Rae
04-17-2009, 2:54 AM
This is a very interesting project! I appreciate your taking the time to document it for us. I look forward to each installment, keep it coming. :)
Chris

Ben West
04-17-2009, 5:21 AM
I assume the spindle was machined to be a press fit within the pillow block bearings. What were your specified measurements there? ID bearings and OD spindle?

Quite impressive!

Mark Norman
04-17-2009, 1:09 PM
Thanks Chris,
I appreciate the feedback. It motivates me to keep posting on the projects progress. I'm glad you enjoy it.

Thank you too Ben,
Its not a press fit, the pillow block bearings have eccentric cam locks to hold onto the spindle (see the black collar on the bearing with the set screw). The design is quite simple and very effective. I just told the machinist what size pillow blocks I was using (1.750") and all he had to do was polish the 1.750 round stock. Makes for a real tight fit, which is a good thing.

Mark Norman
04-19-2009, 1:39 AM
http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/101_1334.jpg

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/101_1332.jpg

Richard Madison
04-19-2009, 10:03 AM
Mark,
That box does not look sturdy enough for a lathe. I think you should fill it with concrete.

Might also want to spray all those shiny metal parts with Boeshield T-9 to keep them shiny. I use it on my drill press column and various other "non-working" surfaces. Just a thought.

Mark Norman
04-19-2009, 12:35 PM
Hmmmm... concrete eh? I should have thought of that. lol

Thanks for the tip on the Boeshield T-9. I was wondering what to do with the spindle. The other metal parts will get a coat of automotive paint but I cant paint the spindle. Thanks again, I never heard of it but I googled it and looks to be just what I need!

I'm contemplating painting the inside of the 'box' prior to casting the concrete for a beter finish...man I make a lot of work for myself:crazy:

I have some time to spend on it today so lets see how far I get....

After another cup of coffee...

Stay tuned for the next installment...

Steve Frederick
04-20-2009, 12:00 PM
Well, did you work this weekend??;):rolleyes:
I'm jones-n for pics!!:cool:

Mark Norman
04-20-2009, 11:26 PM
Well, did you work this weekend??;):rolleyes:
I'm jones-n for pics!!:cool:


Sorry Steve, no pics, Nothing worth takin pics of really. I took it all apart and started sealing the inside of the forms with spray paint. I was eyeballing the lightweight auto body filler lol lol.

Working out a few minor details.
I picked up a 2-gang box at OSH to house the big red stop button today.

I think I will make provisions to mount the VFD to the face of the headstock just below the stop button. I really don't expect much vibration on the beast. and I can always extend the wiring and mount it remote at a later date.

Going out there in a few to putter a bit. If I get it all back together this week... well,,, fingers crossed...

Mark Norman
04-21-2009, 1:41 AM
Well, did you work this weekend??;):rolleyes:
I'm jones-n for pics!!:cool:


OK,,, ok,,
I just had to oblige...not much but its pics:)

the skeleton..

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/101_1360.jpg

And I put the big red stop button in a plastic box, it will be cast into the concrete..

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/101_1355.jpg

Im gonna sacrafice ten feet of my welder extension cord to use as a pigtail.

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/101_1361.jpg

Time for bed now so I'll see what I can get done tomorrow...and the next day,,,,and the next...

Steve Frederick
04-21-2009, 12:59 PM
OK,,, ok,,
I just had to oblige...not much but its pics:)



But I appreciate it!:D Thanks for the effort to share this with us.

Mark Norman
04-25-2009, 8:49 PM
The build is not dead but my camera is...well the memory card took a dump so I need ta get a new one to transfer pics.

So ya all will just have to trust me when I tell ya I'm making some progress on it.

Life gets in the way sometimes. springtime brings with it many chores around the house that need getting done and I was voted the only one capable to do em.

The build is not as simple as it appears on the surface but I have been able to overcome the hurdles as they come. I'm about ready to close up the form for the last time with the re bar installed. I need a few two by fours I'll pick up in the morning..

I am hesitant to move forward without pics to document the progress.

Richard Madison
04-26-2009, 12:36 AM
Mark,
Please do not continue without pictures, as it will leave an 18 minute (or longer) gap in your epic story.

Do you reformat your memory card? Have been told by a pro photographer that this should be done every so often to prevent the card from cratering. He said that whenever he fills a card and uploads it to the computer, he reformats the card. Just what I was told. Maybe others here know something about this.

Hope we get to see some concrete soon. And folks, it ain't see-ment. It's concrete, one minor constituent of which is cement. Just a pet peeve.

Matt Ranum
04-26-2009, 10:26 AM
In reference to an earlier post about painting it, look at "Hammered Finish" by Rust-Oleum. Big variety of colors and looks awesome on machinery. It hides all those deep scratches, dings, grinder marks very well. I used it when restoring my old 10ER Shopsmith.

Mark Norman
04-26-2009, 7:02 PM
I was ready to mix some concrete today...ran into some minor glitches. Real minor and maybe I'm being anal about it but I'm striving for perfection here so it has to be right,,,,exactly right....

There is a lot to be considered here before the casting is done.

Thanks for the suggestion on the hammered finish Matt, I have used the stuff with great success several times but I don't plan on painting it.

I'll be getting a new memory card soon Richard, I cant continue the thread without pics...I'm getting a few using the internal memory on the camera but I cant find the patch cable so I need the sandisc to transfer the pics to my pc for uploading.

I don't mean to be secretive but I don't want to give out all of the details on how its going together either. Some of it will just have to be left to yer imagination for the time bein...I need to get a patent started on this machine..:cool:

John Fricke
04-26-2009, 11:08 PM
This is a great project. I have no knowledge of the patent process, but I have a question. For a patent to be beneficial doesn't there have to be marketing potential in the product. It seems to me that the heft of this machine would make cost of shipping prohibitive. I may be way off base but it was just a thought that popped into my often empty head.

alex carey
04-27-2009, 12:14 AM
I don't know a lot about it but here is my guess. Make the entire thing without filling it with concrete yet. Move it to wherever it needs to go(it can't be that heavy). Then mix and fill it with concrete. I don't know how difficult mixing concrete is but I am assuming that just filling a box would be relatively simple and something anyone could do.

So basically sell it without the concrete.

Mark Norman
04-27-2009, 9:17 AM
Bingo Alex!

Sell a kit form. It would weigh a LOT less than most lathes in its class and mixing concrete is easy.

Steve Frederick
04-27-2009, 10:02 AM
I sell a Teardrop Trailer in kit form, Custom-Built units, as well as a plans package/builders manual.
In 5-years, I've sold a few kits, 6-custom rigs, but hundreds of plans/manuals.
I've found that shipping costs put an otherwise inexpensive DIY project over budget quickly.
Most folks like yourself, like the DIY mode..Think plans/parts list..IMHO..
If you offer it, they will buy, since you will have made/fixed the mistakes!;);)

Dave Schell
04-27-2009, 10:57 AM
At the risk of discouraging Mark from posting any further details in this fascinating thread, on the question of patentability though, if that is your intent, you should be cautious about openly discussing this in a public forum.

I've authored a few dozen patents and hundreds of technical disclosure bulletings through the high -tech company I work for. Our Patent Attorneys are always very cautious of where, when, and and to whom we have discussed our designs, because of the fears of placing them in the "public domain."

Publishing the details of an invention before applying for a patent will generally place an invention in the public domain and (in theory) prevent its subsequent patenting by anyone. In the US, you do have 1 year to actually file the patent from the date of it's first public disclosure though, so you do have a bit of time. Hope that helps.

Ray Pena
04-27-2009, 11:47 AM
This is a great project. I have no knowledge of the patent process, but I have a question. For a patent to be beneficial doesn't there have to be marketing potential in the product. It seems to me that the heft of this machine would make cost of shipping prohibitive. I may be way off base but it was just a thought that popped into my often empty head.


I think that by sharing the design and construction, and documenting it so well, that Mark is no longer eligible to pursue a patent. I may be wrong but i think Mark let the cat out of the bag when he started sharing. The good news is that you can dominate the market place with excellence instead of protection under the law.

Steve Frederick
04-27-2009, 12:08 PM
I think that by sharing the design and construction, and documenting it so well, that Mark is no longer eligible to pursue a patent. I may be wrong but i think Mark let the cat out of the bag when he started sharing. The good news is that you can dominate the market place with excellence instead of protection under the law.
This is how I decided to market plans/Support for my products.
You can get a copyright for the project documents.

Dave Schell
04-27-2009, 12:46 PM
Mark, if you don't mind sharing, just curious how the costs for this project are running? I'm sure the motor and drive were some of the the most expensive parts - but what other surprise costs have you seen? From building my Vicmarc, I know sometimes it's all the little stuff that adds up.

Also, I'm still very fuzzy how how the bed looks and attaches to the concrete form of the headstock? I guess I don't understand the whole uni-strut idea.

And for the banjo - are you thinking an aftermarket one? Tailstock? Same thing?

Mark Norman
04-27-2009, 9:02 PM
Thanks for the info Dave, I'll be shooting you a pm.

Although I did not have any intentions of marketing it in any form when I started the build the thought of doing so is intriguing. I have no idea of how to go about getting a patent but I guess it would be worth looking into.
I don't think I'll have more than $1,500 in it when all is said and done. But yeah the little unexpected costs tend to add up quick like. Its real easy to spend a hundred bucks on hardware for the odds and ends not originally accounted for in the budget but that's what R&D is all about. I have a bunch of odds and ends in the shop to utilize for mocking stuff up and that helps ome.
As for more details on the build you will just have to wait and see.:D
Do you (or anyone) have a lead on where I might get a banjo or tail stock in the aftermarket world? I havent been able to locate much on the net. I prety much figgured I would have them fabricated, having a master metal fabricator at my disposal.

Back to the shop to putter with it and refine a few odds and ends.
Stay tuned for the next installment...
Mark

alex carey
04-27-2009, 9:29 PM
I am pretty sure Oneway and Powermatic sell their banjo's separately. Just go to their site and give them a call or email.

Mark Norman
04-27-2009, 10:38 PM
I am pretty sure Oneway and Powermatic sell their banjo's separately. Just go to their site and give them a call or email.

I bet they do but I haven't been able to find em on their website. I'm thinking since I have the resource to have them fabricated that will be the avenue I pursue first. Add another hundred bucks in "hardware" lol.

a few pics uploading....

Mark Norman
04-27-2009, 10:53 PM
Man, I spend a lot of time taking it all apart just to put it back together

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/100_1388.jpg

The box that will house the big red "STOP" button ;)

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/100_1389.jpg

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/100_1390.jpg

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/100_1391.jpg

Getting ready to invert it for the casting..
(I will take the pulley off the spindle) the spindle needs to be in place when casting the concrete to keep the pillow block bearings aligned.

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/100_1392.jpg

The front...

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/100_1393.jpg

and the back.

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/100_1394.jpg

This will be the adjustable mounting for the motor tensioner:

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/100_1399.jpg

alex carey
04-27-2009, 11:41 PM
Yeah, I'd think about getting it fabricated. I think the big oneway banjos are like 400$.

Mark Norman
04-28-2009, 12:17 AM
Yeah, I'd think about getting it fabricated. I think the big oneway banjos are like 400$.
I'd be willing to bet a tailstock would run me $800 :eek:

alex carey
04-28-2009, 3:10 AM
Wow, really its that much...that is depressing. That is like 1/8 the 24" lathe.

Nathan Hawkes
04-28-2009, 11:25 AM
Dumb question; are you coating the fiberboard so it doesn't swell with the moisture from the concrete? Just asking b/c the(dry) yellow pine boards I had around my footing for my powermatic cupped so much afterwards that they were unusuable for even shelves.

Dick Strauss
04-28-2009, 10:37 PM
Mark,
Post a request for the items you need. I did and had great luck getting what I needed. I know there is one guy that has an extra Delta 16" tailstock he'd like to sell for $75 (though I can't remember his name and deleted his note). Sometimes folks end up with extra parts after warranty issues arise. The parts might not be ideal but usable with modifications (like a riser block for the tailstock).

Your lathe is coming along nicely!

Mark Norman
04-28-2009, 11:22 PM
Yes Nathan, coating the inside of the forms in one of the details that needs to be addressed.. and I am working on that. Its also why I went with the particle board for the stability of the material.

Thanks Dick,
I'll consider posting a request for the tail stock and banjo but I think they will be fabricated. I have a guy that says he can do it and I believe he can so he will get a shot at it first.

I'm getting excited but I need to keep my cool and not jump the gun.

Rasmus Petersen
04-29-2009, 1:08 AM
well i have a lather builder not 10 miles from here.. They have been building lathes since 62, and he might be cheaper than 1200 $ for the 2 things...

alex carey
04-29-2009, 4:07 AM
wonder how much shipping would be though?

Rasmus Petersen
04-29-2009, 7:33 AM
no idea.. how much it would be

Dave Mueller
04-29-2009, 10:05 AM
Mark,
I built my own lathe out of laminated plywood, not concrete. The laminated plywood cuts much easier than concrete on my table saw. ;>)

I did buy the Oneway banjo from Highland Woodworking, where it was a little cheaper than directly from Oneway. However, I just looked at both sites and the price was the same - $291US. Check the Oneway site for dealers and you may find it cheaper somewhere else.

The Oneway is a great banjo, although I did put a small spring on the bolt between the banjo and the plate that fits under the ways. This pushes them apart when the banjo is loose and keeps it from jamming when you try to slide it across the ways.

Good luck on building your lathe.

Bob Bergstrom
04-29-2009, 8:55 PM
Take a good look at the Vega Bowl Lathe. The banjo looks fairly easy to copy and the tail stock might be adapted to your lathe.

Mark Norman
04-29-2009, 10:15 PM
First off thanks all for the help! :)

Bob, It was the Vega 2600 that was the inspiration for me to build my concrete lathe and I "borrowed" a few ideas from that very machine. I was about to purchase one but wanted the VS version and at over $3k just a hair out of reach for me. Thats when I started looking at how simple the machine could be. The Vega just epitomized the simplicity that was needed for a dedicated bowl lathe and I was inspired. I have some engineering experience and am familiar with the mechanics and properties of the proposed materials. By post tensioning the pillow block bearings to the mass of concrete I have effectively wrapped the mass of the headstock column around the spindle. Thus the need for a beefy spindle and bearings. I'm dieing to get the concrete mixed and placed but I have a family of five and many other priority obligations.

And as someone said in the early stages of this thread I need to take my time and do it right the first time. I have been distracted from the original intent of the project and that is to make a machine that I could use to turn bowls and my mind wandered to the possibility of producing or otherwise profiting from my idea. That could be a good thing and may pan out and that would be cool but I need to take the project to completion and start making shavings:) LOL LOL ... Yeah, I am ready for the concrete:cool:Is it Friday yet? I just don't have the energy to do it on a weeknight after a long day at work. Mixing eight or ten bags of concrete is do-able if I was doing fence posts but placing it in the form and making sure all is right needs me to be at my best. I only have one shot at it really and I want to be proud of it. My flagship so to say..

I want to thank all you guys (and Gal;)) that have helped along the way with the suggestions and the words of encouragement.

Stay tuned. be sure to check back Saturday afternoon.. No I don't intend on milking the project anymore. I'm getting anxious.

Chris Rae
04-29-2009, 10:17 PM
I'm looking forward to Saturday Mark! This is one cool project!

Steve Frederick
04-29-2009, 10:26 PM
I'm looking forward to Saturday Mark! This is one cool project!
Ditto! Very cool indeed!

Richard Madison
04-29-2009, 10:35 PM
As noted in post #3, you have indeed considered and addressed many things. The probability of having an excellent result seems very high. Best of luck!

Mark Norman
04-30-2009, 12:22 AM
More thanks to all your help with this endeavor. I believe you Richard, I have a good probability of sucess on this build. :D :D
Its been a labor of passion:)
Steve, thanks for the encouragment, You Too Chris:cool:

alex carey
04-30-2009, 12:28 AM
I might just cancel my plans on Saturday and just sit at my computer waiting to see the pics. How long will it take to dry before you can use it?

Mark Norman
04-30-2009, 1:05 AM
After casting the concrete it will have to "cure" for at least a day or so before removing the forms. The longer the better, and I wont put any stress on it for a week at least. That means vibrations of any sort.
After I cast the headstock it will be a few days to set up for the second pour (the body of the machine) and a few days after that for the final pour (The foot).
Concrete is measured at a 28 day strength value so I wont be turning wood for a few weeks at best.

Mark Norman
05-02-2009, 11:37 PM
Ready to go upside down..
http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/100_1408.jpg

Got to button it up first

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/100_1412.jpg

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/100_1415.jpg

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/100_1417.jpg

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/100_1419.jpg

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/100_1420.jpg

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/100_1422.jpg

Up side down... one side done..

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/100_1423.jpg

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/100_1424.jpg

Mark Norman
05-02-2009, 11:39 PM
http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/100_1426.jpg

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/100_1432.jpg

Place concrete here...


http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/100_1433.jpg

alex carey
05-02-2009, 11:46 PM
looking good, im excited for the concrete.

Mark Norman
05-02-2009, 11:52 PM
looking good, im excited for the concrete.
Tomorrow Alex... patience my friend;)

I'm excited too:D

Mark Norman
05-03-2009, 8:36 PM
Uploading pics but its not real exciting...like watchin paint dry now..

I just hope it works like I expect it to. Stay tuned for the pics.

Mark Norman
05-03-2009, 10:05 PM
http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/100_1441.jpg

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/100_1443.jpg

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/100_1451.jpg

Looking at this tree with a diffrent perspective;)

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/100_1460.jpg

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/100_1461.jpg

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/100_1464.jpg

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/100_1465.jpg

This is me and cricket the horse...sweet animal...

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/100_1472.jpg

Steve Frederick
05-03-2009, 10:23 PM
:D:D:DWow! Now you wait for the cure??
This has been a great project!

Mark Norman
05-03-2009, 10:31 PM
:D:D:DWow! Now you wait for the cure??
This has been a great project!


Yeah, and play with the horses and make the trees scared;)

Thanks Steve, it is a fun project and I am just crazy enough to do it!:D

alex carey
05-03-2009, 10:35 PM
Ever since I started turning, I started to go up to trees and smell them, touch them and visualize what I could do with them. The vortex is affecting you quite a bit if your doing the same thing.

What do you estimate your lathe to weigh in at?

John Fricke
05-03-2009, 10:35 PM
Did you use a vibrator as you filled the form?

Richard Madison
05-03-2009, 11:12 PM
As the man who fell off the top of a 20 story building was heard to say on the way down, "So far, so good".

Mark Norman
05-03-2009, 11:14 PM
I used a rubber mallet John....a lot!

Six sacks so far Alex, at 80# each that's damn near 500# and I'm not done yet!:eek:

the trees are talking to me... begging....I hug them in appreciation...:p

Mark Norman
05-03-2009, 11:16 PM
As the man who fell off the top of a 20 story building was heard to say on the way down, "So far, so good".
LOL again...

you sound a lil pessimistic there Richard..

Richard Madison
05-03-2009, 11:38 PM
Mark, am assuming that the fellow somehow managed a soft landing.

Edit: After the concrete sets there will still be some residual moisture content (?%), so that will add a few more pounds.

Mark Norman
05-04-2009, 12:13 AM
I pray for a soft landing Richard....lol lol

The machine is only half built. I have another six bags of concrete yet:eek:

Thanks for the warm wishes..

Norm Zax
05-04-2009, 4:32 AM
Following the process with awe!
Two short ones: What is the engineering reasoning behind building the thing in pieces? Wouldnt one pour to create on slab be the best? And how, by the way, have you stopped the concrete from going all the way down? (must have missed a thread or a pic.) 2. What say you all that Mark start a new thread. Ive been having lots of difficulty finding the latest messages. In fact I search for Mark's "all posts" and go on from there. Been like that for a while now.
We're 101% behind you!
Norm
Added 4 hours later: I read the replies and switched to "Linear". What a relief! Please don't continue to reply to this question of mine folks.

Dave Schell
05-04-2009, 8:54 AM
Norm, I too was having a hard time finding the latest post in this long series. Then I did some looking around the page. On the top right, is a menu bar with a choice of "Display Modes" on it. Select that drop down menu and in it will be a choice for "Linear Mode." Select that mode and the thread will be just one long series. From there, it is easy to select "Last Page" to get to the last page of posts. You likely are in "hybrid mode" now which can be a bit tricky to navigate. Good luck.

Bob Vallaster
05-04-2009, 8:55 AM
Norm,
Check "Display Modes," right side on the tool bar at the top of the page. Linear Mode should put should put the posts in chronological order for you.

BobV

Edit: Dave is clearly quicker on the draw...

Mark Norman
05-04-2009, 9:15 AM
Fabrication limitations Norm..

+1 go linear on the forum. much easier to follow.

Richard Madison
05-04-2009, 9:32 AM
Mark,
Awoke thinking about concrete this morning. Are you doing anything to slow the drying in order to prevent cracking? Am not suggesting that you Anchorseal and bag it, but just wondering.

Bob Bergstrom
05-04-2009, 10:30 AM
Take a good look at the Vega Bowl Lathe. That banjo looks pretty easy to copy and the tailstock looks doable also. Nice looking project. Good Luck.

Mark Norman
05-05-2009, 12:44 AM
I have Bob, thanks!

Richard... lol lol, I did too:) Its in good hands....

I got a bunch of pics of the "unveiling" I made a stop action vid...just another hobie of mine...

Till it uploads I offer you concrete!!:D:D:

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/100_1515.jpg

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/100_1535.jpg

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/100_1538.jpg

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/100_1539.jpg

Stay tuned!!

Peter Luch
05-05-2009, 3:25 AM
Did you place any kind of rebar or wire mesh on the bottom?

If not I fear for the feet sticking out and that they may crack.

Don't move it for 7 days......please!!
Let it set up real good, the longer the better.

It looks great, you did some real fantastic planning on this and it should pay off.

Aloha, Pete

alex carey
05-05-2009, 4:01 AM
While helping my dad with some sort of cement project I recall him saying the more water the cement absorbs the stronger it is. Every hour my dad would squirt the cement with a bottle. Is that true and are you doing the same thing?

Mark Norman
05-05-2009, 9:41 AM
Thanks Peter, and yes I put steel in the feet. Thanks, I have put a lot of thought into it.

Yeah Alex, yer dad knew what he was doing;)
As soon as I had it striped I wet it down good and I was out there every hour soaking it with a sponge bath then I wrapped it up in a tarp to keep the moisture in. The slower it cures the better. Like wood if it drys faster on the outside than the inside it is susceptible to cracking.

Nigel Tracy
05-05-2009, 10:06 AM
That is awesome. It looks like a whale's tail :)

Mike Stephens
05-05-2009, 11:23 AM
Its a whales tail bowl lathe. Awesome build. Mark you are the concrete man. The best of luck to you with your new lathe. May it bring you a lifetime of pleasure and wooden treasures.

Mark Norman
05-05-2009, 9:14 PM
Thanks Nigel and Mike:D It does look like a whale tail breaching the water don't it :)

Watching the concrete cure is akin to watching paint dry...only slower...

Brian McInturff
05-05-2009, 9:31 PM
Mark,
I've not chimed in yet but must say I'm impressed. I've followed the postings since you've started and keep waiting for something terrible to happen. Barring something tragic it looks like you've done an incredible feat.Give yourself a pat on the back. Truly an undertaking, from the design process to now, the finished product. Kudos to you sir.

Mark Norman
05-05-2009, 9:40 PM
It's not done yet but it looks like I'm on the home stretch:D It has been a fun project.

I could have bought a lathe and started turning right away but eventually I would be wanting something bigger (I know me:)) I know if I spent the cash for an intermediate lathe not being able to afford a PM or even a mayo or Nova, I would be old before I could upgrade so I had to dive in with both feet..Sometimes the journey is half the fun...

got two minutes to kill? I pasted a buncha pics together and added a lil David Mathews...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QppYX16l-rc

Cant wait to post pics of my first bowl turned on the monster. I'll get pics;)

Joe Mioux
05-05-2009, 10:12 PM
Mark, this thread has been really fun and educational..... and, the You tube video is a great touch.

joe

Steve Frederick
05-05-2009, 10:23 PM
Great video!
Nice sound track. I love DMB!

Mark Norman
05-05-2009, 10:39 PM
Mark, this thread has been really fun and educational..... and, the You tube video is a great touch.

joe

Thanks Joe, I enjoy entertaining, what can I say?
As for the video, photography is something I enjoy...LOL what else do I do while the concrete gets hard?

TY Steve, I dig the music too!

Dick Strauss
05-06-2009, 12:15 AM
Mark,
I've been thinking about something...If you decide to sell this as a kit, you might consider selling fiberglass panels to act as the form. This willl make it more user friendly IMHO and is a bigger value ad for you (hopefully tranlating into a higher profit for you).

I can't wait to see the lathe in action!!!

Mark Norman
05-06-2009, 12:42 AM
Dick, what would ya think of a fiberglass mold? one piece, just fill with concrete and the mold/form gel-coat would be the finish product? Just stuff it with the steel bits prior to filling with concrete? Just figgurin out the logistics of a fail safe way a novice could fill it with concrete when upright and in place. A funnel of sorts on the back and the motor could be utilized as a vibrator with a bob weight on it at the right speed.

You will have to wait to see it spin just like me...I cant wait either;)

alex carey
05-06-2009, 1:16 AM
Love watching the progression on the video. Love me some Dave Matthews also. Good stuff.

Maylon Harvey
05-06-2009, 9:29 PM
Like Brian, I haven't commented yet and I imagine there are quite a few others out there in the same boat. But I have been following your progress from the beginning with great interest. It has been very interesting and I look forward to seeing your daily progress each night when I sign in. Thanks for taking the time to document your progress for us to see. Nice You Tube also. Cute little helper, did she get to sign the bottom of the pour with her little hand? If not, maybe on the next pour.

Mark Norman
05-06-2009, 9:54 PM
Thank you so much Maylon, You too for your continuing support Alex. And you are welcome for the progress updates. 'Tis my pleasure..

It's been two months from concept to concrete and I hope to be spinning wood veddy soon. It's taken longer than I thought it would but isn't that always the case with such a project?:p My youngest daughter Sami is quite the lil helper and is caught in the vortex with me:D:D I'll put some thought into how we all can leave our mark on it. Maybee a token of some sort placed in the last pour.

Thanks again, I'm gonna go stare at it and drink a beer:)

Mark Norman
05-07-2009, 12:50 AM
I just couldnt help myself

I just had to make some progress tonight. I offer you all a few pics before I call it a night.

Suspended from the hoist...

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/100_1543.jpg

Approaching the landing...
http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/100_1545.jpg

I'm a lil nervous at this point and I am surprised I took the time for a pic

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/100_1546.jpg

We have landing!!

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/100_1549.jpg

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/100_1551.jpg

Fitting the horizontal member...

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/100_1554.jpg

Test fitting the ways way up high..

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/100_1557.jpg

And low..

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/100_1558.jpg

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/100_1559.jpg

WOW!! 28" over the ways! Thats a 56" swing:eek: Dont think I'll ever need that much...

Mark Norman
05-07-2009, 1:01 AM
I plan on having the ways in the top mount for 90% of the time and that provides me with 12" over the ways. I think I will work on making bowls for a few months with it set up like that but (always a but right?) I will no doubt push the limit and try something outrageously big...Thats the way I roll...:)

I need to fabricate a free standing tool rest..

I hope I dont hurt myself:eek:

Richard Madison
05-07-2009, 1:30 AM
Fifth picture: Oh crap, he's mounted the spindle on the side of the headstock, facing the floor. Last picture: Whew, that's better. So far, so good. Would be willing to bet that you have some data on how much post-tension torque to apply and how long to wait before doing that.

alex carey
05-07-2009, 2:24 AM
I can't wait to see you push the limits, I LOVE seeing big turning, it just looks like so much fun, biggest I've turned is 30 inches, hopefully I'll get a chance to really test my mustard one day.

Looking good.

Chris Rae
05-07-2009, 12:42 PM
This is just so cool!! Everyday I can't wait to see if there are more pictures. Too bad we are all so far apart that we can't have a big party when you're done.:D

Mark Norman
05-07-2009, 11:27 PM
Fifth picture: Oh crap, he's mounted the spindle on the side of the headstock, facing the floor. Last picture: Whew, that's better. So far, so good. Would be willing to bet that you have some data on how much post-tension torque to apply and how long to wait before doing that.
LOL,, fifth picture: time for a cold one;)
I have already started the compression forces on the concrete with the steel rods Richard. This is one reason why a novice should NOT attempt such an undertaking. You have to know how concrete works and how induced stresses react within the structure. I have experience with post-tensioned and prestressed concrete. The steel and concrete have to work in unison to achieve maximum strength. There are a few details I have intentionally left. You can guess why;)



I can't wait to see you push the limits, I LOVE seeing big turning, it just looks like so much fun, biggest I've turned is 30 inches, hopefully I'll get a chance to really test my mustard one day.

Looking good.

Thanks alex, I plan on picking up a load of black walnut this Saturday. When I called my buddy with the wood he tells me they are huge by big:eek: Like three feet DBD big!! I cant wait to see what he has, Its a two hour drive and after I pick up the wood I will drive another hour to Sacramento to pick up my new-to-me-used 17 Grizz band saw from another creeker. Then three plus hour drive home with the anticipation of casting the next part Saturday night or Sunday morning..

I need a chuck for it but I have depleted the available funds with the purchase of the Grizz... Hard to pass up the One way talon thats on sale but I'm not sure it will fit the bill for such a large machine as mine. Maybee a teknatool SuperNova 2 would fit the bill? IDK, I'm still a novice in this arena.


This is just so cool!! Everyday I can't wait to see if there are more picThis is just so cool!! Everyday I can't wait to see if there are more pictures. Too bad we are all so far apart that we can't have a big party when you're done.:D tures. Too bad we are all so far apart that we can't have a big party when you're done.:D

Chris Rae, If yer ever in the neighborhood, feel free to stop by for a cup of coffee and we can spin wood together:D

I met another turner today, He's into it big time and I wish I could have talked to him more but at least I got his business card and the name of the club he belongs to. www.sequoiawoodturners.org (http://www.sequoiawoodturners.org) I plan on joining and get to know some turners in my lacale.

Well, gonna go putter a bit with it. Stay tuned:)

Jeff Nicol
05-07-2009, 11:35 PM
Mark, I think I now have to make a big giant lathe to compete with you!! It is something to behold! You have really thought it out and I or should I say "WE" the members of the "VORTEX" are completly impressed!! Thanks so much for sharing your project with us!

Jeff

Mark Norman
05-08-2009, 12:16 AM
Mark, I think I now have to make a big giant lathe to compete with you!! It is something to behold! You have really thought it out and I or should I say "WE" the members of the "VORTEX" are completly impressed!! Thanks so much for sharing your project with us!

Jeff
Jeff,
Many fine folks here in the creek have contributed to the build of this machine. I feel obligated to share with those that have helped along the way. Thank you!

Its a symbiotic relationship:)... next we sing kumbaya:D

Jeff Nicol
05-08-2009, 10:33 PM
Jeff,
Many fine folks here in the creek have contributed to the build of this machine. I feel obligated to share with those that have helped along the way. Thank you!

Its a symbiotic relationship:)... next we sing kumbaya:D
Mark, You are talented and "GOOFY" too!!!! I think we are all waiting for the first spin of the "Beast"!! Raining here tonight and most of the day tomorrow, so I will spend some time on the lathes. I need to prime 2 steady rests and finish welding another 24" so I am not lacking things to do either!

Great progress,

Jeff

Mark Norman
05-08-2009, 11:33 PM
Yep Jeff, ya got me all figgured out;) The world would be a nicer place if more were goofy and less were violent or mean.. Mean people suk!

I hope to post a double gloat tomorrow. It will be busy day away from home so I wont have time to make the next step on the monster. It needs time to cure anyway.

Steve Frederick
05-09-2009, 12:07 PM
... The world would be a nicer place if more were goofy and less were violent or mean.. Mean people suk!...

Yeah! I like the peaceful, but goofies! :eek: Been one most of my life!
We would prolly get along just fine!;)

Mark Norman
05-10-2009, 10:51 AM
Busy gettin me some wood suitable for such a beast:D:D

Keep it goofy my friend:D:)

Mark Norman
05-10-2009, 11:42 PM
http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/100_1595.jpg

Bart Leetch
05-11-2009, 1:01 AM
I lifted this photo of a concrete lathe from somewhere on the net. I'm ashamed to say I don't remember where. It looks like he uses a jack shaft mounted on a frame or some bolts cast in the base. I thought it would be cool to make an outdoor version for really big blanks. Cast it right down below the frost line. God luck with yours!

This is Vernon Lambert's shop I've been in his shop. The shaft is mounted in pillow blocks & turned by a 3 HP motor the block weighs about 1000#.

You can see more pics & description at this URL.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=93112

Mark Norman
05-11-2009, 1:22 AM
This is Vernon Lambert's shop I've been in his shop. The shaft is mounted in pillow blocks & turned by a 3 HP motor the block weighs about 1000#.

You can see more pics & description at this URL.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=93112


Thanks Bart...Good info in that thread! Did Andrew ever finish his lathe?

Mark Norman
05-14-2009, 11:28 PM
I'm suprised no one noticed the new chuck.

After some serious research here I ended up getting the Super Nova 2 and the guys at woodcraft were impressed with my selection after admitting I am a noob at this... I was pleased...

Well, this past weekend I didn't work on it due to other commitments (Like fetching a load of nice wood and a band saw)

I placed the concrete in the pipe that will serve as the body of the machine after a lot of consideration and pondering. The white stuff is not concrete bonding agent but rather the opposite, its anchorseal. I figgured if I ever wanted to move it it would be a lot easier if it were two pieces so that will serve as a parting joint. I could just pull the four rods and in theory it will come apart.

Not a whole lot to see but I did get pics...(thought I wouldn't?)

I shimmed the headstock till it was level as possible in both axis.

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/100_1623.jpg

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/100_1625.jpg

I added the 1/2" allthread and pvc pipe that will be the compressive forces on the body of the lathe.

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/100_1622.jpg

Anchorseal to facilitate seperating the two halves if I ever have a need to..

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/100_1639.jpg

And the concrete..

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/100_1641.jpg

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/100_1642.jpg

It's not plumb in this shot but I did plumb it true after the pic was taken..

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/100_1643.jpg

My helper doing her homework in the workshop so she can be with me says Hi...

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/100_1634-1.jpg

Richard Madison
05-14-2009, 11:59 PM
Hi Helper. Always good to have a helper.

Mark Norman
05-15-2009, 12:42 AM
She is learnin the names of all me tools too.

I have two lil helpers that are dying to turn bowls with me.

Soon I tell em... soon...

Bart Leetch
05-15-2009, 1:02 AM
Wow A pretty fancy new Brooklyn Bridge.:eek::D

What size tree are you going to turn on that monster?

Mark Norman
05-15-2009, 1:14 AM
What size tree are you going to turn on that monster?

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/100_1643.jpg

ya see the big oak in the background? Its off limits, but under the blue tarp I have some big black walnut beauties just waiting to 'go for a spin' so to say;)
Details on the walnut:
http://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=111817

alex carey
05-15-2009, 1:21 AM
they're not the only ones dieing to turn bowls with you, this is gonna be some monster :D. Once again looking good.

Steve Frederick
05-15-2009, 9:41 AM
I have two lil helpers that are dying to turn bowls with me.
Soon I tell em... soon...
That, my friend, is priceless!
Keep encouraging that!
Glad to see that you quit slackin' and got back to work on the Monster.:rolleyes:
Looks great BTW!

Mark Norman
05-16-2009, 7:41 PM
That, my friend, is priceless!
Keep encouraging that!
Glad to see that you quit slackin' and got back to work on the Monster.:rolleyes:
Looks great BTW!


Yes Steve, Sharing time with the kids is time well spent.

I have it upright and in place now.
Just gotta pour the foot and put it all back together. I'm forming up the foot now and plan on placing the concrete for it tomorrow.

I'll be working some O.T. tonight so I am about done for today.
But I did get some pics for an update:)

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/100_1666.jpg

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/100_1667.jpg

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/100_1668.jpg

The heel of the headstock encroaches into the doorway a bit but I want to face out of the shop while turning.
Its a 4' door so I still have plenty of room to get by.

alex carey
05-16-2009, 8:16 PM
keep in mind where you'll be standing, you'll probably want to get some of that stuff out of the way.

John Fricke
05-16-2009, 10:45 PM
Bout time to give this honey a name don't you think?

Mark Norman
05-16-2009, 11:12 PM
Alex, you have no idea how I have pondered over where is best to land this thing. I think I can get the stuff out of my way. lol lol

Any ideas on what to call this monster? Mustard is taken, same with Mayo. Ketchup ain't workin for me.:D

John Fricke
05-16-2009, 11:52 PM
Grey Poupon, Dijon, Miracle Whip, Jets are sometimes called Mayo lites.......how about Mayo heavy.

Concrete Lathe in

French-tour beton
Polish-konkretnych tokarka
Danish- konkrete drejebænk
German-Beton-Drehmaschine
Italian-concreti tornio
Portugese-concretos Torno
Swedish-konkreta svarv

phil harold
05-17-2009, 12:36 AM
Any ideas on what to call this monster? Mustard is taken, same with Mayo. Ketchup ain't workin for me.:D

Tabasco
or
Habanero

Mark Norman
05-17-2009, 3:53 AM
I love it John, Miracle whip...lol lol...

Phil, spicy, I like but I dont know....

I still like the 'MONOLATHE' as I called when it was first concieved.

Norm Zax
05-17-2009, 4:54 AM
Big Bertha or General Grant (after the sequoia giant)!

phil harold
05-17-2009, 8:29 AM
I love it John, Miracle whip...lol lol...

Phil, spicy, I like but I dont know....

I still like the 'MONOLATHE' as I called when it was first concieved.

your lathe is going to burn thru some wood...

why did you name it MonoLathe?
Mono means one and yours will have two spindles?

Dick Strauss
05-17-2009, 11:40 AM
How about TUTA...The Urban Tree Assaulter...or maybe TUFF...The Urban Forest Frightener!

Mark Norman
05-17-2009, 2:40 PM
I think I'll just call it the monsterlathe, originaly it was going to be monolathe because it was to be monolithic concrete but thats not the case.
I'm loading up the ole pickup to make a dump run but when I get back I'll finish the tune-up on my bandsaw, clean up the shop a little and finish the final assy of the monster including the final concrete placement of the foot.
Now that I got it in place I need to mount the vfd on the wall and hook up the electrical connections.
I promise to mount a piece of wood on it befor next weekend. I don't know what I will be doing for a tool rest until I have my friend the welder come up and weld the ways and banjo for me. I'll make up something though...

Chris Rae
05-17-2009, 7:32 PM
Why not call it the Tornado, clouds are gray like concrete and that thing is going to spin wood like crazy and make giant clouds of shavings whip around everywhere. I sure am enjoying the thread!

Mark Norman
05-17-2009, 8:24 PM
I'm kinda likin that Chris... Its got a nice spin to it...:) pun intended:p

Lets see if it grows on me any.. Maybee The Cyclone?

Richard Madison
05-17-2009, 8:32 PM
Mark,
One of our dogs is named after a racing driver. Consider naming your lathe after your favorite Nascar driver who goes fast in a circle (and sometimes accidently hits the wall).

Mark Norman
05-18-2009, 1:30 AM
I had a lil time today to work on it but not as much as I would have liked..
I worked on the form for the foot and the mounting of the chuck on the spindle.
just a few pics of todays progress...

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/100_1676.jpg

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/100_1672.jpg

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/100_1674.jpg

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/100_1671.jpg

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/100_1677.jpg

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t116/triangle5/lathe%20build/100_1678.jpg

Richard Madison
05-18-2009, 10:27 AM
Ok, not a Nascar fan. Well, it has a big white tube down the center like a One-Way lathe. Consider calling it a "My Way" lathe, or maybe a "Mark's Way". I like that. It's a "Marks-Way".

Dave Schell
05-18-2009, 11:20 AM
Since that tube is filled with concrete, why not cut it off now that the concrete has cured? Just my aesthetic opinion, but I think the whole thing would look better as all concrete - the pvc tube appears a bit weak and cheap next to the massive concrete headstock.

Ray Pena
05-18-2009, 11:33 AM
Hi Mark,

You are making great progress, the whole thing looks fantastic. I like the plain homogeneous color of the concrete and the contrast it will create once all the other items are added. Im not sure why it needs a name, i think the craftsmanship speaks for itself.

I have read "monster lathe" and "the beast" as possibilities but i think that it would cheapen the whole experience by naming it at all. The journey of building it has created wonderful memories for all of the followers of this thread (and for you as well i am sure).

I have a friend who is a machinist whose largest lathe swings 32" with a 20' (yes feet) length between centers.i am attaching images of REALLY MASSIVE lathes for comparison from small to large. look for the men for scale, the last one is a bit tricky because you don't expect the lathe to be quite this large.

alex carey
05-18-2009, 4:12 PM
Ok, not a Nascar fan. Well, it has a big white tube down the center like a One-Way lathe. Consider calling it a "My Way" lathe, or maybe a "Mark's Way". I like that. It's a "Marks-Way".

or maybe mustard mark.

Mark Norman
05-18-2009, 9:54 PM
Yeah Richard, not a big fan of Nascar. Too much hype spoiled it for me many years ago. I wouldn't even consider a spin off on an existing product on the market such as the OneWay even if I do kinda like "Marks Way" lol

Dave, I contemplated removing the pipe a LOT but if you are familiar with C-900 water main pipe it is not an easy task to consider. The wall thickness is 1/2" and not real easy to cut even without it being filled with concrete. I agree it would look much better but I am more of a "form follows function" kind.

Ray, very insightful post, I thank you for that. It doesn't really need a name of sorts unless I intend on marketing it, but it made for some real good conversation here on the board:D

If I get my tired butt out there, cut two pieces of mdf and mix a bag and a half of concrete I could button it up this week and make wood spin this coming weekend.

This thread has been a lot of fun and I'm not sure I would have carried through with the build if it weren't for all the support here on the board. It really does add to the whole experience of building the monster;)

Alex,,,LOL LOL...make me a sandwich will ya?:p;)

Dave Schell
05-19-2009, 12:22 PM
Mark, sorry to be a pain, but I just think there is one sweet looking piece of concrete hiding in that pipe :-) Have you considered using a circular saw set at 1/2 inch depth? Or even a grinder? One long cut down both sides and it should fall right off. I'm not familiar with that type of pipe at all so I really have no idea what you are facing there - but it looks just like pvc to me. Good luck finishing up your build.