how can I tune up my rigid 14" bandsaw

[Justin Cavender]

I bought a rigid bandsaw a while back used for 150 dollars but in the 8 months i've had it I have broken 4 blades they were all vermont america brand blades 3 were 1/4" and one was 3/8" are those judt junk blades or does my saw need tuned up if so how do I do that.

[Bill Huber]

First order or go buy a good band saw book.
I like this one http://www.amazon.com/Bandsaw-Book-Lonnie-Bird/dp/1561582891

Then get a good blade the TimberWolf are very good and makes all the difference in the world as to cutting.
Give these people a call and tell them what you need.

http://www.suffolkmachinery.com/

[Paul Fitzgerald]

Another good book is Mark Duginske's "The New Complete Guide to the Band Saw" (http://www.amazon.com/New-Complete-Guide-Band-Saw/dp/1565233182). I bought it when I purchased my Delta 14" BS and it was extremely helpful.

My next blade or blades will be TimberWolf blades, though I've been pretty happy with my WoodSlicer from Highland Woodworking.

Best of luck!

Paul

[Darius Ferlas]

There are a few posts on the subject in Ridgid Forum (http://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/index.php). Some pretty extensive descriptions and suggestions.

[Mark Grotenhuis]

I agree with the previous posts... buy a bandsaw book and go step by step through calibrating your bandsaw. That being said I tried to help a friend calibrate his 14" ridgid recently. All I can say is good luck. The ridgid has more design flaws than you can shake a stick at. If you're lucky you can get it somewhat dialed in, but by no means perfect.

[Tony Bilello]

I have the 14" Bandsaw. I bought it new and followed the set-up procedures from the manual that came with it. Believe it or not, it took several hours to set up. The machine works well for me and I have had it for about 6 months. I build furniture and use it to cut and shape curved legs in oak, padouk and other hardwoods 2" thick or more.
My best guess as to your problem is to buy good blades.
I have never used Vermont America bandsaw blades, but in an emergency have used their router bits and I can tell you that their router bits are pure crap.
Rigid bandsaw blades are definitely not the latest and greatest either but they are cheap and they will work good enough for you to know if you have a bandsaw problem or a blade problem.
I personally would rather read the manufacturers service manual than a generic book. Both would probably be better.
If your problem continues, call Rigid customer service tech support, but buy a Rigid blade first.

[Myk Rian]

Does it have cool blocks? If so, make sure there is some wiggle room between them and the blade.

[Howard Acheson]

>> Does it have cool blocks? If so, make sure there is some wiggle room between them and the blade.

Why so? Cool Blocks are designed to be set up so they lightly contact the blade. I've been using Cool Blocks since the early 1990's first on my Jet 14" and now on my Grizzly 14".

[Alan Schwabacher]

I also recommend the Duginske book cited above. Another excellent choice is John White's "Care and repair of shop machines", which covers other tools as well as the bandsaw.

Inexpensive blades made with good welds from high quaity bandsaw stock are available from woodcraftbands.com .

If you are breaking lots of blades, it sounds like the blade may be distorted. You should be able to back off all the guide blocks and thrust bearings, both above and below the table, and run the blade under power at proper tension (don't cut stock this way though.) The blade should track well. If it doesn't, adjust the tracking. If you can't, you NEED that book. Check it first turning the wheels by hand, since the blade can jump off the wheels if the tracking is off by enough.

Now bring the thrust bearings in close to the blade, but not quite touching. Do the same with the guide blocks, which should support the sides of the blade just behind the teeth while the blade touches the thrust bearing. There should be no more than a sheet of paper's space between blade and guides. If the guide blocks are cool blocks, they can be closer. When you run the saw, the thrust bearing should not turn unless you are cutting. The idea is to have the blade in the right place first, then to bring the guides in close without moving the blade.

With guides set this way, you will not be bending the blade sharply, and it should not break unless the blade is defective, or some catastrophe catches or twists the blade while cutting.

[Myk Rian]

Why so? Cool Blocks are designed to be set up so they lightly contact the blade.
Exactly, and if they aren't set up properly, they can pinch the blade.

[Lance Norris]

That being said I tried to help a friend calibrate his 14" ridgid recently. All I can say is good luck. The ridgid has more design flaws than you can shake a stick at. If you're lucky you can get it somewhat dialed in, but by no means perfect.

I get tired of defending this bandsaw. I have one. It doesnt have a single DESIGN flaw. It is an exact copy of the Delta 14" bandsaw and every other clone out there(Grizzly, Jet, Wilton, Steel City...). The problems are the wheels arent balanced very well, and they use cheap tires. You can make this saw as good as any bandsaw with a little work and a few dollars. All the info you need is at the Ridgid forum. Mine cuts like a dream and it doesnt take lots of work to get it right. I dont like Vermont America blades and have used them. I also dont think much of the Ridgid blades either. I get my blades locally, but the manufacturers names that get thrown around here like Timberwolf and others, will make you fine blades if you dont have a local source.

[Mark Grotenhuis]

I get tired of defending this bandsaw. I have one. It doesnt have a single DESIGN flaw. It is an exact copy of the Delta 14" bandsaw and every other clone out there(Grizzly, Jet, Wilton, Steel City...). The problems are the wheels arent balanced very well, and they use cheap tires. You can make this saw as good as any bandsaw with a little work and a few dollars. All the info you need is at the Ridgid forum. Mine cuts like a dream and it doesnt take lots of work to get it right. I dont like Vermont America blades and have used them. I also dont think much of the Ridgid blades either. I get my blades locally, but the manufacturers names that get thrown around here like Timberwolf and others, will make you fine blades if you dont have a local source.

Needing to balance the wheels and needing to put new tires on it out of the box isn't a design flaw? I don't want to start a fight here, and you are entitled to your opinion but I'm going to have to respectfully disagree. I do agree that timberwolf blades make a big difference. When I helped my friend dial in his ridgid we got it fairly well, but I couldn't see re-sawing on it with great results. I suspect my friends model has an issue with flex in the body. I understand that this saw costs less than most others out there and at it's price point I probably shouldn't complain. To each his own.

[Rick Thom]

Justin, sounds to me like you are getting some good advice here. After you check the saw out and fix any serious problems, get a few good blades, be careful when you install them to ensure you don't kink them and create a weakness and properly tension the blade. I've found that a couple of blades is plenty to start you.. 1/4 and 1/2" should be enough... everyone has their favorites. Dull crappy blades stress the saw and motor, give you a poor cut and don't track straight. If all goes well, you can expand your blade collection to a few more sizes and different tooth counts for different applications. You might even decide you want to do some resawing of wider boards and i think you can get a 6" riser for that saw to increase capacity to 12". If you do that, you will need to buy new longer blades, so that's why I'm suggesting you don't buy more than a few as a start.