Yet another router table

[Michael O'Sullivan]

My Bench Dog portable router table seems to have a bit of an engineering flaw. There is no support for the router plate along the back (long) side between the corners. As a result, it bows down a little under the weight of a Milwaukee 5625, and I cannot figure a way to level it.

So I bought a Woodpecker router lift with a nice thick aluminum plate. Unfortunately, it is too big to fit in the opening on the B-D table.

So .... I have decided to build a new router table, or at least to adapt the B-D.

One thing I would like is a lot more surface area, so I am thinking of replacing the B-D top with a 3/4" thick 2'x4' piece of melamine laminate particle board, and I have a couple of questions before I begin cutting.

First, will the surface sag without additional support? -- there will be about 1' sticking out over each side. I was considering screwing and gluing a straight 1x2 along the back side for additional rigidity -- would that be enough?

Second, will the 3/8" or so of particle board that will remain after I rabbet out the support groove be enough to support the router lift and router? If not can I just screw and glue some wood supports beneath the thin parts?

I am trying to avoid adding so much weight that the whole thing would become top-heavy and unwieldy (the B-D itself it is sitting on a low cabinet that is mounted on casters).

[Scott Rollins]

I did exactly as you are suggesting for my first router table. 3/4" melamine rabbeted about 3/8 dp. I never had a problem with sagging. I screwed a 1x2 about 1/2" back from the front and back edges and secured with gorilla glue. Never sagged a bit. However I was using the Bosch 1617 fixed base in a aluminum plate. I don't know if it is lighter than your router set-up or not.

[keith ouellette]

I am getting ready to start cutting for my new router table. I am using mdf with a formica skin. It is going to be 39" x 48" and it will also be part of my table saw.

I am trying to get it as flat as possible. No more than 3/1000ths deviation across the entire surface.

I'm not sure if I can build at that tolerance but I know that an mdf top will sag beyond that limit over time. it would have to sag a little.

I am going to use doubled 1/2" cabinet grade plywood, 4" high around the edge. The inner layer is going to be 15/32 shorter than the outer layer so the edge will be plywood and not mdf and the mdf will sit on op of the inner layer. There will be supports running across the table every 10" made of 1/2" plywood with extra support around the router plate.

I figure if I'm going to take the time to try and make it as flat as possible I want it to stay that way.

[glenn bradley]

I think you are on the right track going ahead with a new table. I just thought I'd mention that Woodpecker sells a couple of their lifts in a version that will fit the old BD hole style, maybe they'd let you exchange(?).