Embedded Steel Plate for Router Surface?

[Steve H Graham]

I just had a nutty idea, and I wanted to see what people think.

I have a very big extension on my table saw, with a router plate in the far end. I have been all upset because I can't use magnetic accessories with the router. The table is particle board.

It just occurred to me that I could rout out an area near the router plate and sink a cheap piece of 1/8" steel into it, on top of leveling set screws. I could add four countersunk screws into the particle board to hold the steel down. The table under the plate would only lose 1/4" in thickness, so it would still be stiff. It's over an inch thick.

Good idea, or completely crazy? I'm assuming the local metal places can provide steel plate that is nice and flat.

[Chip Lindley]

Do you already have the magnetic accessories? If so, I can see your *want-to*! But IF NOT, with all the routing and drilling needed to add a steel plate, why not just drill your table for threaded inserts and use traditional hold-down clamps/featherboards, etc.

I have a primordial fear (perhaps unfounded, but a FEAR nevertheless) than some magnetic hold-down will SLIP under heavy pressure, at a crucial point and RUIN my work! With hold-downs that screw-in, I sleep much better at night!

[Steve H Graham]

Well, I like magnetic featherboards for the table saw and bandsaw, so it would be nice to use them for the router, too.

[Chris Tsutsui]

If you use a 1/8" thick steel plate, I'm not sure if the magnetic bond will be strong enough than if you had a cast iron table.

[Steve H Graham]

I have some 1/8" angle iron, so I can find out.

[glenn bradley]

The flatness of the non-machined steel surface is what I would wonder about.

[Jim Mattheiss]

I don't think there should be any worry about magnetic featherboard sticking ot 1/8 inch steel.

I have a magnetic feather board and it sticks JUST FINE to the stamped steel wing of my Jet Contractor saw. It even sticks when 1 magnet is on one of the "embossings" and the other isn't. I don't think that the wings on my saw are 1/8".

I do understand Chip's primordial concern about it slipping in use but it hasn't been a problem for me yet.

I'd get the magswitch universal "fingers on both sides" but I have other shop things on the list ahead of it right now. Like a good dado blade.

Cheers

Jim

[Jeff Willard]

Lee Valley sells a steel router table top. IIRC it is 24" in width, and crowned toward the center, to compensate for sag due to the weight of the router. A frame could be constructed to hold the top and fit between the fence rails.

[keith ouellette]

I had a similar idea. I have the table from a old small craftsman table saw and was wondering about using it for a router plate.

I think it would make a good one. Maybe you can look for a small surplus saw that doesn't work anymore or a cheap $50 one. it would be flatter than a stock steel square and would make the magnet hold strong.

I don't know what you would do about the concentric rings for the different size bits though.

[Steve H Graham]

I wasn't planning to have the router go through it. I have an aluminum router plate. No ring change needed.

The obvious problem with the idea is that I wouldn't be able to use magnetic items close to the bit, but people with T-tracks have the same issue.