Scrapers - am I missing something?

[Prashun Patel]

I've done a good amount of research on using card scrapers, and think I have a good handle on the proper way to flatten, hone, draw and turn the burr properly.

1/2 out of laziness, 1/2 out of curiosity, I've tried shortcutting the process by just filing down the edge 3,4 passes with a mill file, then drawing a (get this) screwdriver at 5-15degrees on the edge (3,4 passes). I'm basically pushing and turning the burr in a single step I guess. I can feel it with by fingers.

I gotta say it works! It takes all of 1 minute to freshen an edge and it pulls wonderful shavings. So, the question is, what am I missing by not finely polishing and sharpening the edge and then drawing the burr parallel to the face before turning it. ? All the videos I see involve a complicated array of oils, sharpening stones, and burnishers.

BTW, I really see why people love using scrapers. It's so elegant and simple vs sandpaper.

[Mark Roderick]

Nothing wrong with the way you're doing it. The only thing is that if you don't hone the flat face and the edge on fine sandpaper or a fine stone, the little sharp edge you're cutting with is going to be pretty serrated, and therefore won't leave as fine a surface on the wood.

[Rob Luter]

You've cracked the code.

More often than not, that's all that is needed. A screwdriver makes a perfectly functional burnisher (While not as cool and gloatworthy as my vintage Buck Brothers Burnisher found for almost free at the flea market ;)) Like this one: http://blog.woodworking-magazine.com/blog/It+Looks+More+Like+A+Pigsticker+Than+A+Burnisher.a spx

Sometimes I'll go full tilt and dress the edge perfectly square, hone everything extra smooth, and gently draw a burr out from the edge before turning it. Does it perform better? A little to a lot depending on the wood. The finish is smoother when you do that.

[Richard Magbanua]

I use a screwdriver usually as well. However, I find I need to square it up occasionally because the finish gets a little rough sometimes.

When you get a chance try this. I was cutting glass the other day for a frame and I remembered someone on here saying some woodworkers use glass to scrape. I cut a smaller square from the scraps I had and tried it. It works really well! Curly shavings right off the bat. The downsides probably are that you can cut yourself if you're not careful and the corners can leave marks in the wood. I suppose if you're good you can cut glass so the corners are chamfered a bit. I'll probably not be using glass to scrape but I thought it was a pretty interesting experiment.

[Michael Sobik]

That's exactly how I do mine. File, burnish, get back to work. I sharpened mine on a stone one time just to check it out. The edge does last slightly longer, but it takes a lot more time. In the shop it's much more practical to just file and burnish.

[Prashun Patel]

I tried using glass, but had trouble turning the burr on it ;)

I should say that I haven't used my scraper for finishing yet; I just use it to remove the planer marks and to true up glue lines on panels (look at me talking like I've done this a million times. I've done it twice!) I usually hit my piece with 220gt etc at the end just out of habit. Maybe that's why I don't notice how 'rough' my scraper edge might be...

[Bill Houghton]

I suppose if you're good you can cut glass so the corners are chamfered a bit.

I believe some of the harder sandpapers can sand glass - you could knock off the corners that way.

[Derek Cohen]

If you are using a screwdriver as a burnisher, then ...

(1) You are likely using soft steel in the scraper (and this will not hold an edge long)

(2) You will likely transfer the nicks from the soft screwdriver shaft to the steel edge, and this then to the wooden surface.

If you are not smoothing the steels edge, then you are essentially creating the equivalent of a jack plane, perhaps even a scrub plane, definitely not a smoother. A rougher edge is fine for quick removal of waste. I do it too. But as a smoother I finish the steel to 8000 grit.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[David Keller NC]

"So, the question is, what am I missing by not finely polishing and sharpening the edge and then drawing the burr parallel to the face before turning it. ?"

Shawn - One observation here is that the videos and blog entries are designed for the average woodworker, with average metal working skills, to get a 100% guaranteed result. Some of those steps are not necessary if you've a bit more skill.

In particular, many WWs don't know how to draw file. While I prefer the much finer file sold by Glenn Drake for the purpose, using any file in the draw-file mode will leave behind a surface that's exceptionally smooth, no stoning required. The trick, of course, is holding the file absolutely square to the edge that you're draw-filing. Based on the results that you noted, I'd say you're there. :D

[george wilson]

You CANNOT get a straight edge on broken glass!!! On a curved surface,like a chair leg,where only 1 point of the glass is in contact with the wood,perhaps. I recommend discarding that whole myth.

[Mark Singer]

The extra steps produce a better edge and thus a better surface on the wood. Try the complete method of jointing, stoning with a 1000 grit stone , drawing the burr first and then rolling it a bit. An old dull plane will produce shavings.... not the same as the lacey ones I like to see!

[Prashun Patel]

Um, after about 7 years, I am still very much a novice, so I have no illusions there.

Truth be told, it's not the polishing and honing that stymies me - it's the drawing of the burr by holding the scraper flat and burnishing parallel to the face. I've only been able to pull/roll a noticeable burr by doing it perpendicular to the face.

I'll definitely take a few more seconds to polish the edge - and will invest in a harder burnisher going forward.

I wish there was something I could do with all those shavings. They're so darn beautiful and delicate, seems like a waste to chuck em!!!

[Tom Hargrove]

I must respectfully disagree with some of the things that George mentioned, but I agree with other things. I frequently work with stained glass, and I am able to get straight lines when I "cut" glass. A glass cutter does not actually cut the glass, it just scores a line for the glass to follow when it breaks. (Glass saws actually cut the glass.) I can score straight lines or curved lines, and the glass usually breaks where I want it to.

A fresh edge on a piece of glass can be used as a scraper for wood, and it works quite well for a short while. However, because the crystal structure of glass is subject to fracturing when used as a scraper, the sharp edge goes away quickly. The small pieces that crumble from the edge can become embedded in the surfact of the wood, like the grains of sand did when sandpaper was made from sand. This can lead to finishing frustrations. If you run your fingers over the surface of wood that has been scraped with glass, the small crystals can become embedded in your finger. DAMHIKT.

Even worse, glass is prone to breakage when you least expect it. If you are pressing on a piece of glass when it breaks, as you would if you are using it as a scraper, it can lacerate your finger. The breakage can lead to nasty cuts that allow lots of blood to leak from your fingers and/or thumbs. The blood stains the wood you have been working on, so you have to sand the freshly scraped surface to remove the stains. DAMHIKT. Did you know that a freshly cut edge on a piece of glass will cut through leather gloves? Again, DAMHIKT.

Card scrapers work much better, and longer, than glass does, even if poorly prepared. In this, I strongly agree with George.

[Derek Cohen]

Truth be told, it's not the polishing and honing that stymies me - it's the drawing of the burr by holding the scraper flat and burnishing parallel to the face.

Shaun

Here is a link to an tutorial on my website:

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/WoodworkTechniques/PreparingACabinetScraper.html

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Berl Mendenhall]

I use three different methods for sharpening scrapers. Some I sharpen flat and square then draw burr on both edges. Some I sharpen like a chisel and draw a burr on the sharp edge. Some I sharpen flat but don't draw a burr at all. The first method I use on .025 scraper stock. The second and third method I use Exacto Razor Saw blades (it's .010). This stuff will get a burr that's razor sharp. With violin making there aren't many flat surfaces and these scrapers cut easy and bend easy. They get so sharp you have to use a light touch. Scrapers are the simplest tools I have and are my favorite tools to use. Scraping is faster than sanding and leaves a way better surface.

I sharpen by filing and then I use a fine diamond credit card size stone. Some I burnish smooth some I use a dark colored straight razor stone with mineral oil. It depends on where I'm using the scraper as to how anal I get with sharpening. If it's on the inside of a fiddle where it's more sculpting than finishing I use it right off the diamond stone and turn a big burr on it. I want it to cut almost like a scrub plane. Learning to sharpen and use scrapers can be really frustrating in the beginning but well worth the effort to learn.
Berl