Bowl finish for some begginers..

[David Harmon]

Hey all you jokers! I thought I would share a great finish with some of those pondering a good finish for there projects (mainly bowls). 1 coat of deft semi gloss clear coat ( as a sanding sealer). Then 2 or 3 coats of water lox. This is an excellent finish!

I was also wondering if anyone in the turners forum has a home made quick building and durable friction pollish. That would be great!

[Jon McCoy]

A simple friction polish is equal parts film finish, solvent, and boiled linseed oil. You can add a bit of wax, but it won't stay in solution -- you'll have to agitate it a lot before each use.

I like shellac, alcohol, and BLO. I've also used Deft, lacquer thinner, and BLO. None of them stand up to heavy handling.

-jon-

[Clarence Sears]

It might not be terribly fashonable, but I suggest a simple walnut or mineral oil finish (think Mike Mahoney or Richard Raffan.) Both are food-safe and won't break off and get mixed with whatever people are eating.:eek:

Realize that french polish, shellac, waterlux (et al.) and, for that matter, waxes are all surface or "film" finishes that eventually break up and/or wear away. Better no finish (to allow the bowl to age naturally and acquire a rich patina) or one that will soak in and become part of the wood (mineral oil) or harden/polymerize (walnut oil.)

To paraphrase Raffan, a simple, classic design will be appreciated long after the finish and fine grain disappear.

My two cents...

[Jim Becker]

My favorite finish for turning is simply Minwax Antique Oil finish (which is a varnish) applied by hand while the piece is still on the lathe and then "pushed" with friction. 6-12 coats of this over a relatively short period of time, a week of dry-time and then buffing with the Beall system to complete is my typical regimen. I do the same with Waterlox. When using an oil finish, I don't want to seal the wood first...I want that first coat to penetrate and leverage the oil for increased figure presence.

[charlie knighton]

thanks David

[Kaptan J.W. Meek]

I've used the friction polish on some pens, but it didn't stand up too well.. Of course I use oil on things like cutting boards and such, and I've been experimenting with "wipe on" poly.. But all in all? I'm a lacquer and polyurethane kinda guy. I can shoot it from my automotive spray gun, but I find myself using the rattle can more and more these days.

[Bernie Weishapl]

I agree with Jim. Unless it is small stuff I may use lacquer or sealers but on the big stuff such as NE's, HF's, dinner plates, platters and bowls I would not use a sealer especially lacquer. I use Waterlox Satin, Antique Oil or General Finishes seal-a cell followed by arm-r-seal. I want my oil to soak as deeply in the wood as possible. I either friction it in on the lathe but 90% of the time I soak it off the lathe till it won't take anymore. I wipe it down, let it dry 24 hrs and then do it again up to 3 times. All finishes today are food safe if cured at least 72 hrs. minimum. I have a bunch of salad bowl sets out there with Waterlox or General Finishes on them because they will stand up to hot liquids, water, alcohol, food stains, etc. if allowed to dry at least a month for maximum hardness.

Jon do you mix your own sort of friction polish? All friction polishes I have ever used don't have tung or BLO in them.

[Jon McCoy]

Jon do you mix your own sort of friction polish? All friction polishes I have ever used don't have tung or BLO in them.
I tried several recipes, comparing them to the more expensive storebought friction finishes. BLO slows the solvent evaporation, but isn't always needed. And as echoed above, I found all of these finishes only appropriate for shelf art.

After playing with lots of different finishes, I now use either fresh beeswax (smells marvelous) or watco natural on my work. I've made my own danish oil from equal parts of BLO, turpentine, and varnish, but found it no cheaper than buying watco at the hardware store.

For food bowls, I rub in mineral oil or walnut oil from the hippy food store. Neither fully cures, but both are easy enough to reapply at the kitchen sink after handwashing.

-jon-

[Mike Kratky]

Give "Salad Bowl Finish" by General Finishes a try, you'll find as I have it's the
closes thing to simple but perfect finish that's out there.