Skewed rabbeting block plane angle

[James G. Jones]

Hi Creekers,

I am in the process of designing a shopmade skewed rabbeting block plane. Think of it like an infill Stanley 140 with rabbeting capability on both sides, or like the LN rabbet block plane with a skewed blade. I don't own a skewed block plane, so I'm looking for some advice. First, what angle of skew would be best? I am right handed so I assume it should skew so that the most forward point is to the left, correct? Finally, low angle or standard? I would tend to think that the low angle would be best, given that it will occasionally be planing end or cross grain.

Thanks in advance,

James

[Pedro Reyes]

It will be interesting to see your design.

For the skew angle I would stay within something < 20 degrees (LN has 18).

Bed angle: skewing already decreases the cutting angle, so I guess up to you, LN has 12, Stanley had 20.

If you are right handed then the blade should have the skew to the same side as the original 289, or the original 140 for that matter.

Just a note, I have the LN, it is a very nice plane but when I remove the side to use it as a rabbet plane, I feel it becomes weak and flexes if not used correctly. So just consider this when designing.

Have fun.

/p

[Jim Koepke]

I am in the process of designing a shop made skewed rabbeting block plane. Think of it like an infill Stanley 140 with rabbeting capability on both sides, or like the LN rabbet block plane with a skewed blade.

Have you taken a look at the Stanley #80 and #90 skew rabbet planes?

Measuring my skews in the shop, the two Stanley's have a 70° skew. The two Ohio tool company planes have a 65° skew. All have the leading edge of the blade to the right. The bedding angles are around 45° on three of them and low angle on the 140. The bedding angles were not measured.

I think the skewing for a right hander would be this way so the tear out running across grain would be minimal when going past the edge. If it was leading on the left side, the top of the board may be splintered off and continue to do so throughout the cut. With the lead on the right, it cuts through the edge at the "inside" of the rabbet so the edge is being supported by the wood on the outside of the cut causing less splintering.

jim

[James G. Jones]

Thanks for all the input.

Jim, the 80 and 90 were where the thought started. I have switched the skew angle. It makes sense to have the leading edge of the iron score the edge of the wood to prevent tearout.

Pedro, how thick is the sole on your LN? I am going with 1/4" O1 - mostly because that's what I have on hand.

Here is the preliminary design so far. I think I'm going to scratch the infill idea and go with all metal construction. As I see it right now, my big design hurdles are the rear handle / lever cap and making sure that the bed behind the mouth doesn't flex. I still haven't decided on rivets or dovetails for the side to sole connection. Any ideas?

James

[Pedro Reyes]

I think the skewing for a right hander would be this way so the tear out running across grain would be minimal when going past the edge. If it was leading on the left side, the top of the board may be splintered off and continue to do so throughout the cut. With the lead on the right, it cuts through the edge at the "inside" of the rabbet so the edge is being supported by the wood on the outside of the cut causing less splintering.

jim

Jim,

one of the main reasons for the skew that way is because it pulls the plane towards the shoulder of the rabbet, the opposite skew would want to push the plane out for a right handed push (right to left as seen from the front of the bench).


James,

Just measured it and it is just shy of 3/16", so what you have is hefty enough. Keep in mind that when I say that I feel like it flexes it is not the sole, but rather the two sections of the sole stop being on the same plane. This flexing is on the sides, not the sole itself.

Nice dwg. Keep us posted.

/p

[Eric Brown]

As was mentioned the skew will pull the plane to one side. That is why many have a fence. Another use/advantage of the skew is if you use the plane on it's side with a bench hook for shooting. If right handed a skew to the left will push your board in and down into the hook. (You need a side plate on the right side for this to work). Skews are primarily used on board edges. If planing the middle of a board just use a normal or low angle plane held at an angle to your stroke.

Eric