problem ripping board?

[keith ouellette]

My fence is parallel ( within 2/1000) of the miter slot. My blade is within 2/1000ths of the same miter slot.

I just tried to rip some 3/4 maple with a jointed edge. it is reclaimed wood from a bead frame . 6"x 5ft long boards. I made 3 different attempts and all three times I could not keep the board from moving away from the fence as I passed it by the blade. It veered away far enough to create a 1/4" taper.

I have ripped plenty of boards and even ones without a straight edge have come out better than this.

what could be going wrong.

[Eric Gustafson]

Perhaps the wood has some internal stress. Is it bowing after the cut?

[Robert Parrish]

You could be releasing some hidden stresses in the wood. Are you using a splitter and feather boards?

[Danny Thompson]

Is there possibly a cup or twist in the face?

[Tim Malyszko]

I saw the same thing with Poplar recently - 1/8". The same wood has been sitting in my basement now for a month and the bow has gotten substantially worse (I'm talking a 1.5" bow over the full 5' length), making me thing I definately released some stress in the wood. Like others have said, it sounds like the same thing with the wood you are ripping.

[Faust M. Ruggiero]

Keith,
Those released stresses that are causing your board to move as you rip it are the reason I rough rip on a band saw. The first cut in some boards and probably every rip cut on the same board will cause it to warp further. I've seen many boards that rendered themselves useless for the reasons you are describing.
Faust Ruggiero

[Myk Rian]

What blade are you using?

[keith ouellette]

What blade are you using?

It is a combination blade, I forget the brand.

This wood may be very old. It has been kept dry and still has its original finish on it. That might be contributing to the stress it has built up.

I've never seen anything like this though.

could it be pulling against the riving knife some how?

The one that came with my jet is very long and goes from the blade to out past the back of the saw.

[Jack Ellis]

I've had problems with ash on a bandsaw but usually no problems on the TS.

You should consider adding a featherboard of some kind to help keep the board pressed against the fence until it just meets the blade. John Thompson has a very clever and somewhat unusual setup that I've seen on several forums but a more typical featherboard would also work. Although I need to make a better one than I have, a push shoe that catches the rear edge of the board and allows you to put downward pressure forward of the rear edge is also handy.

I'm partial to a push shoe or something like a Gripper rather than push sticks.

[John Thompson]

It is most like stress release as mentioned several times. I suspect the wood has case hardened also if it is old as you suggested. If that is the case.. not much cure for what ails you.

Sarge..

[Jim Barstow]

Happened to me last week on a sawstop with a riving knife. I was cutting 12/4 cherry that was jointed on 2 sides. The saw bogged down so I had to make multiple cuts of increasing depths. The blade is an almost new freud combination and the saw is the 5 hp version.

I got out the dial gauge and found the fence and blade almost perfectly aligned.

The mystery was solved a short time later when I saw the resulting wood bowed more than 1/8". Fortunately, I left enough extra to re-mill them.

[Howard Acheson]

What kind of shape is the blade in? What you describe is frequently assoicated with a blade the needs sharpening.

[David Christopher]

What kind of shape is the blade in? What you describe is frequently assoicated with a blade the needs sharpening.

Im going to have to agree with Howard...Ive seen it to many times..try a new blade and I bet your trouble will go away