Need "shop-made" mobile base ideas for cabinet saw!

[Jason White]

I just ordered a new cabinet saw and need some ideas for a mobile base.

Buying one isn't really an option because I need to get the top of the table up to about 40" (yes, I'm really tall). I'd like to make something out of wood with double-locking casters.

Suggestions? Pictures are a big help.

Jason

[Thomas Williams]

Not sure this is what you are wanting, but I put my table saw on the Woodcraft mobile base, the one where you add plywood to the metal corners/wheels. My saw top is a little over 38" off the floor.

[Charles Seehuetter Panama City]

Jason

I don't have a shop built base on my saw but have built them for other tools in the shop and it's pretty easy to do with either 2X2 or 2X4 frames or torsion boxes depending on how high your casters are. Here is a couple of pics of some on my tools from my album

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/picture.php?albumid=40&pictureid=377

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/picture.php?albumid=40&pictureid=357

Not very good pictures but may give you an idea.

Chuck

[ken gibbs]

Jason,

I bought a universal base from Woodcraft last weekend for $68.00. This base uses your 3/4' plywood and provides two step-on front casters and two rear casters. I am adding a right side table to this used Unisaw so I also purchased two casters from Northern Tools to support the table legs. I will mount the Unisaw first so I can index the height dimensions for the table saw extension side table so the whole thing will roll together. After I add a dust port attcahment to the lower right side of the Unisaw, I will used the under table space to build in a cabinet for blades, fence storage, jigs, etc. I need to roll this cabinet saw out of the way to use my garage space so it must be portable.

[Mike Wilkins]

Check out the Wood Magazine site. They have plans for shop fixtures, one of which is a shop-built mobile base. I had one several years ago under a Jet 6" jointer, which worked fine.

[Jason White]

Thanks, but that won't get the saw nearly high enough for me.

I need the table top to be at 40 inches.

Jason


Jason,

I bought a universal base from Woodcraft last weekend for $68.00. This base uses your 3/4' plywood and provides two step-on front casters and two rear casters. I am adding a right side table to this used Unisaw so I also purchased two casters from Northern Tools to support the table legs. I will mount the Unisaw first so I can index the height dimensions for the table saw extension side table so the whole thing will roll together. After I add a dust port attcahment to the lower right side of the Unisaw, I will used the under table space to build in a cabinet for blades, fence storage, jigs, etc. I need to roll this cabinet saw out of the way to use my garage space so it must be portable.

[Jason White]

BUMP! :D

The table height of my saw is 34", but I want to make it 40" without the saw becoming too tippy.

Any suggestions?

Jason

[Gary Radice]

4 inch double locking casters plus two inches of plywood and there you are. Make the plywood larger than the base of your saw, though. You want the caster wheels to still be outside the borders of your saw cabinet when they swivel in.

[Todd Pretty]

Jason

I don't have a shop built base on my saw but have built them for other tools in the shop and it's pretty easy to do with either 2X2 or 2X4 frames or torsion boxes depending on how high your casters are. Here is a couple of pics of some on my tools from my album

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/picture.php?albumid=40&pictureid=377

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/picture.php?albumid=40&pictureid=357

Not very good pictures but may give you an idea.

Chuck



How stable is your jointer on that dolly? My only concern with making my own mobile base for the jointer and planer is having it too tippy.

[keith ouellette]

I made mine with some 2x6 laid on face put together with mortice and tenon joints and a plywood skin. it has home made leveling legs that would allow you to raise it to the height you need. here is the link if you want to see it.



http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?p=1068913#poststop

[Charles Seehuetter Panama City]

How stable is your jointer on that dolly? My only concern with making my own mobile base for the jointer and planer is having it too tippy.

Todd, The jointer doesn't move at all. The dolly is larger than the jointer base and with 4 locking casters it's very stable. It's an old Delta/Rockwell 37-315 8" that I rebuilt. Quite heavy and solid.

Chuck

[Jason White]

That's got me thinking...

I'm also planning to build a "traditional" workbench using glued up hardwood for beefy legs and stretchers with M&T joints and benchbolts.

I'm thinking I can build a really beefy base for the cabinet saw using some of the same features. Maybe some 4x4 posts with outriggers for the wheels. This thing will look like a timber frame when I'm done!:D

Now, if I could only figure out how to use Sketchup.....:rolleyes:


I made mine with some 2x6 laid on face put together with mortice and tenon joints and a plywood skin. it has home made leveling legs that would allow you to raise it to the height you need. here is the link if you want to see it.



http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?p=1068913#poststop

[Derek Hansen]

Jason, I raised up my saw 6" with a homemade base since I'm tall. I first made a square panel by edge-joining 2x6s with pocket screws, leaving about 3" clearance around the saw base. Then I added some 2x4 cross members on the bottom and screwed in through the 2x6s. Added some great lakes casters and I was done. Once I installed my extension table, I screwed in 2x4s onto the top of the base at the front and back, added some bracing, and put some dinky swivel castes on the end since it doesn't carry much weight. I think I may have gone a little overkill, but the thing is rock-solid.

Pics attached - sorry for the mess.

[Jason White]

Now THAT'S what I'm talkin' about!!!!!

Another 6 inches is exactly what I need. Thanks a bunch.

Jason


Jason, I raised up my saw 6" with a homemade base since I'm tall. I first made a square panel by edge-joining 2x6s with pocket screws, leaving about 3" clearance around the saw base. Then I added some 2x4 cross members on the bottom and screwed in through the 2x6s. Added some great lakes casters and I was done. Once I installed my extension table, I screwed in 2x4s onto the top of the base at the front and back, added some bracing, and put some dinky swivel castes on the end since it doesn't carry much weight. I think I may have gone a little overkill, but the thing is rock-solid.

Pics attached - sorry for the mess.

[Jason White]

Do you find you have enough room for your toes when using the saw?

Jason


Jason, I raised up my saw 6" with a homemade base since I'm tall. I first made a square panel by edge-joining 2x6s with pocket screws, leaving about 3" clearance around the saw base. Then I added some 2x4 cross members on the bottom and screwed in through the 2x6s. Added some great lakes casters and I was done. Once I installed my extension table, I screwed in 2x4s onto the top of the base at the front and back, added some bracing, and put some dinky swivel castes on the end since it doesn't carry much weight. I think I may have gone a little overkill, but the thing is rock-solid.

Pics attached - sorry for the mess.

[Derek Hansen]

Do you find you have enough room for your toes when using the saw?

Jason

It's never been an issue for me - the table and front rail overhang far enough to give my feet clearance.

[Jim O'Dell]

Jason, you could also build a torsion box frame the full size of the cab saw and extension, use the Great Lakes or Zambus casters so that when you aren't mobile, the saw is sitting solidly on the floor. Just make the torsion box the right height to accommodate the casters and be at the 6" height.
I'm going to need to add about 2 1/2" to my saw when I get it, and I'm thinking about using some 1/4" thick angle iron with either some screw down levelers to make solid contact with the floor, or casters that screw down to raise the saw up for moving. I'll make the base the full size of the cab saw and extension so that 4 wheels will do the mobility thing. Thinking once I get it sized and bolted together, I can then weld it so it will really be stout and secure. This will also have an ledge that I can build in some type of cabinet under the extension, or shelves to store TS accessories. Jim.

[Jason White]

Double-locking casters are plenty solid for me. Never had a problem.

Jason


Jason, you could also build a torsion box frame the full size of the cab saw and extension, use the Great Lakes or Zambus casters so that when you aren't mobile, the saw is sitting solidly on the floor. Just make the torsion box the right height to accommodate the casters and be at the 6" height.
I'm going to need to add about 2 1/2" to my saw when I get it, and I'm thinking about using some 1/4" thick angle iron with either some screw down levelers to make solid contact with the floor, or casters that screw down to raise the saw up for moving. I'll make the base the full size of the cab saw and extension so that 4 wheels will do the mobility thing. Thinking once I get it sized and bolted together, I can then weld it so it will really be stout and secure. This will also have an ledge that I can build in some type of cabinet under the extension, or shelves to store TS accessories. Jim.