Face frame?

[Blake Barr]

I have finished the carcass for my first cabinet project. I need to hide the plywood ends of the carcass and I had intended on a face frame but had never really put on paper how I was going to make the face frame. So when I went to plan out the FF it turns out it's a little more involved than I had anticipated.

I would like the doors to sit on top of the frame and cover 95% of the FF. It is sort of a euro design but would like a little FF to show on top and bottom. The question is I suppose is when taking into account the types of hinges available how thin can I (or how thin do I have to) make the FF and how much overhang can I have maximum to use a hinge that allows the doors to cover most of the face of the cabinet? If someone could point me a good source for FF info and a link to a website with a full array of hinges that would be nice too

[Chris Harry]

Blum is a good source for the hinge info, I think their PDF catalog has all sorts of measurements for overhang, etc.

If you have control over the size of the doors and the size of the face frame, it probably wouldnt matter what size the frame is. Build the carcass, then size the outer dimensions of the face frame to the carcass. Then take into account the hinge requirements (i.e. should you rip down the face frame, etc).

Blum makes some surface mounted hinges as well, I have them on my kitchen doors (which work about how you want........a euro design that covers a lot of the face frame when they are closed). The only measurement required for those hinges is how far back the bracket goes on the face frame, and it isnt much at all. I forget the model # of my hinges, but they are also in the Blum catalog.

[Lee Schierer]

Another way to hide the plywood ends would be to use the press on edge trim strips. The hot glue type applied with an iron work quite well and are available in s few different wood types.

[Blake Barr]

Another way to hide the plywood ends would be to use the press on edge trim strips. The hot glue type applied with an iron work quite well and are available in s few different wood types.

I've thought about that.... I still haven't decided...

I just don't want to build a FF and end up not being able to find a hinge that matches what I managed to dream up...

[David DeCristoforo]

You need to plan it out carefully. Choose the hardware first. Then look at the specs for the hardware to determine the overlays and reveals you want. Then size your face frame pieces to suit. Hardware vendors usually publish spec sheets on their web sites in PDF format so you can see exactly what is needed.

[keith ouellette]

If you want to put on a face frame then why are you using a euro style hinge?
It would be easier to use a face frame mounted hinge.

If by "how thin can I make the face frame?" you mean how thick or thin the stock can be that you make the face frame out of then I would not go any thinner than 3/4". even if you don't attach the hinge to the face frame you will need to attach the frame to the carcass and the best way to do that would be a biscuit joiner.

If by "how thin" you mean how wide... I used a 1 1/4" wide face frame and attached a half overlay face frame mounted hinge. In your case I guess you would want a full over lay hinge and then make your doors a little narrow.

Remember when you have two cabinets next to each other the amount of the face frame that shows will be twice as wide. Half belonging to each cabinet.

I would show you pictures of mine but I can't up load picture for some reason.

[Blake Barr]

You need to plan it out carefully. Choose the hardware first. Then look at the specs for the hardware to determine the overlays and reveals you want. Then size your face frame pieces to suit. Hardware vendors usually publish spec sheets on their web sites in PDF format so you can see exactly what is needed.


If you want to put on a face frame then why are you using a euro style hinge?
It would be easier to use a face frame mounted hinge.

If by "how thin can I make the face frame?" you mean how thick or thin the stock can be that you make the face frame out of then I would not go any thinner than 3/4". even if you don't attach the hinge to the face frame you will need to attach the frame to the carcass and the best way to do that would be a biscuit joiner.

If by "how thin" you mean how wide... I used a 1 1/4" wide face frame and attached a half overlay face frame mounted hinge. In your case I guess you would want a full over lay hinge and then make your doors a little narrow.

Remember when you have two cabinets next to each other the amount of the face frame that shows will be twice as wide. Half belonging to each cabinet.

I would show you pictures of mine but I can't up load picture for some reason.

The exactly the info I was looking for. Then guys, I will start with the intent, find hardware and plan to suit the hinges. I may abandon the full overlay doors and have them inset into the frame...

[Jim Kountz]

If you want to put on a face frame then why are you using a euro style hinge?


So you can still conceal the hinge would be my guess.

[Paul Fitzgerald]

I'm just about to make new doors for my face frame cabinets and my wife and I decided we wanted full overlay doors. Since I was limited by my existing 2" face frames, I went with the only option I could find... the Blum Compact 33 Hinges with Face Mount mounting plates.

Blum offers a number of euro style hinges for use with face frames. So if you decide to put face frames on your cabinets, you'll be covered.

Paul

[Blake Barr]

If you want to put on a face frame then why are you using a euro style hinge?


Haha, the answer to that is I don't know what I am doing... It's my first "real" project that isn't shop furniture or a purely functional MDF box....