My head is spinning over router table and fence choices.

[Herbert Mulqueen]

Background: Wife says you need a hobby other than walking dogs and sitting on the couch playing on the internet. Never done any home wood working. A complete novice in home woodworking.

Research on the internet only. No close stores, live 60 miles to a mall.

So I buy a Micro-Fence router system with most of the bells and whistles sight unseen except for the videos. www.microfence.com It came last week and I have yet to get the Bosch PR-20 1 hp 1/4 inch router for the "3 Axis Mill". I kinda understand the Micro-fence concepts. MF was a quick and easy decision. My intention is to use 1/4 router and learn about router bit types and dust control.


Planning for a router table system, in two months. This is where the confusion comes to play. SMC has been wonderful and a great source of information. But a system overload to my poor addled brain, so much information to process.

Researched the following: aluminum, MDF and phenolic table tops.Fences from Woodpecker new super fence, Incra, Jessem, Jointech and CMT.

What I am saying for a novice just getting into home woodworking is there a
major difference between these systems? Is one system worth two to three times more than a simple system. Is steel top vs alum vs phenolic vs mdf worth the difference to a novice.

For example does selecting a table top from one manufacturer, a fence from another and a stand from another make sense?

Or?

Does just getting something like a Kreg system delivered for under $500 us dollars give the best bang for the dollar? Find out what is needed and eventually move up if that system is lacking.

Are we all having a philosophy discussion on how many angels sit on the head of a pin. Or do the perceived marketing benefits justify the cost to a novice?

I seen videos on the Incra router system, very sexy. However I have read that it is not as heavy or durable as the Jessem or woodpecker Super Fence. If Incra backs up their product and the fence is repeatable does it make a real difference?

Assuming space is not a problem is a bigger table any real value?

Assuming a future jig system such a Akema is planned, is a simple fence the way to go? Or is the Incra very flexible fence still worthwhile?

The Incra system says it does everything and jump small buildings. But if I ever eventually build a group of drawers I really go crazy with out a jig type machine like the Akeda 3000.

Lets call the above a " Router questions Part 1"

If these questions that have been asked many times before, please accept my apologies.


Thanks for your help.

Regards,

Herb Mulqueen jr.

Background on me. Owned a truss plant for 25 plus years. Built a lot of heavy timber products along with the 2x4's trusses. Had equipment from multi-gang component saws to a radial arm drill that weighed 38,500 pounds with #8 morse taper.

Looking forward to using the Micro-Fence 1/4 inch 3 axis router mill, it looks like fun.

[Brad Wood]

wow, a lot to digest there.

I think you will get a variety of replies regarding the type of material the top is made from. Bottom line is you want something that is stable and flat... and will hold up to the test of time.

I went with the Jessem system... for the top (which is phenolic), the fence, and the router lift. I only have my cheap Ryobi router and table to compare, so it is a significant improvement.
I didn't put as much research into the decision as you have so far. I was looking for something that seemed to be at the very least a competitive product and a somewhat reasonable price.

I'm satisfied with the decision and have no regrets.

[Joe Scharle]

A router table, even a router alone is an adjunct to a wood shop of wood cutting tools. And a 1/4" router is in the laminate trimmer class. Having said all that, and recognizing that you've said you have no woodworking experience, I recommend looking into a completely standalone woodworking hobby like scroll sawing to get you started.

[Rick Potter]

Herb,

There are a lot of answers out there, and they are all interesting. Problem is, you can spend a lot of time and money trying various setups before you find the one which is right for you. First decide what type stuff you want to build, is it big, little, or? Some guys love making jewelry boxes, and never need any large capacity. Some just want to make large cabinets and furniture.

First, I would investigate whether there are any woodworkers, or clubs near you. You will find people are willing to show you what they have and how it works for them.

You can make a simple router table for next to nothing by using a scrap of melamine or a formica sink cut out, drill some holes in it and screw a router to the bottom. A simple straight stick and clamps will make a rudimentary fence.

My vote for a nice all around router table that will do most of what you will ever want to do is the RT1000 (google it), from Canada. I recently got mine (about $400, shipped) and it is well made, and has a nice fence and dust collector setup. They will ship the router plate drilled for whatever router you decide on. I have a Rockler table, that I found really cheap used (another route), and the RT1000 is much more stable and better built.

Now you can agonize over what router and whether you want a lift or not.

Rick Potter

[keith ouellette]

I have a couple of questions? are you planning on having more than one router?

If not then I would get a bigger router with a half inch collet. I'm a novice but the best time I had in my shop so far was making raised panel doors. You will want at least a 2 1/2 hp for that and definitely a 1/2" collet.

What other tool/machines do you have now?

If you already have the full compliment of machines and are just getting to the router table then I would say your first one should be the one you build. I doubt a home built table and fence will be perfect but it is a great learning tool. If you don't have any other machines then I would start with the table saw before you get the router.

[Chris Tsutsui]

You know if you're shopping for high end router tables, then maybe you could even look for a used or budget shaper?

Or if you're a beginner like me, you will get by ok hand routing things or using a bench top inexpensive router table.

If you can justify getting a nice router table, I like the Jessem MastRLift w/ PC7518, Rockler laminated top and Rockler fence. You can then build a cabinet base so it can be customized for your use and you'll save a bunch of money here.

As an upgrade to what I have, I hear people liking cast iron table tops. These stay dead flat and the best part is they are heavy which is good to damp vibrations.

[Matt Benton]

Any thoughts yet on specifically what you might want to build?

[Herbert Mulqueen]

I expect have a least three routers.

A ...1 hp for the Micro-Fence 3 axis mill and inlay work. Bosch PR-20 selected.

A.... 2 1/4 hp like the Dewalt 618PK for hand use

A.... 3 1/4 p router such as a Triton or PC 7518

Thanks for the inputs and the lead on the Canadian table.

Herb Mulqueen Jr.

[Jeff Bratt]

Router tables are very useful and popular, and there are many varieties - as you have discovered. If you haven't seen Pat Warner's site (http://www.patwarner.com/) - it's a good reference for all things router. Maybe some more information will clear some of your confusion.

Many things will work as a router table - from a router hung from a piece of plywood, with a 2x4 clamped to it for a fence, up to the fancy tables with micro-adjustable fences and motorized router lifts, or the multi-axis joint-milling systems. You need to decide is what you want to build, then figure out what tools will help you build that stuff.

The best bang for your buck will be to make your own router table - however, that may be difficult for a first project - you don't say what other tools (if any) you might have or be planning on acquiring, or how much space you have available. A router - even with a table - is not a complete woodworking system. It's used for making some kinds of joints and for decorative edging.

[Danny Thompson]

If you want to be "in love" with your router (and I mean that in the best hobbyists sense), and the router is going to be your primary woodworking machine (a la "The Router Workshop"), then buy yourself a router table that you would want to show off, one that looks clean and complete, and is fully functional.

The Kreg is the best publicized. The RT1000 sounds like a great option, too.

If it is going to be one of many serious woodworking machines, then consider a cheaper setup now and make your own fully functional router table later.

[Rod Sheridan]

Herbert, welcome to the forum.

You seem to be starting out from square one.

Do you own a table saw, jointer or planer?

How about dust collection?

These are some of the primary tools, a router table would normally come after the above tools.

I'm not sure why you would start with a router table, however, here are my thoughts;

I don't own a router table, I own a shaper so you may want to discount my opinion.

I would purchase a 3HP shaper that comes with a 1/2" router collet for the following reasons;

- a shaper is far more powerful than a router and can of course be used with shaper cutters that have superior cutting geometry.

- a shaper has a high quality cast iron table that is flat, and will stay flat for as long as you own it.

- shapers have split fences, with excellent dust collection

- shapers can run 1/2" shank router bits if you buy a shaper with a router bit collet.

- a 3 HP Taiwanese shaper (Delta, Steel City, General International etc) will have two speeds and the spindle direction is reversible.

- a reversible spindle allows you to flip shaper cutters over and cut with the grain, routers of course only rotate in one direction so grain direction can be a problem.

- shapers are much quiter than routers, and their cutters last much longer.

- power feeders are easilly fitted to shapers to provide consitent feed speeds and pressures, resulting in superior cutting

The other aspect you want to look at is dust collection, it's important for your health, and for the operation of your cutting tools.

I don't know if there are any clubs or courses in your area, however they are excellent starting points for this hobby.

Regards, Rod.

[David DeCristoforo]

Get a strip of MDF and a couple of "C" clamps. Presto... one cheap router fence. After a while you will have a better idea of your needs and which of the many expensive commercial fences will be the best fit. Of course you might end up like me.... thirty years later and still using the piece of MDF....

PS It's not the same piece of MDF! FWIW I should add that this is one of the few uses of MDF which I approve of....

[Neal Clayton]

I expect have a least three routers.

A ...1 hp for the Micro-Fence 3 axis mill and inlay work. Bosch PR-20 selected.

A.... 2 1/4 hp like the Dewalt 618PK for hand use

A.... 3 1/4 p router such as a Triton or PC 7518

Thanks for the inputs and the lead on the Canadian table.

Herb Mulqueen Jr.

sounds like you pretty much got it figured. most (well at least some) people have 3 or 4 for those reasons.

the only reason to need an accurate square fence for a router table is if you intend to build doors windows and such with it, and want to cut your tenons on the router table.

otherwise the fence isn't nearly as critical as a saw fence.

btw you might also take a look at the quality grinding forum at the bottom here, if you have a table saw to attach a router table to. that solves alot of router table issues (can use the table saw fence, can eliminate another tool taking up space, don't have to worry with the table part of the table, etc.). they make steel router tables that you can attach to whatever you like, and then supply your own fence, router, lift or insert plate, etc.

[Myk Rian]

My first router table was a sink cutout from a countertop and a piece of wood w/clamps for a fence. I made a box and screwed it to that. I used it to make my next table. Don't fret the small stuff. A reclaimed cabinet from Habitat for Humanity with a chunk of countertop is all you really need.

[Stephen Edwards]

For $200 bucks plus shipping, this ain't a bad starter set-up:

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=21291

Sign up for the news letter for free and then keep an out out for free shipping days.

My two cents worth.

[Mike Gager]

a router table doesnt have to be super fancy, you can get it done with a piece of plywood with a hole in it for the router bits to stick through clamped to a bench. dont over think things, especially when starting out

[Herbert Mulqueen]

First, thanks for all the input. Your information has improved my knowledge.

I am now looking at a simple router table and if things go well a used shaper with hopefully lots of used tooling. There is a SCMI used on Ebay right now with tons of tooling. Of course it's way ahead of my schedule.

I am now the owner of a slightly used Triton 3 1/4 hp router which is planned to be used on the router table. Still planning for a Dewalt 618 for hand work along with the Bosch pr-20 trimmer. An dove tail jig machines like a Akema is also on the horizon.

The shaper with a feeder sounds good to me.

As for my plans for full blown wood working shop I just don't know. Being a machine nut I cold really blow a great amount of money. One never seems to have enough tools. (Remember the man who dies with the most toys WINS). Perhaps, crawling and then walking before running head first into this might be prudent. It probably will be the frustration factor that I surely could use that specific tool now.

I have the physical facility if needed. Have a spare area off the barn with 32 x64 x 12 clear at the low and 18 foot at the high. And that is just the clear space. Lots of space for storage, dust collection elsewhere. 32 x32 has a heavy industrial wood floor with 4 foot crawl space. Also have a 60 hp rotary phase convertor to 3 phase sitting doing nothing. Access to 3 phase power is available. Had a line from sub station to truss plant brought in for miles over 30 years ago. Yes it cost a lot. So other than paying a another demand meter, run 300 yards of overhead. Then I can use industrial 3 phase machines which are sometimes more available on the market.

You asked what I have currently in the way of tools.

As for present tools. Kinda a mixed bag of tools. But lots of support equipment. 2 dewalt miter stations with compound miter saws. Air compressors, 5 hand power saws, triton 3/1/4 hp router. Micrometers up to 24 inches . Machinist Straight edges up to 3 feet. 2 Nilfisk hepa vacumns, 3 mobile shop vacuum's, very large skidsteer with forks, lumber racks, lots of measuring tools such as triangles, squares, digital and standard protractors.
Bisquit machine, hand planner,lots of sawalls, impact hammers, drills,etc. large jig table, clamps, woodpecker clamping squares.

Oh well , ramble as usual.

Bottom line, you all have given me lots of information. Changed my views of high end router tables with space age router fences.

Again, thank you very much.

Regards,

Herb

[Andrew Joiner]

Get a strip of MDF and a couple of "C" clamps. Presto... one cheap router fence. After a while you will have a better idea of your needs and which of the many expensive commercial fences will be the best fit. Of course you might end up like me.... thirty years later and still using the piece of MDF....

PS It's not the same piece of MDF! FWIW I should add that this is one of the few uses of MDF which I approve of....

Me too David.

I smile every time I use mine. MDF = My Deluxe Fence.

Right?