Replacement Jointer Belts -- OEM or Aftermarket?

[Danny Thompson]

I need to purchase replacment belts for a Grizzly G0500 jointer. Should I go back to Grizzly, or is there a better alternative?

[Scott Loven]

I need to purchase replacement belts for a Grizzly G0500 jointer. Should I go back to Grizzly, or is there a better alternative?
Try a Link Belt, should run smoother. Any belt of the same size and shape should be fine.
Scott

[Chip Lindley]

The only reason I would go back to Grizzly is for their version of the *link-type* segmented belt. I seriously doubt if Grizzly's V-belts are anything special! Buy the size belt you need from any local source--hardware or auto supply stores. I like the V-belts with notches in the back for extra flexiblity. Or, go all out (to dampen vibration issues) with a Fenner Power Twist link belt.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

Gates belts, from a local auto parts store will work well. I think that link belts are hooey personally, but thats not the question I guess;)

[Gary Click]

I just took a 6 month old OEM belt off of my Grizzly jointer and replaced it with a link belt. The jointer had a slight vibration in it caused by the belt. The link belt cured the vibration and is a little quieter. If'n you are a-feared of the link belt buy a new Gates premimum belt.

I have used link belts for 25 years and have always had good results even in the original style that had a metal stud connector in each link.

gary

[James Williams 007]

I just put new knives and a link belt on my G0490 jointer and its a completely different machine. The link belt took all of the vibration out and made it a little quieter. I am ordering link belts for my drill press and bandsaw this week!

[glenn bradley]

+1 on link belts; ask an owner (or a user as the case may be) ;-)

[Chip Lindley]

Power Twist link belts smoothed all the *hooey* out of my 14" Delta BS and Rockwell Model 10 CS. NO comparison, before and after! I'm from Missouri, I Had to be Shown!

[Curt Harms]

I seem to recall they have the benefit of not taking a set the same as link belts but being a good bit cheaper. One source no experience with 'em:

http://agsupplyonline.com/.sc/ms/cat/Belts%20"Cogged%20V%20Belt"


Curt

[Steve Rozmiarek]

I don't want to start the link belt debate, but...:D

Most of the posts that I've seen, and people that I've talked to, compare link belts to the factory belts. Factory belts, especially on tools built to a price point, like Griz, Sunhill, Shop Fox, Jet, etc, leave a lot to be desired. I think ANY belt would show an improvement over one of those. If you want to spend the extra $ for link belts, go ahead, you will have a perfectly usable set of belts that will work better then the old ones, for quite a while. If on the other hand, you don't want to spend extra, and still get the benefits, plus longer life, buy a Gates or equivilent.

Just so you know where I'm coming from, I own part of a large farm, and we have literally thousands of belts on tools, machines and equipment. Link belts where tried by our industry 15 years ago or so, and to tell you how well they held up, there are zero of them left on our farm and none left on the parts store counters. We work in extreme conditions, but those very conditions do provide a good test for durability. In the end though, it's your money, and if you think there is a benefit to this, or any product, you will not regret a purchase. If you want the "best" though, it can be had cheaper.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

I seem to recall they have the benefit of not taking a set the same as link belts but being a good bit cheaper. One source no experience with 'em:

http://agsupplyonline.com/.sc/ms/cat/Belts%20"Cogged%20V%20Belt"


Curt


I have used them, in heavy use, the durability is reduced, but in a woodworking machine, that should not be an issue.

[Bill White]

While we are wearing on the belt issue, I seem to remember that links should not be used with alloy pulleys. I'd like to put one on my '52 Craftsman King/Seely DP, but as you may guess, it has the alloy step pulleys. Any thoughts? :confused:
I have the link belt on the BS with steel pulleys. It sure made a difference.
Bill

[Danny Thompson]

Well, last night I did a full inventory of missing parts and placed the order this morning. There were a bunch of missing studs, bolts, and handles, plus the blade guard, infeed table extension, and handwheels. Apparently I needed to feel whole because I ordered all of them, including 5' of Grizzly link belt ($35)--enough to make 2 belts for the G0500. All tolled, $130 plus shipping.

If I had skipped the blade guard, dropped the infeed extension, and went with a cheaper belt, it would have been more like $80. But, then I would have thought of it as a junker.

In the end, I wouldn't quite call it a steal, but still a lot cheaper than a new 586--currently $800 delivered.

[CPeter James]

I have used the Power Twist (link) belts and they do work, but for much less money I like the AX series of belts. I get mine from Mcmaster Carr. When ordering, remember that the size is two inches different than the lenght. IE. an ax30 is 32 inches long and an ax28 is 30 inches long. That information is on the Mcmaster Carr website. They run very smooth as they are machined on the edges and with the cogs, they go around smaller pulleys better and are quiter that the link belts.

CPeter

[Pete Bradley]

You don't have to go to Griz. For a jointer with a relatively small top pulley I recommend an AX (cogged) machine belt, though if it came with solid, solid should be fine too. McMaster (www.mcmaster.com) sells high quality Gates belts. Avoid the lumpy cheapo ones at the hardware store.

Link belts make a big difference if you replace an old hard belt with a link belt. Of course, the belt I just recommended will make the same difference while keeping money in your wallet. Sadly, it doesn't look as cool, it just works. ;)

[Rick Lizek]

Try a cogged v-belt instead. I've been putting them on for years on tools I fix for clients. Just as good as a link belt for a fraction of the cost. Quieter too. OEM belts are over priced and of a lesser quality. Same with blades.

[Ben West]

+1 on the cogged belts. I've never tried the link belts, so I won't comment on how well they work, but, man are they expensive. Link belt for my Powermatic 81 bandsaw would run about $60, while 2 cogged belts cost 1/3 of that at $20. The cogged belts (I got mine at AutoZone) were a big step up from the OEM belts.