Millers Falls painted tote...how to remove paint w/o damage

[Craig Johnson]

Hi everyone.
I recently won an Ebay auction for a Millers Falls plane. It does not have any marking on the side typical of Millers Falls but it has everything the same as my 9C.
Anyway, I just got it today and the knob and tote are painted black.
I didnt see any reference on the Millers Falls history about this and would like to remove the paint. It appears there is nice hardwood underneath it.
I can see the same type of wood grain under the paint as my cocobolo tote and knob on the 9C (I think).
My question is what is the best way to remove that thick sticky paint to allow the natural grain of the wood to show without damaging the wood or the finish possibly underneath.
I tried mineral spirits but I just wiped it vigorously. Didnt seem to do much.
Maybe soak it in something?
If they are painted from the factory I might leave it alone.
Am looking for anyone who has seen this black paint before and opinions.

http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x123/gearhound17/IMG_2184.jpg
http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x123/gearhound17/IMG_2185.jpg

[Mike Henderson]

To my knowledge, and based on the Millers Falls planes I've owned, they came painted from the factory. The wood underneath that paint is nothing special - the ones I've owned were just some light colored wood without much character. I would sand them down and repaint them black, or if you like the look of the natural wood, give them a clear finish of some type.

Or replace them with some of cherry, walnut, or cocobolo. Cherry actually looks very nice.

Mike

[Matthew Dunne]

I'm a newbie and can't help with what's authentic to the planes.

I can tell you that if you decide to strip it, I've had great luck stripping with citristrip. Smells fine, relatively non-toxic, effective, and doesn't seem to hurt the underlying wood. I've only used it for millwork in my house, not plane totes.

http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/300/49/4907b3c0-7161-4053-8365-cd945cf5c211_300.jpg

[Mike Cutler]

Craig

I have a MF #18 with a black painted tote. It look pretty much "factory" too me. The totes also only fits an MF, at least mine do,( The bolt holes are just slightly different than a Stanley), which is why I suspect it's original. My MF #14 has a brown lacquered tote though.
I suspect that the wood may be some type of wood related to the rosewood family. It is pretty wood isn't?

[george wilson]

The wood pictured above is more like maple,or beech. Can't see enough to be sure,except it is a white hard wood.

[Craig Johnson]

I keep thinking about do I or do I not want to remove the black paint.
I really like the laquered look of rosewood or whatever it is.
OTOH I kinda want to keep it original looking.
Not sure which way Im gonna go yet.

[Mike Henderson]

It depends upon your philosophy of tools. Some people like to keep a tool with all the accumulated "age" (dirt, grease, rust, etc.) because they feel it reminds them of the heritage of the tool and they feel good using something that our ancestors used.

Others (I'm one) believe that the condition of our tools affect our work - that a tool should be "like new" and should be kept that way. I clean up old tools that I buy and "improve" them if I can. I may replace the knob and tote with a beautiful wood, put a modern iron in a plane, or replace the handle on an old chisel with one that looks better and feels better in my hand.

If I had your plane, I'd sand that knob and tote and paint them with black lacquer, or I'd make a new knob and tote from some nice wood.

But that's me. You have to decide what your philosophy is.

Mike

[I can essentially guarantee there's no rosewood under that black paint. I'd go with George's guess as to the wood.]

[Jim Koepke]

In many ways, my feelings are the same as Mike's.

The feel experienced while using a well cared for tool is worth the effort of cleaning and polishing. Though for my tools, I usually leave the wood bare. To me, the feel of smooth rose wood is quite satisfying while planing wood.

jim

[Craig Johnson]

I agree with both of you.
I prefer to get a used tool, clean all of the rust and grime off and make it as good a "new" tool as I can.
I think I will sand it down and see whats what.
I might look at some rosewood for the tote and knob after that.

[Steve Clardy]

I soak mine in denatured alcohol to remove paint

[Craig Johnson]

Thanks Steve.
I was wondering how many other ways to remove that paint safely.
Thanks for the tip!!

[JD Dolan]

Personally, I'd chuck them and contact this guy:

http://www.drozsoldetymestanleytotesandknobs.com/

I had Greg Droz make the knobs and totes for a couple of Stanleys as well as a couple of new LN planes. His work is outstanding--better than the new LN stuff.

J.D.

[Craig Johnson]

Personally, I'd chuck them and contact this guy:

http://www.drozsoldetymestanleytotesandknobs.com/

I had Greg Droz make the knobs and totes for a couple of Stanleys as well as a couple of new LN planes. His work is outstanding--better than the new LN stuff.

J.D.

I just got a set from him for my Stanley #5. Really great quality stuff.
This one I dont want to spend any money on. So gonna clean it up and keep it.
Now if it had a broken tote or knob that would be a different story.

[Mike Brady]

+1 on Greg Droz's work.

[Craig Johnson]

Personally, I'd chuck them and contact this guy:

http://www.drozsoldetymestanleytotesandknobs.com/

I had Greg Droz make the knobs and totes for a couple of Stanleys as well as a couple of new LN planes. His work is outstanding--better than the new LN stuff.

J.D.

I agree. Really really nice stuff. If you need a knob or tote or both he's the man. Resonable prices too.