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Steve Goetz
03-02-2009, 6:13 PM
Hello. I recently bought a 52" unifence for my delta unisaw. The fence was purchased for $250 and was mounted to a 1998 delta contractors saw. I think I got a pretty good deal.:D My question is this: The wooden table extension that was on the saw is rotten. I've taken it off of the contractors saw and now I'm wanting to mount it to my unisaw. Can anyone give me some pointers on the most stable and secure way of attaching it to my unisaw. I have the angle brackets and leg extension from the contractors saw. Should I just remount those bracket onto the unisaw and put a piece of MDF on top, or does anyone have any other suggestions?
Also, since I'm starting from scratch, would you recommend incorporating a router table into the extension table as well or use a seperate RT? I have a alum. craftsman router table know, but thought I may be able to save some space with the router table mounted into the ext. table.
Thanks for any input.

Myk Rian
03-02-2009, 6:18 PM
Depending on how thick it is and what you do to brace it underneath, a router in an extension wing can be OK. I prefer a separate router table.
If the old wing is rotten, why put it in another saw?

Steve Goetz
03-02-2009, 6:42 PM
If the old wing is rotten, why put it in another saw?

I'm planning on replacing the wooden part. What I didn't know is what material to use to replace it with.

glenn bradley
03-02-2009, 6:57 PM
I have run well supported MDF for years. BLO, a paste wax job and all is well. Folks do go with laminates and such but the saw (which now has a second home with the same extension) has yet to need even a touch up other than a little wax when the saw gets done. Cheap, stable (if well supported) and durable. I hear some folks refer to MDF as weak cardboard. I have to wonder what they are doing to it?

Jim O'Dell
03-02-2009, 7:48 PM
I made my extension table out of MDF, as a torsion box. Then put laminate on the top and sides, and poly on the underside. Seems to work very well. Plus it color coordinates with the separate router table, the 2 10' long benches on one wall, the mobile miter saw cabinet, and the mobile planer cabinet, and........:rolleyes:
You can do just fine building a nice grid work frame, and placing 1 layer of MDF on and seal and wax as Glenn said. It will serve you well for years and years. Jim.

Myk Rian
03-02-2009, 7:49 PM
MDF is weak cardboard if you plan on doing any kind of joinery with it. It's best for tops. I use doubled 3/4" for my RTs. Heavy, but darned strong.
A couple of ply braces underneath will keep it from sagging from the weight of a router.

Steve Goetz
03-02-2009, 7:59 PM
I made my extension table out of MDF, as a torsion box. Then put laminate on the top and sides, and poly on the underside. Seems to work very well. Plus it color coordinates with the separate router table, the 2 10' long benches on one wall, the mobile miter saw cabinet, and the mobile planer cabinet, and........:rolleyes:
You can do just fine building a nice grid work frame, and placing 1 layer of MDF on and seal and wax as Glenn said. It will serve you well for years and years. Jim.

Jim, can you explain the "torsion box" idea? I'm not familiar with this term. Do have any pics? Thanks, Steve

Steven J Corpstein
03-02-2009, 9:01 PM
I've got a General, but it's the same principal on all of them. I didn't want to drill holes in the cabinet so I made supports that use the mobile base for attachment.

Table saw extension (http://www.datasystemsltd.com/saw)

Scott Schwake
03-03-2009, 12:15 PM
Jim, can you explain the "torsion box" idea? I'm not familiar with this term. Do have any pics? Thanks, Steve

Here's one: http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/FWNPDFfree/assembly_table.pdf

There's also a video on the Wood Whisperer website showing how he built this bench/torsion box.

Thomas Canfield
03-04-2009, 1:10 AM
I made a table saw extension for 52" Beisemeyer using 3/4" Melamine (from Lowes and cheap) sitting on a frame made up of 3/4" x 2" Red Oak (had some left over and it is much better than pine). Beisemeyer had a typical plan for the support frame that bolted to the cast iron table saw top and the front and rear angle iron furnished by Beisemeyer. I added legs on the outside end. A hole was planned in the frame for a router insert cut-out that I added later. The 3/4" Melamine has not presented any problem and with wax is very slick and easy to maintain.

Chip Lindley
03-04-2009, 12:59 PM
Hi Steve! I am a Big Fan of router inserts incorporated into these extensions, to utilize all that *real estate*! Rarely is over HALF of that 50" rip capacity needed on a TS!

The torsion box solution for an ext.table is a great one! Actually, thinner *skins* can be used effectively (and remain FLAT) with a tortion box because of its very design. Same concept as the hollow-core door!

HEAVY 3/4 MDF seems to be the norm, but in all actuality, 3/8 plywood for both skins could provide a stable, flat surface, with adequate interior framing. With torsion boxes, the flatness comes from the design, not depending on a thick SLAB to provide flatness! I would cover the top with high pressure laminate (aka Formica/WilsonArt) for a clean *finished look*.

Of course, incorporating a router insert will cause a cutout to be made beneath, and beefing up the router area will be needed. It's all very *Doable* with a great savings in weight while maintaining same or BETTER stability and strength than a thick heavy slab top!

Dan Tipton
03-04-2009, 1:17 PM
I was able to get "slightly damaged" counter tops for $5 each and cut them down to size to use on my table saw extension. Quick and cheap and works well...

Chris Tsutsui
03-04-2009, 1:35 PM
For outfeed support for my Bosch 4000 jobsite saw/gravity stand, I have to use two roller supports which help support larger pieces of wood on the outfeed side. (If i don't have a helper)

I was thinking that if I needed a table I would make two saw horses and screw a sheet of wood on top after making sure the top is level with the table saw.

I just don't want to have to build a table that only has one task.

My router table top has all kinds of t-tracks, slots, and has stuff bolted to it so it doesn't seem like a good candidate for acting as a table saw outfeed table.

Mark Grotenhuis
03-04-2009, 1:43 PM
I've got a General, but it's the same principal on all of them. I didn't want to drill holes in the cabinet so I made supports that use the mobile base for attachment.

Table saw extension (http://www.datasystemsltd.com/saw)

Steven where did you get the hardware for the foldable legs on your out-feed table? I have been looking for a while and haven't found a supplier. The legs on my table are just wedged in there right now.

http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn105/Hozerhuis/0-2.jpg