Best picture frame clamp

[Andy Favors]

I'm looking to buy a new frame clamp. I'm using a cheapo harbor freight right now, but it's just one of those 90 degree clamps. Doesn't really pull anything together. I have seen a lot of this type here around online........

http://www.grizzly.com/products/Adjustable-Frame-Clamp/G3047

Is this design good? And in particular this grizzly one? One brand I read about had issues with plastic pieces breaking on them. This looks to be all aluminum, but I could be wrong. Does anyone here have one of these to give some feedback? Thanks.

[Tom Veatch]

Andy,

I own one which looks to be similar, if not identical to the one you referenced. I believe the red corner pieces are plastic; they are on mine.

I used it for the first time a couple of days ago and was impressed. The mitered corners pulled in tight with even squeeze out. Best mitered corners I've ever done. Based on my (limited) experience with the clamp, I recommend it.

I may be unpleasantly surprised down the road, but I don't think there's a lot of danger of breaking the corner pieces IF the miter joints are cut accurately. On the other hand, if they are miscut and you try to force the fit with this clamp, then you could have a problem.

BTW, the Grizzly price is better than what I paid, and quite a bit better than the current price from my source.

[Dan Bowman]

I've been very happy with the Merle clamp from MLCS: http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/merle_clamp.html

[Phil Thien]

The thing I didn't like about the highlighted Grizzly clamp is that it applied uneven forces unless the frame you're gluing is square. As frames approached elongated rectangles it didn't work so great for me.

I also tried the Merle band clamp and found it to be somewhat difficult to control for smaller frames. For larger pieces it is probably great.

Next, I'm going to try one of these:

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10401&filter=frame%20clamp

These are just my opinions. I've read lots of positive comments on both the first clamp mentioned and the Merle.

[john bateman]

The thing I didn't like about the highlighted Grizzly clamp is that it applied uneven forces unless the frame you're gluing is square. As frames approached elongated rectangles it didn't work so great for me.

I also tried the Merle band clamp and found it to be somewhat difficult to control for smaller frames. For larger pieces it is probably great.

Next, I'm going to try one of these:

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10401&filter=frame%20clamp

These are just my opinions. I've read lots of positive comments on both the first clamp mentioned and the Merle.

I have a pair of those Rockler models. They function OK, although you can't apply a lot of pressure with the knurled nuts.
My biggest gripe is that the "speed nuts" don't actually grab the threads until you get all 4 of them partially tightened. So if you want to pick up the clamp and move it while it's set for an approximate size, the whole thing just falls apart...the nuts usually rolling under a tool or bench.

[Michael O'Sullivan]

I have a band clamp (Bessey, I think) that I really like -- the trick I found is that you need to tape the joints first to keep everything somewhat stable while you size and tighten the clamp.

[Andy Favors]

so it sounds as if there is really no perfect solution for a frame clamp. All seem to have their problems. Maybe someone else has some input too.

[Ben Galluzzo]

I made one of these for my father-in-law from plans in Wood Magazine. It worked out well. It might be worth a try.

http://images.meredith.com/wood/images/162issuepreview/p_easy_pictframe.jpg

[Andy Favors]

that design does look like it would work good, but space is a big concern where I am, no shop, and in an apartment.

[Joe Scharle]

Yup,
I've been very happy with the Merle clamp from MLCS: http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops...rle_clamp.html (http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/merle_clamp.html) http://www.sawmillcreek.org/images/buttons/quote.gif (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/newreply.php?do=newreply&p=1068832)

[Ben Galluzzo]

that design does look like it would work good, but space is a big concern where I am, no shop, and in an apartment.

Yes, excellent point. It is a big design.

[Joe Von Kaenel]

Andy,


I've been making a lot of picture frames over the last few years. The clamp in the Grizzly link works fairly well on 8 x 10 and larger frames. I also use the Quick release clamps from Rockler, these work well for any size frame. As stated above, it is tough to get a lot of tension with the knurled nuts.

The information I've read and seen by Jerry Cole who is a miter magician, uses masking tape to hold his frames while the glue is drying. In His book "The Picture Frame Guide" which comes with a DVD He states that you don't really need that much pressure if the miters match. He's like Norm, making it look so easy. :)


Joe

[Lee Schierer]

I use a clamp similar to this one. You can individually tight up each side and check for square. http://images.rockler.com/rockler/images/62674-01-200.jpg

You can get threaded rod joiner nuts and more threaded rod to make the clamp any size you want.

[Andy Sowers]

I use these from Bessey:

http://www.woodcraft.com/product.aspx?ProductID=127933&FamilyID=1740

Instead of buying the strap clamp for ~$40 I just bought a 6-pack of the corner gizmos for about $15 and used a racheting strap clamp that I already had.

Works well for me.

Andy

[Nissim Avrahami]

Nothing special, just 4 corners...I added fences to hold the strap in place...

I'm using a 40mm (1-9/16") width strap (the one that is used in cars) and in case of big frame (more than 40"), I can connect another strap...

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t104/nanikami/Glass%20table%20WIP/011.jpg

niki

[Tim Malyszko]

Nothing special, just 4 corners...I added fences to hold the strap in place...

I'm using a 40mm (1-9/16") width strap (the one that is used in cars) and in case of big frame (more than 40"), I can connect another strap...

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t104/nanikami/Glass%20table%20WIP/011.jpg


I really like your solution. It replicates the Bessey Band clamp I use, but I actually like your homemade setup much better.

[Andy Favors]

that is pretty interesting, still torn on what to get, I'm leaning to the Merle clamp though.

[Shawn Buonarosa]

I like the Besseys, the band is huge and can be used for large pieces as well as small frames and boxes. I've clamped up cabinet carcasses with them.

[Chris Padilla]

Bessey Strap Clamp (http://www.woodcraft.com/product.aspx?ProductID=127924&FamilyID=1740) worked great for me. I was actually able to use it gluing up door casings although I had to extend the strap for the door casing around a very large sliding glass door! :)

[Stephen Edwards]

Nothing special, just 4 corners...I added fences to hold the strap in place...

I'm using a 40mm (1-9/16") width strap (the one that is used in cars) and in case of big frame (more than 40"), I can connect another strap...

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t104/nanikami/Glass%20table%20WIP/011.jpg

niki

Niki, Are your corner blocks made of plywood? How do you get the inside cuts on the clamping blocks perfectly square, please?

Thanks,

[Clifford Mescher]

Does anybody have any experience with V-nails? I am interested in this hand driver from Lee Valley. Does this work? Thanks. Clifford.
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&cat=1,43293,52113&p=52113

[Clifford Mescher]

Does anybody have any experience with V-nails? I am interested in this hand driver from Lee Valley. Does this work? Thanks. Clifford.
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&cat=1,43293,52113&p=52113
Shameless bump. I am real curious about the V-nails. Are they worth the money? Is it easy to push them in with this tool? Clifford.
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&cat=1,43293,52113&p=52113

[Ed Howe]

I've used a similar tool with v-nails, and it works so-so. I can drive them into poplar without much trouble. I couldn't get them in to purple heart, though. Driving them all the way in to harder wood is a pain. My recommendation? Skip it unless you work with softer woods.

[Clifford Mescher]

I've used a similar tool with v-nails, and it works so-so. I can drive them into poplar without much trouble. I couldn't get them in to purple heart, though. Driving them all the way in to harder wood is a pain. My recommendation? Skip it unless you work with softer woods.
Thanks ED. Someone PM'd me and said they drive them home with plastic hammer. Clifford.

[Will Blick]

I think all these clamps are NOT the ideal solution for miters.... the pressure they exert is not in the right direction. Considering wood expands on its width, miter joints are subjected to huge loads from wood movement, so maximizing the hold force of the glue is important if want to increase your chances of a closed miter for many years.

In which case, you need to put force in the direction of the glue line.... such as this...http://www.sawmillcreek.org/www.mikestools.com/ZoomImage.aspx?productID=GSP12 see last image to right


http://www.mikestools.com/images/Gross_Stabil_Pages/Gross%20Stabil%20Pictures/gross%20gsp%20lar1.jpg


http://www.mikestools.com/ZoomImage.aspx?productID=GSP12.jpg

[Tim Thomas]

I have some used Craftsman clamps that look like the picture I have attached. I really like these because you can use them for other things. They work great as an extra hand for holding two pieces of stock perpendicular to each other. I used several when putting together some simple shop shelves this weekend. And of course, I have also used them for picture/mirror frames.

One other nice thing about these clamps (although I haven't had a chance to use this feature) is that in the set of 4 clamps, one has a built in saw guide for making miter cuts. Hard to describe, but there are two vertical supports at the corner with a split down the middle which would guide a saw to make a perfect 45 degree miter cut. You could probably also use this to fine tune mirror and molding cuts that need to be shortened just a hair. Oh wait, google image search saved my bacon! Check the picture with the green clamp.

Anyway, just another option. They work pretty well for me, but I'm not mass producing picture frames either.

[Andy Pratt]

I use the bessey strap clamp also. I purchased one a few years ago and bought another last year after realizing how much I used it. It's the clamp I go to when other ones don't work, and it almost always solves the problem. I use it primarily for picture frames and end grain cutting boards and haven't had any negative issues. You have to fiddle the miters a tiny bit to make sure they line up perfectly, but it seems like that is a necessity with most any clamp.

I also have the lee valley picture frame clamp that operates on threaded rod and right angle corners. It works, but you have to measure and adjust for square yourself and it's 4 parts to adjust instead of just one. I stopped using it and just use the bessey now.

Andy

[Lee Schierer]

One other nice thing about these clamps (although I haven't had a chance to use this feature) is that in the set of 4 clamps, one has a built in saw guide for making miter cuts. Hard to describe, but there are two vertical supports at the corner with a split down the middle which would guide a saw to make a perfect 45 degree miter cut. You could probably also use this to fine tune mirror and molding cuts that need to be shortened just a hair. Oh wait, google image search saved my bacon! Check the picture with the green clamp.

I have a set of the Craftsman clamps you describe and the miter slot for trimming miters sounds better than it actually works. The guide is really too small to guide a saw and it acts as a clamp if you get it too tight on the saw blade. If it is loose enough to allow the cut to be made the saw will wander offline leaving a ragged cut. I do all my miter cuts on a miter sled I made for my TS.

[Clifford Mescher]

I think all these clamps are NOT the ideal solution for miters.... the pressure they exert is not in the right direction. Considering wood expands on its width, miter joints are subjected to huge loads from wood movement, so maximizing the hold force of the glue is important if want to increase your chances of a closed miter for many years.

In which case, you need to put force in the direction of the glue line.... such as this...http://www.sawmillcreek.org/www.mikestools.com/ZoomImage.aspx?productID=GSP12 see last image to right


http://www.mikestools.com/images/Gross_Stabil_Pages/Gross%20Stabil%20Pictures/gross%20gsp%20lar1.jpg


http://www.mikestools.com/ZoomImage.aspx?productID=GSP12.jpg


Those clamps do bring the miters together properly but after a long search they do not seem to be available. Do you have a link as to where I could check them out? Clifford.

[Tim Thomas]

I have a set of the Craftsman clamps you describe and the miter slot for trimming miters sounds better than it actually works. The guide is really too small to guide a saw and it acts as a clamp if you get it too tight on the saw blade. If it is loose enough to allow the cut to be made the saw will wander offline leaving a ragged cut. I do all my miter cuts on a miter sled I made for my TS.

Well, there you have it folks! Lee's real world experience trumps my lofty ideals, and I will defer to him on this issue. :D For the record I also make my miter cuts on the table saw, but I thought maybe the built in miter saw guide could be a bonus for neanderthals. Looks like that is just wishful thinking. I still like the clamps for other stuff though! And the fact that I inherited one set and only paid $2.50 for the other set at a yard sale means the price was right for me.

[Will Blick]

Cliff, not sure who makes those clamps anymore... I bought a ton of them when Bessey bought GS. GS had some of the best miter clamps made...... long discontinued. They also used to sell side blocks for miter clamping.... sometimes even more effective in situations where you have a molded profile on one of both sides of the boards being joined....

IIRC, another firm also made these clamps..... maybe someone might remember.....

[Chris Padilla]

http://www.miterclamp.com/ looks pretty nice, too, although a bit spendy.

I followed this guy's method for putting up door casings (except I used my Bessey strap clamp and only did one casing at a time) and it worked extremely well.

[Clifford Mescher]

http://www.miterclamp.com/ looks pretty nice, too, although a bit spendy.

I followed this guy's method for putting up door casings (except I used my Bessey strap clamp and only did one casing at a time) and it worked extremely well.
Those look very nice for door framers. Not quite what I was looking for pertaining to picture framing. Only do this occasionally. Might order some V-nails. Clifford.