Opinions on Making a new router table?

[keith ouellette]

I am making a router table. It was the last project I was going to start last year before I got laid up.

It is going to be attached to the table saw and be part of the extension table.

To be flat and keep it from sagging over time I was going to take a piece of Mdf the size of the table and then use my dado blade to cut some 1/8th in. deep grooves and dados in the back to except a webbing of 3/4 cabinet grade plywood.

Is this a sound idea?

what is flatter, mdf of melamine?

does mdf come in 1" thickness?

[Bob Genovesi]

I would use MDF over melamine and would double up on the thickness, in this case a total of 1 1/2 inches thick.

To keep it from sagging I wound not carve groves into it as it will weaken the top. From the bottom, I'd glue and screw a couple of pieces of red oak that will ensure the top remains flat over time.

This will become quite heavy so be sure that you add support legs to take the added weight so that you don't tip the saw over or warp the top.

[keith ouellette]

I would use MDF over melamine and would double up on the thickness, in this case a total of 1 1/2 inches thick.

To keep it from sagging I wound not carve groves into it as it will weaken the top. From the bottom, I'd glue and screw a couple of pieces of red oak that will ensure the top remains flat over time.

This will become quite heavy so be sure that you add support legs to take the added weight so that you don't tip the saw over or warp the top.

If I used red oak as a support to keep it flat what will happen as the oak expands and contracts, or is red oak very stable?


I was using plywood to make a support structure because I thought it would be more stable.

[Michael Prisbylla]

I did something similar in my RT currently under construction. I cut two 1/8" grooves in the MDF and fitted them with 1"x1/8" steel bars held in place with epoxy. It won't sag in that axis, and I'm going to put angle iron below perpendicular to the bars so I should have a sag-free table.

[keith ouellette]

I did something similar in my RT currently under construction. I cut two 1/8" grooves in the MDF and fitted them with 1"x1/8" steel bars held in place with epoxy. It won't sag in that axis, and I'm going to put angle iron below perpendicular to the bars so I should have a sag-free table.

wood, steel and epoxy. three of my favorite things.

[Tom Cross]

I followed Pat Warner's advice here:

www.patwarner.com (http://www.patwarner.com)

It is a 3/4" MDF top with a torsion box support. It is dead flat and stays that way. Construction details are on Pat's website. I bought a Milwaukee 3 HP router, bolted the base to the top and cut a small hole for router bits. The Milwaukee motor is removeable so bit changing is very easy. It also has a micro adjust which is a joy to use. I highly recommend the set up.

[Rob Price]

I was going to suggest a torsion box type design as well, that's on the short list of my next projects to build- a new- FLAT- router table.

[Jim O'Dell]

My router table is a stand alone unit, but I used a webbing of 3/4" ply, making the openings 6" X 8". The 3/4" ply is about 5" tall. I did this more to reach the height I needed/wanted the finished table top to be. Then attached 2 layers of 3/4" MDF. Plastic laminate on the top and sides. So far it has stayed flat. I think the 3/4" Ply would be fine. And possible more stable that the hardwood. You might think about going ahead and making a torsion box. As long as you assemble it on a dead flat surface, it will be and stay dead flat. That's what I did for my table saw extension table. Of course, the section for the router will have to be open at the bottom, and I think I'd still want 2 layers at least at that point, especially if you will be installing a heavy router and lift plate. Lots of different ways to build it. Jim.

[glenn bradley]

I was using plywood to make a support structure because I thought it would be more stable.

I used doubled 3/4" ply on edge to make 1-1/2" by 3" ribs and please do use more than a couple or . . . you'll be back. I framed mine something like this (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=71637&d=1189464141). As discussed in this thread (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=65141)about sagging router tables.

[keith ouellette]

Well it looks like I'm on to the right idea.

What do I do if I do not have a perfect flat work surface for the torsion box to be built on? Is there a way to rectify that problem?

[Rob Price]

how about your TS?

Over at Fine Woodworking, they have a video project, they built an assembly table. I think you can get to it for free, I signed up for a free 14 day trial and I've been downloading articles like a madman... anyways, back on topic.

They guy there has an ingenious way of getting a flat surface, I'll try to summarize.

He starts with two workhorses (you could start with a workbench, even if not flat.) he takes some 2x4s and joints them and planes the edges all to the same thickness (on end, ie 3" wide). The important thing is that they're all the same.

He puts one 2x4 on each workhorse (as the top of the horse) and with shims levels them front to back, I imagine you could do the same on a workbench. then he places the remaining 2x4s side to side on top of the first two and levels those side to side, and then double check they are all level front to back. It's a lot of time and effort, but when you're done you have a perfectly flat surface. He then lays the first skin on top of the framework, and uses it as a bench to start building the webbing. When that's done he puts a skin on top and glues, screws it to the webbing. Then he removes the box, takes the first skin off the 2x4s and then installs that on top of the webbing. Flush trim the edges and you're good to go. Go watch the video, it makes more sense to see it.

What I think I'm going to do is make a torsion box with 3/4 webbing and 1/2 skins, and then another layer of 3/4 ply on top to help reinforce the edge around the base plate opening.

Be sure to leave an area in the webbing big enough to cut out for your router. maybe rough cut out the area in your skins so you can line them up and then flush trim them back to the webbing?

I haven't done this myself yet, so just thinking out loud.

[keith ouellette]

how about your TS?

Over at Fine Woodworking, they have a video project, they built an assembly table. I think you can get to it for free, I signed up for a free 14 day trial and I've been downloading articles like a madman... anyways, back on topic.

They guy there has an ingenious way of getting a flat surface, I'll try to summarize.

He starts with two workhorses (you could start with a workbench, even if not flat.) he takes some 2x4s and joints them and planes the edges all to the same thickness (on end, ie 3" wide). The important thing is that they're all the same.

He puts one 2x4 on each workhorse (as the top of the horse) and with shims levels them front to back, I imagine you could do the same on a workbench. then he places the remaining 2x4s side to side on top of the first two and levels those side to side, and then double check they are all level front to back. It's a lot of time and effort, but when you're done you have a perfectly flat surface. He then lays the first skin on top of the framework, and uses it as a bench to start building the webbing. When that's done he puts a skin on top and glues, screws it to the webbing. Then he removes the box, takes the first skin off the 2x4s and then installs that on top of the webbing. Flush trim the edges and you're good to go. Go watch the video, it makes more sense to see it.

What I think I'm going to do is make a torsion box with 3/4 webbing and 1/2 skins, and then another layer of 3/4 ply on top to help reinforce the edge around the base plate opening.

Be sure to leave an area in the webbing big enough to cut out for your router. maybe rough cut out the area in your skins so you can line them up and then flush trim them back to the webbing?

I haven't done this myself yet, so just thinking out loud.



Thanks rob. I thought of the table saw but it's table isn't big enough.

The idea you posted sounds good to me. If I get what you are saying He used two jointed and planed 2x4's running parallel to one another as rails and then put more jointer and planed 2x4's on top of and perpendicular to the rails. All shimmed to be level.

I'm going to give that a try on top of my work bench.

[Rod Sheridan]

Keith, I'll be the first to tell you that I've never owned a router table, however I do own a shaper.

I have a built in distrust of wood surfaces staying flat, and all you have to do is search this forum for "My router table is sagging" or similar posts.

I have never seen a similar post about shapers.

If I were building one into a table saw, which looks like a very good use of space, fences etc, I would purchase one of those tables from Quality Grinding.

Regards, Rod.

[keith ouellette]

Keith, I'll be the first to tell you that I've never owned a router table, however I do own a shaper.

I have a built in distrust of wood surfaces staying flat, and all you have to do is search this forum for "My router table is sagging" or similar posts.

I have never seen a similar post about shapers.

If I were building one into a table saw, which looks like a very good use of space, fences etc, I would purchase one of those tables from Quality Grinding.

Regards, Rod.

Thats probably the best idea I've heard. I am very sorry that i am to poor to use it. I didn't actually check on a price but just looking at the web site I know I can't afford it. I wish I wasn't poor but I am. I had to find a few palm trees to trim just to get a little extra money for the materials on what I'm building.


OK Rod. I did what you advised for the search and one of the first things I saw was this...

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=98707&highlight=router+table+sagging

Its beautiful but Now I'm certain I can't afford it. I sure do want it though.

[Wes Grass]

My (limited) experience with MDF is that if you start cutting on one face it won't stay flat. Webbing, or a torsion box, sounds like a great idea, but ditch the dadoes.

[Chris Tsutsui]

A related question is how would one make the MDF router top slippery?

Could I try burnishing the top, using wax, or is there a recommended type of paint or sealant I could use on the entire MDF top?

[Rod Sheridan]

Thats probably the best idea I've heard. I am very sorry that i am to poor to use it. I didn't actually check on a price but just looking at the web site I know I can't afford it. I wish I wasn't poor but I am. I had to find a few palm trees to trim just to get a little extra money for the materials on what I'm building.


OK Rod. I did what you advised for the search and one of the first things I saw was this...

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=98707&highlight=router+table+sagging

Its beautiful but Now I'm certain I can't afford it. I sure do want it though.

Thanks Keith, you may be able to get a less expensive option such as a cast iron wing for your saw from your saw manufacturer or Grizzly or GI etc.

One enterprising individual mentioned purchasing a cast iron wing from a scrap saw for very little money...

Regards, Rod.

[Robert Fordham]

My router table is 36 x 24 inches made from 2 pieces 3/4 MDF laminated together. This is attached to a 3/4 ply box 30 x 20. I boxed in the area for the motor and added a vac port out the back of the box. I used wipe on poly to seal the MDF after the glue dried. I added a miter slot, and T track for the fence. This is 2 years old and still as flat as the first day.

I used carnuba wax to make the table slippery.