Thickness for kitchen cabinet shelving

[Bob Johnson2]

What thinkness do you folks use for kitchen cabinet shelves? I've got from 24x48 fixed down to 11x11 adjustable. The ones I'm concerned with is the 24x48 which will be dado'ed on the ends with a couple small blocks at the center from and back of it where the face frame splits the lenght. And a few adjustable upper shelves that are 11x36 +/-. I'm planning on using the prefinished maple ply edged one way or the other.

Thanks
Bob

[Mark Boyette]

3/4" is good for pre-fin. Personally any cabinet over 36" I put a middle divider and split the shelf size. I just all adjustable and don't dado shelves in.
Mark.

[glenn bradley]

As Mark says; put a divider-panel in behind your face frame divider.

[Steve Griffin]

Hi Bob,
One of the best ways to make a kitchen look cheap is to have a sagging shelf. As such, I make certain it never happens.

Most of my kitchen shelves usually are .75" ply or melamine with 3/4" x 1" nosing.

On lower end jobs, I using .75" shelves with 1/4" x .75 edge banding up to 30" span.

30-48" span I would use 1" or 1.25" nosing.

48" to about 60" 1.5"

60" to 96" 2.25 or 2.5".

In your situation, I would never consider not putting on a 1 to 1.5" nose. Fixing in the back would also be a good idea.


-Steve

[Bob Johnson2]

Thanks guys, adding a nose may be the way to go, I really want to avoid sectioning off the cabinet with a divider. I'm taking it that the "nose" you mention runs the length of the shelf.

[Russ Boyd]

I understood you to say on the 48" shelf that you were dadoed in the sides and back with a block at the faceframe. In this situation you have basically created 2 24" shelves and should be more than okay. I do agree with the others that said to use the divider however. Russ

[Chip Lindley]

If your large 48" shelf will hold nick-nacks rather than a complete set of thick stainless chef's cookery, you can skimp! Otherwise, err on the Hefty side! That divider may prevent acute heartbreak later! And leave the shelf adjustable (not dado'd in) Just In Case!

[Bob Johnson2]

I understood you to say on the 48" shelf that you were dadoed in the sides and back with a block at the faceframe. In this situation you have basically created 2 24" shelves and should be more than okay. I do agree with the others that said to use the divider however. Russ

The original idea for the 48" shelf was to dado the sides only. I'd use a small support in the front and back at the mid point, along the lines of the 1/4 shelf supports inserts. If I don't go the dado route and went adjustable, I'd use the 1/4" supports on the ends as well. It's a blind penninsula base, I really can't do a full size divider if that's what the sugestions mean. The 36"ers are for wall cabs.

[Russ Boyd]

In that case, I think you will be fine, but think what Chip said about the load. The center (length) of the shelf would still be suspect.

[Bill White]

For Steve's post to your eyes. He nailed it.
Bill