Problem with Forrest WW2

[Bob Levy]

I've noticed that my Forrest WW2 - (thin kerf) is wobbling a bit. It's about .009 from being flat. You can actually see it wobble as it stops. I checked with another blade and that seemed to be fine, so I'm deducing that somehow the blade got bent.

1- Should I get another blade or just use this one with the slight wobble. It still cuts fine and the teeth are sharp.

2. I'm also wondering how I might have messed it up? Any thoughts? I don't want to make the same mistake again if it's something I'm doing.

It's being used in a DeWalt hybid 746 saw.

Thanks!
Bob

[Tom Veatch]

...1- Should I get another blade or just use this one with the slight wobble. It still cuts fine and the teeth are sharp.
...

The cut is the entire purpose of the saw. If the results you get are acceptable to you, I see no reason to make any changes.

[guy knight]

send it to the manufacturer they will true it up

[Bob Levy]

Thanks so much Guy for the suggestion. I never thought of sending the blade back to get fixed. I knew they could add damaged tips but didn't know they could true a blade. I'll give Forrest a call tomorrow. Great advice.

[Charles Lent]

Have you cleaned the faces of the blade around the center hole as well as the arbor face? Sometimes a piece of sawdust will get between the blade and the face of the arbor causing the blade to not seat flat. Do this before you decide that the blade is the problem. I little piece of sawdust stuck on the blade is all it takes.

Charley

[scott spencer]

If you unplug the saw and spin the blade by hand, does it still wobble then? Many induction motors possess some electrical properties that cause the saw to shimmy a little bit on slow down ....sorry I can't explain it in detail, but it was something to do with an interaction from the capacitors.

I'd think if the blade were truly not flat, it would effect the cut too.

[Byron Trantham]

Lay your blade on the [clean] cast iron table of your saw. Use a feeler gauge to see if there are any gaps between the table surface and the tooth (teeth). If its bent, several teeth in a row will be raised off the table and the feeler gauge will show it.

[Tom Walz]

There is an explanation on hammering by Lowell Freeborn at:

http://www.carbideprocessors.com/hammering_saw_blades.htm

[Peter Kuhlman]

If you send it to Forrest - BE PATIENT!! Mine was shipped back to them and received by them February 11th - was brand new but had a terrible rough cut. Still have not received it back or a replacement. Sure regretting purchasing it now.
Pete

[Chris Padilla]

Thin kerf (TK) blades are more prone to "warping" than full kerf blades. I think Forrest even recommends using a "blade stabilizer" with them.

Why are you using a TK blade in the first place? Do you have an underpowered saw? Just curious.... Was the other blade you checked a TK as well?

You have gotten great advice here...let us know what you find out. :)