Basic Sharpening Information

[Jim Koepke]

Not sure if anyone else gets the Lie-Nielsen news letter, but mine came this morning. There is a link to a .pdf on the basics of sharpening.

http://www.lie-nielsen.com//pdf/Sharpening.pdf

jim

[Tom Adger]

Jim, I didn't note a question in your post, just the link. I went there, and several things jumped out at me. First, it appears that LN makes the assumption that the backs of their products are absolutely flat, so you can just concentrate on the bevel. I have never seen a chisel, or a plane blade that the back is as flat as it should be. I use the scary sharp method, then finish off with a combination 1000/6000 waterstone. Then, I go to the bevel. I use a Veritas Mk II sharpening jig, because I want repeatability in sharpening, and I am not arrogant enough to think I can do it by eye and feel.

[Jim Koepke]

Jim, I didn't note a question in your post, just the link. I went there, and several things jumped out at me. First, it appears that LN makes the assumption that the backs of their products are absolutely flat, so you can just concentrate on the bevel. I have never seen a chisel, or a plane blade that the back is as flat as it should be. I use the scary sharp method, then finish off with a combination 1000/6000 waterstone. Then, I go to the bevel. I use a Veritas Mk II sharpening jig, because I want repeatability in sharpening, and I am not arrogant enough to think I can do it by eye and feel.

Didn't have any question. Just thought folks might like to see one of the many different theories on sharpening.

Like you, I like the backs of my chisel and plane irons flatter than what is usually found on them.

Looking at the .pdf from the link, the second paragraph says, "A sharp edge is the intersection of two polished surfaces, so you need to
work both the bevel and the back of the blade."

There is also more on working the back further down on the second page.

Unlike you, I do not feel there is any arrogance in sharpening by hand. With a hollow grind off of a wheel, the feel is very solid and easy to get right. With a flat bevel, it is a bit more difficult, but not real hard.

My experience is showing me that if there is a nick in the blade, it is faster and easier to put the blade in a holder and go all the way through the stones from 800 - 4000 - 8000. One of these days, a 2000 stone may be acquired. Though the jump from 800 - 4000 does not take too many more strokes to get polished.

If the blade is just starting to get dull, then it can be done quicker by hand on just the 4000 & 8000 stones.

While using a block plane on some end grain earlier, it was noticed that it was not cutting as well as yesterday and this morning. Popped out the blade, wet the stones, gave the blade about 10 strokes on each stone, put it back in the plane and was making "butterfly wings" in less than five minutes. There is a small bench in my shop set up just for sharpening.

It seems the only days something doesn't need sharpening is the days I don't get into the shop, then if there are tomatoes to slice, one of the kitchen knives needs sharpening. My wife doesn't even appreciate my efforts because she can sharpen knives just as well. She will even do it while watching TV.

Though one time I took a couple of knives into the shop to sharpen them on my stones and she got on me because they were "too sharp." One of them was slicing into the cutting board. Some times it is difficult to please a woman.

There are many ways to get a sharp edge. What works for me may not work for others. What works for you, is the right way to do the job.

jim

[Derek Cohen]

By coincidence, I posted an article on sharpening in Fine Woodworking's The Woodworking Life": http://finewoodworking.taunton.com/item/8521/a-sharpening-strategy-beyond-a-sharp-edge

The relevance of this article is that I examine the impact of microbevels, which forms one of the recommended steps in the LN/David Charlesworth methodology (in the newsletter).

What I have attempted to do in my article is draw your attention to what lies beyond sharpening, that is, thinking ahead to when you will need to re-sharpen the edge. What then? What you did to get a sharp edge, is that going to make the next step easier or more difficult? Will you have to re-grind to re-sharpen? Or can you restore the blade to a working sharpness with minimal effort and time?

The microbevel has a place in sharpening, but think very carefully about when you want to use it.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Jim Koepke]

I do not use micro bevels on purpose. Most of mine are unintended.

My power sharpening system came with literature promoting the micro bevel. I suspect it is because the abrasive carrying disks tend to have different geometries with the different weight of abrasive sheets attached.

My technique is to compensate for this misalignment. The manufacture's method is to promote it as a feature.

Different facets of the same diamond.

jim