Bit the bullet (Byrd Shelix heads)

[Tom Veatch]

The wife painted a picture of a friend's dog lying in front of their old barn, and in a not-so-lucid moment, I offered to make a frame for the painting out of wood reclaimed from the barn. What makes that somewhat poignant is that the dog was left in our care last month while the friends were on a Caribbean cruise. While they were gone we had to have the dog put down. Very difficult decision as the dog had been my friend's constant companion for almost 17 years.

To further extend a story already too long, while preparing the wood for the frame, hidden nails took out the knives on both jointer and planer. Removed all visible nails, but in neither case were these nails visible at the surface. Oh well, time to get those Shelix heads I've been drooling over for the last few months. Ordered them from Holbren's web site earlier today.

To get to the questions (finally!!!). First, what have I gotten myself into as far as pulling the existing heads and replacing them (Jet JJ-6 Jointer and Jet JPM-13 Planer)? Anything specific that I need to be wary of, any special tools required, or recommended parts replacements while the tools are spread across the shop floor?

Second Question. Any recommendations for a good metal detector?

[Don Abele]

Tom, when I put the Byrd head on my Jet JJ-6 it was very quick and easy. The hardest part was pulling the bearings off (I did not buy new bearings). I used a set of Harbor Frieght bearing pullers - worked like a charm. To seat the new bearings on, I used an impact-grade deep socket and a hammer. I set the head spindle through one of my bench dog holes and beat the bearing on, flipped and repeated. The whole process from start to finish was an hour, maybe two at most. The improvement was drastic. And unfortunately, no, I did not take any pictures of the process (but did smack myself in the head afterwards for not thinking of it sooner).

Can't advise you on the planer, but I wouldn't think it would be all that more difficult (though may involve a little more disassembly/reassembly time).

As for a metal detector, I use a lumber wizard and it has never failed me. Think I paid about $100 for it, but well worth the insurance of never having to go through the pain and agony of hitting any metal with a blade.

Be well,

Doc

[Jeff Willard]

My experience pretty closely mirrors Don's. I have a Powermatic 54A, which, for all intents and purposes, is a Jet JJ-6, all gussied up. Only roadblock I ran into was the fact that the bottom of the arms of my gear puller didn't have enough clearance between the bearing and the head. Two screwdrivers fixed that soon enough. Whole process only took me a little more than an hour.

[Gary Herrmann]

Agree. My 8" General jointer was straightforward. The General planer was a bit of a pain because it has a oil-lubed gear box, so I basically had to take the entire thing apart. Buy a bearing puller and a impact grade deep socket as Don suggests if you want to reuse the bearings. Not sure of the price comparison between that and buying new bearings though.

[Rod Sheridan]

The last thing I would do is re-use the bearings.

You've spent all that money and time on the new cutterhead what's a few dollars more for new bearings?

Regards, Rod.

[Tom Veatch]

Rod, I understand that you're recommending discarding the bearings for both machines and replacing with new. I'm constitutionally disenclined to discard usable items (which is one reason my shop is such a cluttered mess), but I can see the point of replacing them as long as I'm that deep in the abyss.

Thanks for the idea, I'll check and see what it'd take to get replacements. I'm thinking two options, repair parts from Jet, or equivalents from an industrial supply like Graingers, MSC, McMaster-Carr, etc.

[Trace Beard]

Rod, I understand that you're recommending discarding the bearings for both machines and replacing with new. I'm constitutionally disenclined to discard usable items (which is one reason my shop is such a cluttered mess), but I can see the point of replacing them as long as I'm that deep in the abyss.

Thanks for the idea, I'll check and see what it'd take to get replacements. I'm thinking two options, repair parts from Jet, or equivalents from an industrial supply like Graingers, MSC, McMaster-Carr, etc.

I purchased new bearings along w/ the byrd cutter from grizzly, IIRC they ran about $15 and s/h was probably 1/2 the cost.

[Andy Pratt]

The larger version of the lumber wizard works well, it's never failed to detect even the smallest metal item (staple) and has vibration/sound and/or light options, so it's very easy to notice the reading. Gives false readings when you bump it against the wood, but I'd rather have that than missing metal, I'm very satisfied with it. I think it's the "lumber wizard 3" if I remember correctly. It's already saved me one blade on a broken piece of a screw imbedded in the center of a board, completely invisible otherwise.

[Tom Veatch]

Well, it looks like that's 2 favorable mentions of the Lumber Wizard. Thanks, Andy and Doc. A little shopping brought up Tyler Tool at $70 which is appreciably less than the $100-$105 seen elsewhere. I guess with the two Shelix heads and metal detector, it'll be rice and beans for supper for awhile. But, I like rice and beans, so that's OK.

Thanks to all who've replied, you've all been a great help.

[Jim McFarland]

If a Powermatic 54A is same as your Jet: I bought new bearings at a local auto parts store. I took the old head to the store and at one glance the clerk said "Oh, those are xyzzy (whatever # he said) bearings -- the replacements we sell are actually a better quality bearing." He could have been making it all up -- but the bearings worked like a champ.

[Tom Veatch]

I checked the parts manuals for the two machines, and they both use the same bearing set. One of the manuals gave the bearing types, 6202ZZ and 6203ZZ, which are standard designations for metric sized, shielded, pre-lubed bearing. Ordered a couple of sets for about $15 total plus shipping. Rod was right. The expense is too minimal to not go ahead and replace them while the machines are torn apart.

I've got another stick of that reclaimed lumber to break down, but I think I'm going to hold off at least until the metal detector arrives. I expect the heads to be the last thing delivered. Holbren's site listed delivery for them as "Stock to 4 weeks". With my luck, instead of being pulled from stock, they'll be dropshipped after Byrd fabricates them.

Might just have to scary sharp my plane irons and join the Neander ranks for a month or so. Might just be fun. I do love the sound and feel of a sharp plane slicing a translucent shaving. I'm retired, durn it! To heck with schedules and promised dates.

[William M Johnson]

Tom:
If you are into instant gratificaiton you can probably get the bearings here in town at BRC Bearing on Washington. They are very price competitive. Jim Fleagel is the guy that owns it, good guy

[Don Abele]

Tom, you'll love the upgrade - here's an early congrats on it!

As for the bearings, I agree...why not spend the "few" extra dollars (considering the cost of the heads) and get new bearings. In my case, I didn't use the wisdom of the Creek and when the head came in, I had no choice but to reuse the old bearings.

Well...I did have a choice...I could have waited to get new bearings in, but I just couldn't let that sweet Byrd head sit in the box that long :D So I needed some instant gratification and just reused the bearings. I've not had any problems with it since.

Please be sure and update us after you get them installed and start making dust with them.

Be well,

Doc

[Tom Veatch]

Thanks, Don.

Heads arrived today and just finished installing and retuning the machines.

Noise Level:

You guys all said they would be quieter. The decrease in noise level with the jointer is remarkable, but in the planer, is unbelievable. Before, it was deep throated bull roaring that was almost painful. Now, the cyclone in the next room is louder. Changed to a higher pitched whine instead of the roar, but much much better. Still advisable to wear hearing protection.

Cut Quality:

OK, noise is one thing, but how do they cut? Marvelously! Ran a piece of gnarly grained walnut through the planer. Would have expected major tearout with the old staight bladed heads. Saw a little, but had to look really close to find it. Ran it across the jointer the wrong way and would have expected at least a little tearout with the old heads. Couldn't find any with this head.

Couldn't tell much difference in overall smoothness of the cut before and after with the jointer. The planer may not give quite as slick/smooth cuts as did the straight knives when they were new, sharp, and near perfectly set. May take a couple of sanding swipes more before finishing, but not in the least disappointing.

Installation:

Jointer wasn't too bad. Drop the tables down to the limit of their travel, remove the cutter guard, fence, belt guard, belt, two bolts, and the head lifts out. Install bearings on the new head and reverse the process. Not something I'd want to have to do every day, but not too bad.

However, as far as the planer is concerned, let it be enough to say that the next time that planer head gets removed, it'll be somebody else doing it. I'm not going to detail the procedure because it'd take a book. Of the total time required, it was probably about a 5 to 1 ratio, planer to jointer.

Like the man said, "No pictures, it didn't happen!". Well, it must not have happened, then. I didn't think about taking pictures of the process until the planer was almost back together. Start over and take photographs as you go, you say? See above immediately following "the next time that planer head gets removed..."

If you're in the market for Byrd heads, I recommend you go through Holbren. Brian was super through the whole deal. Excellent service!!

[Don Abele]

Tom, I have to say it...

"See...I told you so!!!" :D

Congratulations again on the upgrade.

Be well,

Doc

(oh, by the way, I never took pics of my upgrade either - and the camera was sitting on the bench the whole time)

[Andy Bardowell]

Have a look at these Tom, I have the small one and it works great for most applications. I'm very paranoid about re-claimed lumber and very rarely use it, you were stuck here though, turned out to be very costly.

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=45125&cat=1,240

[Benjamin Dahl]

Andy, thanks. that is a good price.
Ben

[Fred Belknap]

Well, it looks like that's 2 favorable mentions of the Lumber Wizard. Thanks, Andy and Doc. A little shopping brought up Tyler Tool at $70 which is appreciably less than the $100-$105 seen elsewhere. I guess with the two Shelix heads and metal detector, it'll be rice and beans for supper for awhile. But, I like rice and beans, so that's OK.

Thanks to all who've replied, you've all been a great help.
I have the larger Wizard ( I think it is III) and it is kind of temperamental. Every time I use it I have to calibrate it and it is advertised to find metal five inch deep, don't believe it.

[Scott Rollins]

When installing bearings on a shaft the most imporant rule to follow is:do not allow the setting tool (a deep well socket or otherwise) to hit the outer race. You must press all forces into the inner race only. If the outer race is impacted the bearing can be compromised. The single row ball bearings are not designed for thrust loads that can be caused by hitting the outer race. Just a little advise from a spindle rebuilder:).