Resawing 2" stock

[Prashun Patel]

I just got a 13"x40" slab of walnut that's 2" thick.
I'd like to have it resawn into bookmatched 7/8" pieces. Is this an easy enough operation to do or will I end up under 7/8"?

I've no experience with resawing, so I'd have it done at a real mill.

[David Christopher]

Shawn, thats a easy enough task...I bet if you would ask one of the creekers near by would do it for you if you dont have the resourses

[Tom Veatch]

Hard to say with 100% certainty.

If the stock is a true 2", you can lose as much as 1/4" to the saw kerf and cleanup and still have 7/8" left in each piece. If the cut is straight, true and on centerline, the stock isn't too badly cupped or bowed, and movement after the cut isn't too drastic, you have an excellent chance of meeting your goal. The less critical the 7/8" dimension, the better your chances. Probably best to talk with whoever you want to do the cut with the stock in hand.

[Jamie Buxton]

I wouldn't count on getting 7/8". The issue is that the wood may have built-in stresses in it, so when it is cut apart, the two halves may have twist or cup or bow or some combination. You'll likely have to reflatten the boards. With boards 13" wide, it won't take much twist or cup to eat into your thickness budget.

[Jim Kountz]

I just did some walnut that was a hair under 2" right about 1 15/16 actually and was able to get 7/8" with no problem. The piece was about 10" wide and almost 5 feet long. Did it on my Grizz G513X2

[Rick Fisher]

To bad your not on the Island Shaun, I would gladly cut it for you.


Later..

Okay.. your not the guy I know in Vancouver.. lol..

Wrong Island..

But.. if you decide to travel 4000 miles, to Vancouver Island.. I will gladly cut it for you.. lol..

[Prashun Patel]

Thanks, I appreciate that. I'm happy with 3/4" finished. I meant 7/8" rough to give me a little play.
It's for a table top, so even if I end up with something thinner than ideal, I'm happy to reinforce it underneath somehow....

Man, what a pain. I've been calling around. The job's too small for most mills.
Wish I had a friend with a large enough bsaw.

[Joe Cunningham]

If you can find a Creeker with the bandsaw size to help that would be great, but you could have this done tonight using a hybrid-neander method:

Sharpen up a rip saw and resaw by hand. You can ease your cut by taking some off at the table saw, maybe 1 1/2-2" each side--the saw kerf from the table saw will guide your hand saw, so even if you aren't that adept you can't mess it up too bad. Then it is just a matter of caloric energy.

Clean up with a hand-plane, assuming the slab is already jointed/planed before resawing. I guess you could run it through a planer, but I don't have one, so I've never done it that way.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=104714