URGENT: Adapting a PM66 to 120v power

[John Sanford]

Okay, what are my possible options for adapting a PM66 to use 120v power? I may be able to lay my hands on one really, really cheap. If I can adapt it, then I'll be jumping on the opportunity. If not, I'll have to decide whether or not to get it and either keep it until I can get 240v, or resell it later.

[Rick Fisher]

If it has a 3hp motor, you will need a differnt motor.

The switch could work on 110V as the new motor would be 15 amp, roughly the same as a 3hp 220V.

[Rick Christopherson]

If it is cheap, then get it, but you cannot convert it to 120 volts.

[Rick Fisher]

If it is cheap, then get it, but you cannot convert it to 120 volts.


... why could he not put a 1.5hp motor on it and power it like a contractor saw?

I am thinking that there is something I am missing.. I have never done it.

[Jason Whitaker]

Why convert???.... I reckon putting a 220v outlet in will be just as easy, if not easier and probably cheaper than buying a quality new, lower HP motor. 220 is not difficult or complicated if you take your time and do some proper research.

[Rick Fisher]

Why convert???.... I reckon putting a 220v outlet in will be just as easy, if not easier and probably cheaper than buying a quality new, lower HP motor. 220 is not difficult or complicated if you take your time and do some proper research.


Now.. that is a logical answer.. ;) (with I had said it)..

But it wasnt the question.. .:D

[Tom Veatch]

... why could he not put a 1.5hp motor on it and power it like a contractor saw?

I am thinking that there is something I am missing.. I have never done it.

I think what Rick was saying is that the motor on the PM66 is not a dual voltage motor. Therefore that motor cannot be converted to run on a lower voltage. It is a certainty that, with enough money and effort thrown at it, the motor could be replaced with a different, lower powered motor that would run on 120v.

It would make more economic sense to run a 240v circuit and leave the motor (and power) of the saw as is.

[Brian Kerley]

Instead of spending a bunch of time installing a new, less powerful motor, I'd go get some metal conduit, a box, a 30A breaker, an outlet, plus wire for a 30A circuit and run everything yourself back to the general area of your breaker. Then, hire an electrician to hook it up to your breaker. You don't want to gimp a saw like that. Now if it's a 3 phase machine, that's a different story.

[Jim O'Dell]

Of course, we are all guessing it has the original motor on it. To be sure, go look at the motor plate to verify if it is 110/220 dual voltage single phase, 220 single phase, or 220 three phase. That information will determine the answer you need to hear. Jim.

[Brian McDermaid]

Make sure its doesn't need 3 phase power... Due to the economic armageddon there are quite a few mom/pop cabinet shops in my area going out of business. Its common to see 3phase PM66's in the classifieds for ~$500 that don't sell :(.

[Ed Bamba]

Okay, what are my possible options for adapting a PM66 to use 120v power? I may be able to lay my hands on one really, really cheap. If I can adapt it, then I'll be jumping on the opportunity. If not, I'll have to decide whether or not to get it and either keep it until I can get 240v, or resell it later.

John, I just called the number on CL and a voice message states that all items they listed are sold. Hope you were lucky enough to get it. I saw the listing last night and lost some sleep thinking about it. I already have a TS, albeit a Craftsman ZCS, but it works well for me right now. I would have been at their door step if I had access to 220V. Holding off for a spindle sander or edge sander.

Ed

[Chris Padilla]

Whether or not you got the saw, another option is to seek out your dryer outlet: it'll be 240 V (and probably 30 A) and will handle the 3 hp TS with no problems. I did this for a little while with my 3 hp Grizzly...worked like a champ.

[Rick Christopherson]

I'd go get some metal conduit, a box, a 30A breaker, an outlet, plus wire for a 30A circuit ....Why does everyone always assume that every 240 volt tool require a 30-amp circuit? Does anyone ever bother to do the calculations or research first? http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/images/smilies/sad/club.gif
http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/images/smilies/sad/blowup.gif

[Chip Lindley]

Indeed, ALL 240V motors do not need a 30A circuit! My PM66 3hp 240V motor draws 15A FLA. A 20A circuit would certainly handle this.

BUT...If ONE 240V circuit will be run at considerable expense, why not make it usable for a 3hp machine AND a 2hp DC?

Or, let's put in a 50A circuit to handle a 5hp drum sander and a 3hp DC!

A 30A circuit makes good sense by giving a little head room. Almost as good sense as running a complete 100A BRANCH breaker box to the shop area.

[John Sanford]

Sigh...

Okay folks, here's the skinny:

An approximately 3 year old PM 66 showed up on Craigslist here last night at 7pm or so. I didn't see it until around 11pm, so I waited until this morning to call. Missed it.

It was listed for $100 :eek:

Converting the saw in some fashion is my only option. Running 220 is simple, it doesn't scare me at all, given that I completely wired up my last shop, and undoubtedly would be cheaper than the alternatives.

However, I'm in a rented townhome, with gas appliances. No tapping off the dryer or oven. I may investigate dropping a 220v circuit from the panel, but am not hopeful that the owner will allow it.

'Tis a moot point now, but it was a nice dream while it lasted. :D

[Sherzod Niazov]

Sigh...

Okay folks, here's the skinny:

An approximately 3 year old PM 66 showed up on Craigslist here last night at 7pm or so. I didn't see it until around 11pm, so I waited until this morning to call. Missed it.

It was listed for $100 :eek:

Converting the saw in some fashion is my only option. Running 220 is simple, it doesn't scare me at all, given that I completely wired up my last shop, and undoubtedly would be cheaper than the alternatives.

However, I'm in a rented townhome, with gas appliances. No tapping off the dryer or oven. I may investigate dropping a 220v circuit from the panel, but am not hopeful that the owner will allow it.

'Tis a moot point now, but it was a nice dream while it lasted. :D


I saw the 100$ PM66 too and maaan I never dialed that fast before lol. But, i'm not the lucky one this time.
BTW, at our previous rental home I made up some 220 extension cords and used the dryer outlet, worked fine. Recently we moved into another rental, and there was no 220 circuits at all besides the AC, but the owner let me install a 220 20A outlet in the garage, I had to hire an electrician ofcourse. it was a 20-minute 165$ job!!! Maybe I should change careers??

Happy woodworking.

[Steve LeGrue]

The manufacturers recommend no less than 20A 220V, preferably 30A. The 3 HP motor pulls all of 20 A at startup. Also, I have seen several 3HP motors toated at 20A, never at 30A.

[Tom Veatch]

...The 3 HP motor pulls all of 20 A at startup. ...

Probably even a lot more, but you don't size breakers that way. A functioning residential type circuit breaker will tolerate far more than it's rating for the short time necessary to accommodate the start surge.

They are not instantaneous trip devices as the old screw-in fuses may have been. The higher the overload, the shorter the trip delay and vice-versa. I know for a fact that one of the 20 amp breakers in my shop will pass 44 amps for as much 30 seconds or more before tripping.

[Bill Petersen]

Sigh...

Okay folks, here's the skinny:

An approximately 3 year old PM 66 showed up on Craigslist here last night at 7pm or so. I didn't see it until around 11pm, so I waited until this morning to call. Missed it.

It was listed for $100 :eek:

Converting the saw in some fashion is my only option. Running 220 is simple, it doesn't scare me at all, given that I completely wired up my last shop, and undoubtedly would be cheaper than the alternatives.

However, I'm in a rented townhome, with gas appliances. No tapping off the dryer or oven. I may investigate dropping a 220v circuit from the panel, but am not hopeful that the owner will allow it.

'Tis a moot point now, but it was a nice dream while it lasted. :D

John,
I almost had a seizure:eek: when I saw that PM66 for $100, but it was sold by the time I called. I'm sure that was a deal that won't come around again any time soon.
Bill

[Chip Lindley]

Don't DARE CRY over missing that $100 PM66! Ya' Jus' Never Know what the buyer wound up with! It could have been in a fire, or under water, OR stolen! Or, sold by an irrate soon-to-be *Ex* spouse unbeknownst to the party of the 2nd part. The list of negative scenarios goes on and on.

The *lucky* buyer may indeed have gotten the deal of this new century! But, all too often the old addage still holds true! "If it Sounds Too Good To Be True, It Probably Is!"