Waterlox problems....or problems with the finisher...

[Greg Cuetara]

So it is the middle of winter up here in Maine right now. We just got 18" of snow and have about 48" on the ground right now.

I am in the process of trying to put a finish on a crib I am building. I started out by spraying 2 coats of de-waxed shellac. My top coat is waterlox.

I have things set up in my basement right now. I have windows open and fans running to try and keep air movement and keep the smell / odors etc. out of the house. So far I have done a pretty good job with the odors but....the finish has some little bumps in it and is not completly smooth. I am thinking that dust is getting kicked up into the finish while it is curing.

Is there anything I can do to smooth things out and not ruin the finish. Can I wet sand the finish or just sand with 600 grit? Do I have to put a coat on after I sand things out? Can I just use steel wool or an abrasive pad similar to steel wool?

Maybe I am just being picky here because it is not really noticible unless you run your hand over the smooth portions.

Thanks for any help.
Greg

[mike holden]

Greg,
I have used waterlox and the final finish was wax applied with a scotchbrite pad to knock down the nibs (the rough spots you are feeling), left a very smooth, tactile surface. If you do not want to wax it, then you can use a fine sandpaper, but you will have apply another coat of waterlox (and *maybe* sand the nibs off that, and apply another coat, repeat - until you are satisfied)
Waterlox, like most varnishes, dries slowly - so dust in the air can fall onto the surface and create the nibs. Nature of the beast.
Mike

[Prashun Patel]

That cold Maine air is probably also retarding the dry time, which gives dust more time to settle.

I'd let the top cure for a couple days since yr in the cold.
I'd abrade the top with 320 or 400.
After removing all the sanding dust, I'd brush on a new coat on the broad surfaces with the windows CLOSED and the fan off. Let those surfaces dry. On the narrower surfaces, it's not so much of an issue, so you can lay on with the windows open on those.

Just my 2c.

[Howard Acheson]

Before your final coat, sand the surface lightly with 320 paper. Vacuum the item and the surrounding area. Get out of the area for a couple of hours. Change your clothes before going back in. When you go back into the finishing area try not to stir up the dust. Wipe the project with a rag lightly dampened with mineral spirits to remove any dust that settled on it. Now, apply you final coat as carefully ass you can and again leave the area for a couple of hours. This should minimize any dust getting on the project.

[Greg Cuetara]

Thanks for the ideas guys.

I wouldn't mind trying the wax idea but it is for a crib so there is the potential of the child chewing on the finished product. Is this a problem?

I will probably end up sanding to 320 and then putting a final coat on.

Greg

[mike holden]

Greg,
both beeswax and shellac are food safe.
Remember wax lips? Sold as candy? Did you ever get honey with a piece of honeycomb -then fought to be the one who got to chew it?
Shellac is used for medicines, gives a shine to tablets and is used to make the "timed release" bits work (by using varying thicknesses of shellac coating)

As regards "food safe finishes" - read some Bob Flexner on the subject - a real sanity check.

Mike