Which set of calipers/dial indicator to buy??

[Steve Goetz]

I recently purchased my first cabinet saw (a delta unisaw) and was looking for a set of either digital calipers and/or dial indicator to adjust my saw. What brands would you consider?
Which one should I use to fine tune my saw, dial indicator or calipers? I also have an 8" DJ-20 jointer and and 14" Delta BS that I need to adjust. I've been to Woodcraft and found a couple of different brands of calipers with different features and also found a Kobalt brand set at Lowe's. I doubt that I will use these tools for much other than to set up my tools, so I don't want to spend alot of money on them. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Steve

[Bruce Wrenn]

A set from Harbor Freight will serve all your needs. HF often has the dial indicator on sale for $7.99., and the same for a magnetic base. Both their dial and digital calipers regularly go on sale for less than $20 each. I like the dial calipers better, as they don't take batteries. Enco (use-enco.com)also has dial indicators and calipers on sale regularly. From Enco, you can also get a set of different points to fit your dial indicator. Enco often has a complete set (magnetic base, dial indicator, and points on sale.

[Brad Patch]

An inexpensive indicator is essential for Jointer and Table Saw setup. A dial caliper is an inexpensive tool which I highly recommend. I'm familiar with decimal equivalents so an indicator graduated in thousands is perfect for me.

[george wilson]

Inexpensive indicators may be o.k. for setting up a table saw. More expensive ones are better. They ,for example,may take less force to move the needle than cheaper types.This results in truer readings. I'm trying to keep this simple,and I'm sounding simple !! It depends upon what your needs are in the range of precision you are working in. It becomes more important when machining metal to close tolerances. I have indicators that read in hundred thousanths.You don't need that,and couldn't even use that unless you are producing precision ground surfaces with high class machines.

You probably would throw away a cheap indicator that went bad. If you expect any customer support,at least go to Grizzly,or Enco. I usually deal with MSC,but I know people there.

Keep your dial caliper WELL AWAY from dust or chips. I usually lay mine down face down when using it around the mill or metal lathe. There are tiny racks and tiny gears easily dislodged by small trash.

[Sonny Edmonds]

I'm with George about this.
You really don't need certified measuring instruments for woodworking and set ups, but it is really nice to know that your measuring tools are above reproach.
That said, I use the most accurate tooling I can afford. But depending on what you are trying to set up, you may not need that sort of accuracy to get excellent results.
You can check your new Uni with a Woodies Bar (http://home.earthlink.net/%7Epie/images/woodysbar/woodysbar.htm) and a feeler gauge.
I have and use a Smart Level (http://www.amazon.com/M-D-Building-Products-92346-SmartTool/dp/B0000225AL/ref=pd_cp_hi_1?pf_rd_p=413863601&pf_rd_s=center-41&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B0009H5H7K&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1MXBBW1CTTDN4CW8ZECW) for tables and fences. And get one of these magnetic cradles (http://www.amazon.com/M-D-Building-Products-92395-Magnetic/dp/B0009H5H7K/ref=sr_1_18?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1235531095&sr=1-18) for the module.
You could get a better deal by getting the long level (47 1/2") with the module already in it, (http://www.amazon.com/M-D-Building-Products-92296-Electronic/dp/B0000225AN/ref=pd_bbs_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1235531057&sr=8-1) and just get the magnetic cradle so you could move the module from one to the other.
Once you have things plumb (zero the module to the piece of equipment), the tool can do any number of critical adjustments to within 0.1 degree.
1/10th of a degree.
I got my joiner tables to the extreme of accuracy of being co-planar.
Set a fence to a desired angle? Zero the tool to the table, then set the fence angle to within 1/10th of a degree.
Probably one of the best set up tools in my shop.
So, you can see I use the best of the old ways, and the best of the new ways to set things in my shop. ;)
I have trimmed magnets glued on mine, but recommend the magnetic cradle they make. They didn't have the cradles available when I got my module. :)

[Brent Leonard]

use your miter guage with a straight steel bar or rod clamped to the face of it. Put one edge against a tooth at the front of your blade, and then check against the same tooth rotated to the rear of the table. Use a simple feeler guage to measure any difference.

once you have the blade perfectly parralell (or extremely close to perfect) to the miter slot, do the same measuring against the fence along its length.

I refuse to buy most any HF tools, as I've thrown away plenty of their stuff and just finally had enough a few years ago. The measuring tools they sell scare the heck out of me and I don't desire to spend Starrett money for a dial indicator considering I get awesome cuts doing what I'm already doing with my old school simple method.

[Lee Schierer]

I had a good dial caliper that I used in my shop. After a while it srated getting flakey due to sawdust getting into the gearing. I finally replaced it with a cheap digital set from HF. I've had that set in teh shop for over 5 years now and it still works fine. The batteries last a good long time if you remember to turn off the gauge after each measurement.

A dial indicator is far easier to use for table saw setup than a set of calipers will be. The magnetic base won't stick to an sluminum fence or miter guage. I simply mounted my dial indicator on a block of wood with a wood screw so it wouldn't move and clamped the block of wood to the fence on my miter gauge. As long as your readings are repeatable, it doesn't matter what you paid for the measuring tool.