Brett Nelson
02-24-2009, 7:07 PM
When I rough framed my staircase, I used a 2x4 spacer between the wall framing and the stringer. This gave me a 1.5" gap for drywall and finish stringer. I thought that would be plenty. My designer then comes in and decides that I need shadow boxes/or raised panel wall frames that follow down the staircase. As that goes behind the baseboard/finish stringer, that adds another 3/4" to the finish material thickness. There goes my hopes and dreams of not having to cut the finish stringers.
So now that I have to cut them to go on top of the treads anyway, I'm wondering which method is preferable. Right now the stairs are framed in rough lumber, and the treads are bullnose PB tread material. They are 4' wide and will have a 3' wide carpet runner up the center. Walnut false treads on either side and painted maple ply risers.
I could cut the finish stringer to sit on top of the rough treads first and then butt up the stained false treads.
I could install the false treads first and then cut the finish stringer to overlap it.
I 'm leaning toward #1 since I wouldn't have to incorporate the bullnose into the finish stringer. But #2 would give the look of a housed stringer, and I was wondering if that is considered the proper way to do it. ???
So now that I have to cut them to go on top of the treads anyway, I'm wondering which method is preferable. Right now the stairs are framed in rough lumber, and the treads are bullnose PB tread material. They are 4' wide and will have a 3' wide carpet runner up the center. Walnut false treads on either side and painted maple ply risers.
I could cut the finish stringer to sit on top of the rough treads first and then butt up the stained false treads.
I could install the false treads first and then cut the finish stringer to overlap it.
I 'm leaning toward #1 since I wouldn't have to incorporate the bullnose into the finish stringer. But #2 would give the look of a housed stringer, and I was wondering if that is considered the proper way to do it. ???