Basic Cuts

[Ken Higginbotham]

I was tinkering around with my new saw trying to get a little practice making tennon joints by building some door frames and run into some issues. I made one by ripping down some 2x4 material which had a slight warp (very slight). As you can see one end had a pretty bad fit. So I did a frame with some more stable (and straighter) material and the joints were a lot better. So from this is it ok to assume that the wood better be dead straight or the joint may end up pretty bad or are there some tricks to this? I made sure (I thought) to hold the work real tight to the table and guide and adjusted the blade and fence for the cuts pretty accurate...

[mike holden]

Wood needs to be flat before cutting and fitting joints.

Thats why the big to-do about letting wood acclimate to your shop, rough cutting and acclimate some more, then cut to size, fit and join without delay.

Wood moves, controlling the movement is what sound construction is about.
Mike

[Ken Higginbotham]

I suppose if I intend to rip down 2x material I'll need to build a jig to rip it dead straight?

[Josiah Bartlett]

I use featherboards to hold the work against the fence and/or table when I am doing stuff like that. Even with pretty straight lumber it really helps eliminate error. I also use Norm's trick of cutting the groove by running it one way and flipping it over and re-running it to center the groove on the stock.

[Ken Higginbotham]

Yeah thats the way I did it. Then I guess you cut the the tennon width to fit...?

[glenn bradley]

I suppose if I intend to rip down 2x material I'll need to build a jig to rip it dead straight?

No jig required. If your material is acclimated, joint a face and an edge. Place the jointed face down on the tablesaw and the jointed edge against the fence and rip to width, then plane to thickness. Now you can cut your grooves and tenons so that they will match up as your material should be square.

If I am trying to slot a non-straight board, I will use a router with a small base. The small footprint follows the "hills and valleys" to keep the slot the same height from the reference surface even though it is less than true. A table saw wants to keep things straight and true. He doesn't deal well with things that are not ;-)

Your particle board joint looks good so your technique is fine; the material is fighting you.

[Prashun Patel]

The featherboard is there to hold a STRAIGHT piece against the fence. If you try to muscle a warped piece with a featherboard, it can uncurl after the blade and bind and/or kick back.

You really want to joint one edge straight before ripping to width. You can certainly make a jointing jig for your tsaw which essentially clamps the target piece to one with a known straight edge. That edge rides along the fence and gives you a clean face on the target stock.

I also wouldn't ever use a hold down on the fence to keep a bowed piece tight to the table.

Holddowns and featherboards are to prevent a straight pc from rising or twisting from yr push stick - not to CORRECT a warped or bowed piece.

[John Thompson]

Oh my golly, Mrs. Higganbotham... Ken's gonna be begging for a jointer soon. :D

You got some good advise here Ken.. you can't wave a magic wand unfortunately and straighten a board. It will require some method as it needs to be straight in the short run to make things end up straight in the long run..

Regards and good luck, neighbor....

Sarge..

[Tony Bilello]

I assume you are relatively new at woodworking by your question. By the looks of your particle board joint, I can also assume that you know what you are doing.
If you want to improve your techniques and skills, keep practicing with particle board or MDF. Pine is probably the worse thing to practice with. It is incredibility unstable and hard on your blades. When you rip it, it will want to curl up or pinch your blade and knots are hard on blades also. If you practice with particle board and things dont work at least you know its you. With pine you never know if its you or the wood.
If you can consistantly make good joints on the PB, you are ready for hardwood and furniture.
Have fun

[Ken Higginbotham]

Thanks for the feed back. Based on the particle board joints I figured I must be on the right track. I went to great paints to set up the cuts making sure the blade height and distance to the fence was dead on. Having just bought the new saw I don't think Ms Higginbotham would warm up to a jointer anytime soon :)

Would one of the table top jointer work for pieces the size of door panels? I think I've seen them on CL for under $300

I have several ideas for a ripping jig. I like the one about clamping the pc to a straight edge. I was thinking of a gizmo that clamps to the fence that basically makes the fence and table surfaces longer.

[Tony Bilello]

If you have a good table saw and a good blade you wont need a joiner. The cut, even using a general purpose blade, should be good enough for gluing up.
Attached is a "Straight Line Rip" jig I use for short pieces - 5" or less. This jig is also used for cutting angles, as shown in photos.
I have another jig (Different style) I use for pieces 10' long.
http://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=104592

[Ken Higginbotham]

Thanks for the idea Tony. Did my idea about extending the fence and table make sense? Seems if you had a long fence/table you could simply slide the work down it, cutting the convex side first then the other side...?

[Tony Bilello]

Thanks for the idea Tony. Did my idea about extending the fence and table make sense? Seems if you had a long fence/table you could simply slide the work down it, cutting the convex side first then the other side...?
Your idea of extending the fence is a good one, however you would need about 14' of fence and table to cut a 5' piece because with the concave side ( 2 point contact) against the fence, the workpiece would have to maintain this 2 point contact with the fence the entire trip in front of and beyond the blade.
This one here is 'portable' and serves the same purpose. I wont be at my shop today thus I cant take pics so I made this sketch with my 'Rembrandt like' skills. This jig could be made of Particle Board, MDF or plywood. I prefer cabinet grade plywood because it is straight, flat and much much lighter than PB or MDF.

[Ken Higginbotham]

Thanks for the ideas Tony. I think I'll take off work and go try some of these ideas out - :)

[Tony Bilello]

"I think I'll take off work and go try some of these ideas out - :)"

I hope you are serious, LOL.
We generally dont give ourselves enough play time.

Keep on thinking. Eventually you will come up with some good stuff. I make jigs for just about everything. I have limited space and a limited tool budget.
If you dont own an air compressor, consider putting it high up on your wish list. An air nailer could be one of your most used tools, especially for temporary set-ups and jigs.
BTW, what Table saw do you own?

[Ken Higginbotham]

I bought a Steel City 3Hp cabinet saw. I had been working with a $98 craftsman :eek:

What about you?

And I do have air and several nail guns...

[Tony Bilello]

I noticed your small door frame photo in your original post. I do not own a shaper or have a heavy duty router table for style and rail bits. For doors that will take heavy abuse I use lapjoints. They are quick to make and very strong. Simple set-up with a dado blade and just inch your way up little at a time

http://sawmillcreek.org/album.php?albumid=139&pictureid=1376

[Tony Bilello]

I bought a Steel City 3Hp cabinet saw. I had been working with a $98 craftsman :eek:

What about you?

And I do have air and several nail guns...

You picked a great saw. I have a Delta Contractor Saw which I love. I had another one once before and lost it to Hurricane Katrina several years ago.
As for air nailers, I brad nail stuff to my workbench and my outfeed table quite often. They are great for jig making, nothing slips or slides out of place when you nail.
If you havent tried spraying finishes yet, give it a whirl. It's a whole different world spraying lacquer.

See what you did, now I want to go to my shop.
BYEEEEEEEEEEEE

[Ken Higginbotham]

Cool pics (and boat).