Bowl Questions

[Chris Tedford]

Hi all. So I've made some pens and those are fun. But I really want to start turning bowls. My local Woodcraft is having a sale this weekend and I'm planning on picking up either a Nova Precision Midi Chuck or a Nova G3. Any thoughts? I have a set of Delta turning tools at work, but I don't think it includes a bowl gouge. If I only had one bowl gouge what size would be the best for starting off? I also don't want to spend a ton on the gouge. Also, what makes a bowl gouge special?

Now for more questions. We have a 6" grinder, 3450rpm I believe. Would this be ok for sharpening if I bought some new wheels? And what kind of wheels?

I know that's a lot of questions, but the LOML has told me I can buy things, within reason, this Saturday at the sale and I want to get while the gettings good. :)

Thanks for your help.

Chris

[Kirk Miller]

Chris,
Congrats on the approval from the CFO. I don't know a bunch about chucks. I bought my lathe used and it came with a Oneway chuck and I am counting my blessings. I would suggest you do some hands on with the 2 different chucks you are looking into, as well as seeing what one might have the most Jaw options you could use. As far as a bowl gouge I would suggest a 1/2" or bigger, and possibly looking into one with a fingernail style grind. Mine is a 3/8 with more of a traditional grind and I wish I had gone bigger. I turn on a jet 1014 so lathe size shouldn't be too big of an issue in buying. That is my 10cents for what its work

Good luck and have fun turning.

Kirk

[Dennis Ford]

Chris;
I would start with a bowl gouge that is made from 1/2" rod, manufactors in England call this a 3/8" gouge and American manufactors call the same thing a 1/2" gouge. A bowl gouge has a much deeper flute than a spindle gouge and can be used further over the tool rest. Be sure to get a gouge that is made of high speed steel, carbon steel is easily softened while grinding and then will no longer hold an edge.

The grinder you have will work, would be better if you get a wheel made for grinding high speed steel. Don't spend more on the wheel than the grinder is worth! It is possible to grind a bowl gouge without a jig but it takes a lot of time to learn how to do this, consider getting a grinding jig.

I am not a big fan of chucks but use faceplates for bowls (most turners would not agree).

[Don Carter]

Chris:
You gonna love turning bowls! What kind of lathe do you have! See if you spread that "okay to buy" over more than one Saturday. ;)

What are you sharpening your tools on now?

I would suggest looking at the Penn State Industries bowl gouges. They are very reasonable and they work well.

All the best.

Don

[David Christopher]

Chris, if you are going to woodcraft check out the 1/2" pinnacle cryogenic bowl gouge. I have one and really like it. also if price is a concern the woodcraft chuck is a good one

[Bruce Shiverdecker]

If I can wade in here without touching any nerves, my suggestion is as follows

The Nova G3 is more versitle than the Midi. I have both.

1. A Sorby bowl gouge with an Irish/ Elsworth grind.

2. Get a 3/4" and a 1" half round Skew.

3. Keep your grinder for Yard tools, etc. and get a slow speed 8" grinder with Aluminum Oxide Wheels - White, Pink, or Blue. One at 80 grit and one at 120 grit or finer.

4. If you don't already own one, get a Wolverine Sharpening system with both the Skew attachment and the Verigrind Attachment. I cannot stress the necessity of "SHARP" tools in turning and especially in bowl turning.


Just my experience showing. BTW - Penn States tools ARE ok as starting tools especially while you learn to sharpen them, but if you want a tool for long run, stick to the better, more expensive ones.

Bruce

[Dave Halter]

Chris,
Woodcraft has their 8" slow speed grinder on sale for $85 and it comes with Aluminum Oxide wheels. I've got a Oneway Talon chuck and have been very happy with it. I just got a Stronghold, but I have not used it yet. If you do not have a grinding jig I would suggest one. I have the Wolverine system and like it. As far as gouges you may want to look at those made by Doug Thompson. I don't have any, but everyone here on the forum loves them.

Dave

[Ryan Baker]

Between the G3 and Midi chucks, i'd definitely recommend the G3. If nothing else, it will preserve your investment into the future.

Get a 1/2" bowl gouge and put a fingernail grind on it. The Sorby is good, but you can spend a lot less. The Doug Thompson gouges are considered the best by many, and are a good deal too. Lots of choices there. If you are looking for a budget choice at Woodcraft, take a look at the WoodRiver gouges. They work well and save some cash.

For the grinder, I would also suggest you consider getting the Woodcraft slow-speed grinder. You can get it for about the price you would spend on new wheels for your 6" grinder -- but you will also get the larger wheels and the slow speed which are both preferable for sharpening turning tools.

Definitely think hard about getting a Wolverine jig. It is worth every penny. If you have to save money, there are some alternatives, or you can make your own, but the Wolverine is the standard choice by far.

Have fun. There's always more stuff to buy.

[Bill Blasic]

Chris,
I prefer the Nova Precision Midi or the Nova Scroll Chuck for the mini/midi lathe as they have a dedicated 1" X 8 thread and I really find the tommy bars very easy to use. I recently purchased 2 more so I could free up my G3s for use on the DVR3000 and the 3520b. The Nova jaws are all interchangeable with all the chucks with the lone exception of the Titan Power Grip Jaws which only fit the Titan chuck meaning if you move to a bigger chuck you don't have to buy all new jaws.
Knowing what I know now if I were you I'd purchase a 1/2' V bowl gouge from Doug Thompson to start with, you will not find a better gouge for the money anywhere. These come unhandled but handles are easy to construct.
As far as the 6" grinder it will work but I prefer an 8" myself. The Norton 3X wheels in the K grade in 46 and 80 grit which do come in the 6" size. The difference is not only in the size (6" vs 8") but in the thickness. The 6" wheels are only 3/4" wide vs 1" wide for the 8", doesn't sound like much until you try swing your gouge thru the sharpening cycle, you will appreciate the extra 1/4". The 8" slow speed grinder from Woodcraft comes with a fair set of wheels but be sure you test it in the store as some folks have had them not run well and had to make a trip back, mine runs great.
The Wolverine system is great it makes sharpening quick and easy but if you cannot afford it and are handy there are plans out there to make your own Wolverine type system out of Plywood.
Buy the best you can afford now as it will save you from replacing that what you started with in the near future.

[Brian McDermaid]

I have the Nova Midi Chuck and love it.. I don't mind the bars at all (people told me i would hate them :)).

Buy the PSI 1/2" bowl gouge for $20 (http://www.pennstateind.com/store/LX220.html) and a Scraper (or two) (http://www.pennstateind.com/store/scrapers.html) and you'll still be under the price of the WoodCraft 'WoodRiver' 1/2" bowl gouge (http://www.woodcraft.com/product.aspx?ProductID=146174&FamilyID=5238). I lost about 1/2 inch of my bowl gouge learning to do a fingernail grind, im glad i did it on the PSI tool and not a $$$$ one :o.

You CAN use your grinder... but you WILL want nicer wheels and a slower speed someday (sooner rather then later). I've talked to people who use normal grinders on their turning tools and they seem happy (but they are also the crazy old guys at the lumber yard who think modern chucks are for sissy's and your not a real man unless you forge your own tools*)

You can build your own Sharpening Jig (http://aroundthewoods.com/sharpening01.html). After 3-4 attempts at building a fingernail grinding jig i broke down and bought the Wolverine veri-grind jig (http://www.woodcraft.com/product.aspx?ProductID=125677&FamilyID=1998).

Spend a good weekend learning to sharpen!!!

Find a good source for CHEAP WOOD!! I don't have any 'chop-your-own-turning-stock' resources around me... but i did find a local hardwood/lumber yard that has ~$5 domestic bowl blanks. Woodcraft blanks are $$$.

~Brian


* A big shout-out to those guys!! I turn 40 in a few months and its nice to go someplace and get called 'young fella' :D

[Gordon Thompson]

You can build your own Sharpening Jig (http://aroundthewoods.com/sharpening01.html). After 3-4 attempts at building a fingernail grinding jig i broke down and bought the Wolverine veri-grind jig (http://www.woodcraft.com/product.aspx?ProductID=125677&FamilyID=1998).

Spend a good weekend learning to sharpen!!!




ditto.......gonna wait for Saturday (sale) and go buy the wolverine stuff myself......freehanding just isn't doing it for me. :( maybe pop over at lunch today and see if they will give me the sale price today...hmmm

[Chris Tedford]

Thanks for all the advice guys. I'm definitely going to get the slow speed grinder/jig combo that Woodcraft sells, varigrind, and most likely the G3 chuck (may wait to decide until I get there).


A few other questions I thought of last night. My lathe is only a 12" (Delta 46-700 VS). Am I going to need something other than the chuck in order to finish the bottom of the bowl? Something I could make perhaps? Also, what's a good wood to start out on?

Last week I met the guy in charge of the grounds at the University I work at, and my boss told me they remove trees around campus every spring. My boss is really good friends with him, so I may have a source of wood, maybe.

Thanks again for your help.

Chris

[Thom Sturgill]

A few other questions I thought of last night. My lathe is only a 12" (Delta 46-700 VS). Am I going to need something other than the chuck in order to finish the bottom of the bowl? Something I could make perhaps? Also, what's a good wood to start out on?


There are three solutions (or more) to turning off the bottom.
1) a jam chuck - this is a piece of scrap wood held in the chuck, on a faceplate or whaterver and typically turned to match the shape of the interior of the bowl and covered with something soft (foam mat, mouse pad, etc). The tailstock is used to place light pressure on the base while turning.
2) Cole jaws, basically a large steel plate that was cut into four pieces that replace the jaws on the scroll chuck and use small buttons to old the edge of the bowl. The tail stock should also be used.
3) A vacuum chuck - by far the most expensive, but there are shortcuts and several threads on making one.

As to what wood, I like mahogany as a starter, but I will let others chime in on that. BTW I'll be at my local woodcraft Saturday too:D

[Jon McElwain]

A cheep way to turn bowl bottoms is to start the piece on a faceplate (you should be able to get one for less than $25) and turn the bottom first. Turn the base of the bowl to accept the dovetails on whatever chuck you end up with - check the jaw spread to be sure you size the base right. Hardwoods will not mar too bad, but be careful using this method with soft woods because you'll damage the base. Softwoods are better turned using Thom Sturgill's suggestions. If you use my suggestion, be sure to finish the bottom all the way because unless you've got cole jaws or a vacuum chuck, you won't be able to remount on the faceplate.

Also, you can go to the local lumber yard and most of them will cut off some maple, ash or hickory from their 2" stock lumber. You can create your own "blanks" from these and they are way cheep.

I'm all about the scrapers. They are cheep and when you get frustrated with the bowl gouge digging in, you can use a scraper to make the cut with less hassle. I usually end up using a scraper for some part of a bowl.

Good luck!

[Burt Alcantara]

Be aware that all Teknatool chucks will screw onto the spindle as you would expect. Righty Tighty, Lefty Loosey. But for some reason, to tighten the chuck itself it is BACKWARDS. I could never get used to it and bought Talons. I recently began using a Stronghold for everything. Nothing flies of the lathe anymore and once I lock in a tenon it stays there until I let it go. I currently have 3 chucks and plan to get another Stronghold. I will say that Teknatool makes a lot of very useful jaws. Whatever you end up with, have fun and kiss your money goodbye... Burt