Cutting a solid core door?

[John Shuk]

I just bought a solid core door to use as a bench top for a Shop Fox leg set I bought a few years ago. I was really planning on getting a 72" top on the bench but all the BORG had was an 80".
I'd really like to cut it down to approx. 72".

What can I expect when/if I cut it? Will there be a somewhat stable end inside there?
Thanks,
John

[Paul Grant]

If it's a solid core then there is probably an inch or two of wood around the perimiter, more around the latchset area and the rest is just solid particle board.....cut away.

[keith ouellette]

most solid core doors are mostly particle board. The solid wood is only at the perimeter and the ones I have dealt with (I just installed a whole house of them) had particle right where the door knobs went. If I remember correctly the entire core I cut out for the knob was particle board so the wood would have been about 2 inches.

I doubt the top and bottom would be much different so if you want to go from 80 to 72 you would be getting particle board edge.

[John Bush]

I used one for my bench and it was dense particle board. I laminated one side with 1/4" hardboard/Masonite, cut for width on the TS and length with clamped straight edge and circular saw. I built a maple frame to support an end vise and holes for dogs and a conventional wood side vice. This covers the particle board edges and it looks like an official WW bench. Been going strong for 17+ years.

[Jim Heffner]

John, as others have said, the center area should be a particle board core in that door. I have a solid core door as the top of my work bench...it is really stable, flat and can take a hard pounding if needed with no problems ...ever! Best thing is this....it was cheap and easily replaced if needed.

[David DeCristoforo]

Calling what's inside a "solid core" door "particle board" is really misleading. It's really just relatively loosely compacted chips and fiber. Whenever I have had to cut them down, i have found it best to dig out some of the "filling" and insert another wood band between the exterior "skins". I always glue and clamp the skins to the new wood band. Gluing anything to the core is "iffy" because the exposed edge of the core material offers little gluing surface and I have been able to literally pull off any pieces glued to it. They come off with bits of wood chips stuck to them. And the core has virtually no ability to hold fasteners.

[Stephen Edwards]

Agreed with David on the filler of these so called solid core doors nowdays, at least the ones sold around here. The filler on one that I did recently isn't particle board. It was some kind of weird compressed grey fibers. It was a real pain to get that stuff out in order to insert another piece of wood at the cutoff.

You can still get solid core doors with real wood inside. They have a special term for that type of solid core. Sorry, the term escapes me now.

[Bill Petersen]

Agreed with David on the filler of these so called solid core doors nowdays, at least the ones sold around here. The filler on one that I did recently isn't particle board. It was some kind of weird compressed grey fibers. It was a real pain to get that stuff out in order to insert another piece of wood at the cutoff.

You can still get solid core doors with real wood inside. They have a special term for that type of solid core. Sorry, the term escapes me now.

I think the proper term is "very expensive".

Bill

[Rick Fisher]

Bang on..

Its not a bad idea to cap the end even if it is Particle board. Especially in a higher humidity area.

[John Shuk]

Thanks guys. I'm kind of torn with using the door or not. This is really going to be an all around bench and I just need a surface. But I would rather use a butcher block. Which If I feel ambitous I can add someday down the road.

[Craig Reynolds]

Agreed with David on the filler of these so called solid core doors nowdays, at least the ones sold around here. The filler on one that I did recently isn't particle board. It was some kind of weird compressed grey fibers. It was a real pain to get that stuff out in order to insert another piece of wood at the cutoff.

You can still get solid core doors with real wood inside. They have a special term for that type of solid core. Sorry, the term escapes me now.


Stave Core is probaly what you're thinking of.

The grey stuff was probaly what some manufacturers are calling semi-solid or safe-and-sound. The theory is it still has some of the solid and sound proofing properties, but with half the weight.

If one is cutting down a "solid core" door, clean out the core material as David described, then use the cutoff piece to reblock the door. You will need to clean off the skins, but the piece should fit back in well.

[Prashun Patel]

I've been using a hollowcore door topped with 1/4" hardboard as an assembly table and general bench. Works perfectly fine. Doesn't warp.

Ditto, though, on advising you don't try to mount anything to it.

[Mike McCann]

If you want the 72" door just have them order it for you. It does not cost extra.