wood for finials

[Harvey M. Taylor]

what are some favoritwe woods to make finials out of? Dont like red oak. will be lacquered for a finish.Max

[Steve Schlumpf]

Harvey - I have only used what local hardwoods I have on hand - cherry and maple. I do have some walnut (thanks to my BIL) and may give that a try some time in the future.

[Ken Glass]

Harvey,
I have been using dry Walnut and sanding to 400 grit. I have been using Minwax Ebony stain to Ebonize the finials sometimes using two coats of stain. I then use a Rattle can Satin Laquer with 3-4 coats to get a good finish. It is said that walnut grain is close to an Ebony grain look. I am not sure about that, because I have yet to purchase any Ebony because of the cost. I also hear African Black Wood works well too.

[Belton Garvin]

Finials need a really straight and tight grain if you are going to make them thin. I have had really good luck with Mopani, Mora, Redheart, Pink Ivory, and Maple. I have also tried Walnut, Oak, and Mahogany...but didn't have much luck with them. I actually finished a couple Walnut but had them break after being bumped. I Tried a couple burl with no success at all.

[ROY DICK]

http://www.google.com/search?q=FINIALS&sitesearch=www.sawmillcreek.org.

A lot of information here. Do you want an ebonized finial?

Roy

[Jack Mincey]

Osage Orange, Dogwood, and Persimmon are good domestic woods. The only exotic's I've tried are cocobolo, and Ibe which was left over from some outdoor benches I made. They all work will depending on what color you are looking for. The exotic's don't need anything more than buffing for a finish.
Jack

[Dean Thomas]

So many of my answers start out as questions.:p

What sort of finials are we talking about here, Max?

Finials come in all shapes, styles, and sizes. The finials on my curtain rods can be out of most any wood imaginable. More shape and texture than design. The finials on my newels are also pretty chunky. What about the ones on a poster bed?

Are you talking about a 1/4" round ball on a disk for the underside of a birdhouse ornament? Are you talking a slender 2" tall finial that starts out at 3/8" and skinnies down to 1/16" and then has a bump on the top, a la Cindy Drozda? Rosand's multi-teardrop finials on his ornaments?

If you have a project that is going to be handled or jostled and the idea is to have skinny, delicate, elegant stuff, you need some muscle, too. Any of the ebony family, African kingwood has been recommended to me, most rosewoods, maple, boxwood, and some other non-porous woods should work well and stand up to modest contact. Want to use other woods? Make your finials less delicate!

So much depends on the application and your color and finish hopes. Lignum would work, but ah, the color. Padauk works for me for stubby, substantial finials like the ball on a disk under a birdhouse. It can be really delicate if you've not got straight grain. DAMHIKT.

[Bernie Weishapl]

I use most any wood but mainly walnut, maple, cherry, osage orange, rosewood, paduck, etc.

[Curt Fuller]

One of the best woods for holding fine detail in small finials is African Blackwood. It's a little pricey but the color and texture of the wood compliment any other wood you put it next to.

[Harvey M. Taylor]

Hi Dean,
I was thinking primarily of finials for boxes, small bowls, that sort of thing. Sorry for not being more specific.Max

[Steve Trauthwein]

I have been practicing making some finials lately and just grabbing whatever pen stock I had that I wasn't going to use for pens. Burls definitely to not work. One wood that surprised me was mahogany, I turned a 2" finial from it where the center was just under an 1/8" and after I parted it off and was appraising my effort I noticed a worm hole in the center of the piece that was just over 1/32" (measurements just taken).

As far as standing up under abuse I don't know, but it is great practice material. I have also used walnut, maple, cherry, grapefruit and myrtle. Good luck!

Regards, Steve

[Wyatt Holm]

For finials, I would use very hard dense woods such as African Blackwood, Holly, Boxwood and Manzanita. They would work best in my mind.

[Allen Neighbors]

Ebony, Cocobolo, Bois d'Arc, Hard Maple, Dogwood, Chinaberry, Rosewood, Hornbeam.....

[Dean Thomas]

Such a great topic. Thanks, Max!!

Question especially for those in Texas and Oklahoma: What about mesquite? The stuff found in Texas & Oklahoma, not South America.

Question #2, what about the wood known as "Texas Ebony"?

Those of y'all who know these two woods, tell us what you think.

[Brian Brown]

SWMBO just made her first finial out of yellowheart. It turned well, and looks great.

[Harvey M. Taylor]

Dean, just havent gotten around to mesquite. Have plenty on hand, though. Tried turning Texas ebony. Definitely 5 sack concrete. Thanks for reminding me of mesquite. Just ordered Cindy"s dvd on finials, and Allen Batty's on the skew. Am in a pitched battle with learning to use the skew at all costs since I have 4 of the things.Later, Max.

[Allen Neighbors]

I've never tried Mesquite for a finial, so I can't give any sensible comment about it. I think it might be a little grainy for a finial, but ...

[Dean Thomas]

Dean, just havent gotten around to mesquite. Have plenty on hand, though. Tried turning Texas ebony. Definitely 5 sack concrete. Thanks for reminding me of mesquite. Just ordered Cindy's dvd on finials, and Allen Batty's on the skew. Am in a pitched battle with learning to use the skew at all costs since I have 4 of the things.Later, Max.
I don't understand the 5 sack of concrete comment. :confused:

And the pitched battle? I do understand. I just wrote someone on SMC about skew skills (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showpost.php?p=1060153&postcount=14) that might help you. Also, get hold of one of your fellow Texas Turners for some guidance. The biggest deal is that you really have to be intentional about skew usage. With a gouge, if you relax a little, the gouge will just keep cutting. The skew will IMMEDIATLEY back up! Not a pretty site, that spiral with a clunk at the end.

[Harvey M. Taylor]

Dean, normally concrete is made with 4 sacks of concrete with water, sand and aggregate mixed. For stronger or harder use like tilt-wall panels and main thoroughfares they go to 5 sack concrete. I was implying that wood is extra hard. Will try not to confuse you in the future, ha, Max

[Dean Thomas]

AHA!!! Thanks for the promise not to confuse me any more. Doesn't take much, and it lasts way too long.

Appreciate the info on the concrete, too.