zero clearance table saw insert & dust

[Mike Sandman]

I have a Jet Deluxe Xacta table saw. The saw is connected to a 1-1/2 HP Delta dust collector. With the stock blade insert, dust collection on the saw was quite good, probably because the slot was so wide that the dust collector could pull down almost all the sawdust. Then I installed a zero clearance insert. The zero clearance insert has a much narrower slot, of course.

This isn't a problem in some cutting situations, but when I'm using the saw to cut a thin slice off of a board (for example, to get a good glue surface), or when I'm cutting a soft wood, the blade throws a lot more dust up and forward that it used to.

I dropped a collection hose and hood down from above to about a foot above the blade, but it doesn't do much good. A lot of the dust is thrown forward, not up. If I drop the hood to where it can collect material that's thrown forward it will block my view. I've seen the Lexan "Shark" guard and there's a Shark model for my saw, but any other suggestions would be appreciated. The Jet's guard is quite easy to mount and dismount and apart from the expense of the Shark, I don't want to give up the flexibility of the Jet guard.

Thanks - Mike

[Paul Demetropoulos]

Mike,

I drill a 3/4" hole at the front of the saw kerf on my zero clearance inserts and it gets a lot of the dust off the blade. I ease the edge of the hole so that stock won't hang up on it. I've got pretty strong dc on the saw cabinet. You might try drilling a series of holes in the insert.

[Jacob Szajkowski]

Mike,

My experience has been that if I keep the blade to maximum height the cut angle in the kerf where the blade meets wood will be steeper and take more dust down rather than out toward to operator.

Jake

[Steve Rozmiarek]

Mike, I have never seen a foolproof way to collect all the dust from edge cuts. Best approach I have seen is lots of airflow across the blade in the cabinet, and an overhead shield with its own dust collection mounted on a riving knife, like what some of the Euro saws use, but even those don't get it all.

Like this:

http://www.minimax-usa.com/components/com_virtuemart/shop_image/product/resized/Tecnomax_ST_4_El_47fcf78a604f2_300x400.jpg (http://www.minimax-usa.com/components/com_virtuemart/shop_image/product/Tecnomax_ST_4_El_47fcf78a763f4.jpg)

http://www.minimax-usa.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage_bs.tpl&product_id=31&category_id=13&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=35

I think the Shark guard is the same principal, but not sure on that.

[Alan Schaffter]

I use this blade shroud. The bristles are 4" long and contour over stock and miter gauge. Doesn't work with big odd shapes, but works pretty well. This set of bristles is a little stiff. I have a thinner set I got from McMaster-Carr that I will install someday.

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/1403/medium/PB050012.JPG

It also folds out of the way. There is a hidden rare earth magnet and a proximity switch in the hinged sections so when it is folded up, the auto gate (I built electro-pneumatic blast gates) stays closed.

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/1403/medium/PB050013.JPG

[John Thompson]

Mike,

My experience has been that if I keep the blade to maximum height the cut angle in the kerf where the blade meets wood will be steeper and take more dust down rather than out toward to operator.

Jake

Yep.. it increased the downward angle of the front severing teeth to raise it which in turn will carry more saw-dust down with the gullet.

Sarge..

[Paul Demetropoulos]

I use this blade shroud. The bristles are 4" long and contour over stock and miter gauge. Doesn't work with big odd shapes, but works pretty well. This set of bristles is a little stiff. I have a thinner set I got from McMaster-Carr that I will install someday.

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/1403/medium/PB050012.JPG

It also folds out of the way. There is a hidden rare earth magnet and a proximity switch in the hinged sections so when it is folded up, the auto gate (I built electro-pneumatic blast gates) stays closed.

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/1403/medium/PB050013.JPG
Wow, I've never seen anything like that. I guess you get used to not seeing the blade? Do you line up cuts on a miter guage extension or set up the cut then drop that thing down?

[Mike Cutler]

Alan

That is an incredible alternative! I use a JessEm Mast-R-Slide and that brush would solve the problem of having to raise my DC pick up high to clear the JessEm fence. I hope you don't mind if folks copy it.
Cool.:cool:

PS. You have a very nice shop from the pics.

[Mike Sandman]

Impressive. I hung a flexible hose from the rafters, but the hinged tube is a great idea. The idea of not being able to see the cut makes be a bit concerned, but of course you (or at least I) really use feel to control the action once the cut is set up.

Thanks - and also thanks for the suggestions from other posters.

Mike